herbiemercman

Hi Masterfett, The "RS" badge was a pre NA/T thing to make people think it was a fast car, and now it is, that's what's going on. Your black car has a fantastic finish, is it resprayed and is it the original Toyota black? Hi DavidP, Who is Ed? and what is the favourite?

Hi Guys, Just thought i would post a couple of pics of my leather seats which now completes my four months quest on my NA/T project, these were hard fiddly work, but well worth it, they look great and when you enter the cockpit it smells like a new car, the quality of the leather is superb. The NA/T project has covered 4 months and ended at circa £4K, well worth it, the most important bit is the performance, i feel the same buzz as having a new car. The basic conversion was £3K, the extra £1K was down to me changing the clutch, fitting a thermostatic oil cooler, changing the coolant to 4life, changing the engine oil to Fucks fully synth, changing the turbo jacket from fibre glass to titanium weave, fitting three aluminium coated ceramic heat baffles and securing the boost pipes away from the bodywork to stop vibrations, and last but not least, fitting new seats. There were frustrations along the way but i learned a lot and most importantly from members of this club. I have posted as much on the subject as i could to help others who undertake this quest. Finally i want to say that the experience and knowledge and mapping etc carried out by the NA/T man was very good and the support i received following completion. Herbie. BEST.PIC.SEATS..jpg (200.7 KB) BEST.PIC.#2..SEATS..jpg (196.5 KB)

There are a few Enlish people still here, some suffering from whiplash scams.lol.

Thanks Chris, can you move to Preston.

Hi Chris, Clutch works ok is it normal to have a slight vibration as I described? Herbie.

Hi Abz, I had never heard of a DMF (dual mass flywheel) before, but this seems a great tool, my car never had one pre the NA/T conversion? are you saying that the extra power i now enjoy can cause vibration due to the stage 2 clutch i have? Herbie. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dual_mass_flywheel

Hi Guys, The engine mounts are ok, not sure as yet on the gearbox mounts, but i sorted the boost pipe fouling and put some high density foam pads between all contact points, this has reduced the worst of the vibration noise, i still have the vibration on the clutch pedal, its not noisy just does not feel right. I will live with this for a while and keep investigating what could cause this, the clutch operates fine just the bit of a judder, but nothing like the mega juddering with the stage 4 competition clutch. Herbie.

Thanks for comments guys, Scooter, Style, Shane, and Swampy, My throttle cable passes through an ali heat baffle which sits between the very hot down pipe so this is a place to look. I will observe the engine mounts as suggested, these and the gearbox mounts are the key suspect IMHO. The exhaust is ok well clear of any bodywork. The boost pipes are touching the holes in the chassis and also fouling the front fender, need to look at this? It's just that the vibration is so powerful that i must be looking for an engine mounting or gearbox mounting, the other items of concern would be noisy, but not producing such a solid deep vibration, to make the foot pedals vibrate, when you get up to speed in top gear it is fine, starting off in first and second gear seems to bring it on the most? Herbie.

Hi Guys, Has anyone had a situation where the vibration from the engine is getting onto the body of the car, the most noticeable bit is the clutch pedal and foot brake pedal are a bit like a high frequency foot massage, sort of tingling. The bulkhead seems to be where the main cross feed vibration from the engine is coming from. This condition is post my recent NA/T conversion, i did not notice it as much as i am doing currently as at the begining i was fighting a stage 4 clutch which was shuddering the car to bits, the past few weeks i am running a stage 2 clutch with almost stock smoothness, the clutch was changed by my local garage and it was post this that i started to notice the vibration problems. I cannot see what could have caused this as just dropping the gearbox etc is straight forward, is there any points where the gearbox etc can foul the bodywork? Could the engine mountings be getting tired or have been damaged with the juddering of the stage 4 clutch? I have eliminated all the obvious bits that touch the bodywork like baffles, boost pipes, waste gate dump pipe, down pipe etc. Any help will be much appreciated. Herbie.

I decided to take another look at the down pipe and removed all the baffles etc, i discovered that the waste gate dump pipe clamp was lose and had allowed the pipe to foul the chassis, readjusted this and all ok, well pleased and it has saved me a visit to my local garage. Herbie.

Hi Guys, I thought i was home and dry with my post NA/T conversion, but not just yet, all be it i am fairly sure the current problem is not related to this. As many of you are aware i changed the clutch from a stage 4 to a stage 2, which is great, however since this was carried out by my local garage, who are very capable and skilled etc, i have been experiencing a very loud vibration on the bodywork, like some thing on the gearbox or engine or exhaust is 75% of the time touching the bodywork, i can even feel the vibration in the foot pedals and all the dash etc is sort of vibrating, it's a sort of high frequency droan. Have any of you had an experience like this? also what parts of the flywheel housing and gearbox, including the gear change assembly could cause this situation? Everything on the engine, like boost pipes, baffles, exhaust system, etc has been eliminated. Any help will be much appreciated as this is a bad problem. Herbie.

Great to see "True Brits" doing stuff like this, they look good, the OEM ones are mega expensive and will never be manufactured for low volume mk4 supras, you could end up on "Dragon's Den" and if they don't like your idea, you can tell them all to f--k off on air. lol.

Thanks supra matt i will order one. tooquick, i know the location is a compromise as i tried to explain in my post, however the performance is great and as i said the air mass at that location must be plenty, oil temp now at 90.C at all speeds etc, the side vents are a little restricted and not much room for a large element, quite a lot in the states are located at the front where mine is, the real improvement is having a quality , thermostat controlled oil cooler fitted, not too arsed about the small occlusion on the FMIC. Herbie.

Another thing i noticed when gaining access to the down pipe to turbo clamp joint, which was loose, is that the jacket fitted to the turbo exhaust turbine has started to decay into a white powder, and when my boost pipe blew off at the main air intake on the throttle body, just above the turbo, i could have sucked in the debris, do all these jackets do this or have i got a faulty one or a cheapo? Herbie.

Thanks guys good tips there and i posted with pics my oil cooler job few days back in "supra chat". Title NA/T Epilogue. Herbie.

Yep a superb motor for not a lot of money, if i did not have one myself i would be on this like a fish eagle on a nice trout. Herbie.

I think steve..b is on it, good guy to have on the club. I had this problem and changing the delimiter / KPH to MPH unit resolved it. We are all lucky the old Supras are relatively speaking, "old tech", I also think a good "mapper" is not common and so important to optimmise performance. I was involved in FMEA (failure mode effect analysis) and we always saw fault codes as a guide, in that they sort of point you to a certain area of the control system, but 90% of the time you end up changing bits until the actual fault is isolated. The problem being you may not have the bits and may not know if they are not faulty, it can be a "mine field" even for the professionals. This club is good as it can bring out many member's experiences where 90% of he time the fault becomes well established. Good luck anyway, these are really frustrating faults, i have had my share. Herbie.

The car can't be the one in the photos in "view my supra" ? that motor is superb, however if some one has the dosh and a facility even if the car you describe is in poor health it must be well worth £5K. You need to quote the mileage and some pics, and describe the level of rusting etc, if i did not have a corker i would be interested as a project. Herbie.

Hi Jake, Can you PM them to me please. Herbie.

Hi Dudes, Just thought i would share this with you as it's a first for me, i was driving quite quick up a longish hill in third gear and the car was pulling well, suddenly there was a loud noise, bit like an elephant farting, and 50% of the power disappeared, and the exhaust note was dramatically different, my first thought was some thing dior has happened? so i slowed down and started thinking, what can this be, i then looked at the boost gauge and realised what must have happened. It felt like i had gone back to my NA days or even less, i pulled over and yes the boost pipe had parted company with the throttle body. When i got home i could see that the pipe and throttle body were greasy, probably to ease the pipe on which is quite a tight fit, so i degreased both and reconnected. The good news for me was realising how much extra performance comes from the turbo set up, hard to believe it took me 17 years to go NA/T. BAFF.CERAMIC.COMP.#3.jpg (191.9 KB)

Price drop, now £25 posted.

Just fitted the oil cooler kit it was a "Mocal" well engineered, quality stainless steel braded piping and a well designed sandwich plate with thermostat, it cost £208, inc. vat and del. The plan was to fit it in the near side aperture but the element was too wide, also doing the job with the wheel off and the wheel arch liner removed is a no no, unless you are a dwarf, so the front fender headlights etc had to come off. You can see from the pics that i mounted the element on the far left of the main air intake aperture, well secured to the aluminium beam. The amount of occlusion to the inter cooler is minimal as when you get over 30 mph the air flow at the main aperture is massive and better than the small apertures at the sides of the front fender. The oil temperature now gets to 90 deg. C at all speeds, and just stays there. I now have two sandwich plates fitted, the original which carries the turbo oil feed and the oil temp sensor, the second plate carries the oil cooler thermostat and feed pipes to the element, a lot of potential here for leaks, so particular attention was applied and well tested prior to reassembling the car bits. The original sandwich plate had some oil leaks on the fittings and the oil was blown with the air flow onto the clutch bell housing and due to the dry non seal and the vent it could have contaminated the clutch, thankfully it did not get that far with only 300 miles on the clock from the NA/T job being completed. The fully synth oil was put in"Fukes Titan" £55, also the boost pipes were secured and where the pipes passed through the bodywork rubber grommets fitted to stop some vibration i had, also the waste gate dump pipe clamp was loose and vibrating so this was tightened, what a relief at first i thought it was the turbo blades coming loose, it was quite a loud rattle.Just have one more rattle to locate, i think it is the joint clamp where the down pipe meets the turbo? need to remove the insulation jacket and some heat baffles to get at it. Overall i am well pleased with the outcome, no pain, no gain etc. herbiemercman. 20151127_145039.jpg (183.7 KB) 20151127_143309.jpg (179.6 KB) 20151127_145008.jpg (183.5 KB)

Forgot to mention the headrests, first thing to note is you have to actually shear the three plastic retainers which surround the but ends where the headrests enter the back of the seat, you discard these as they shear and cannot be reused. You use three tiny cable ties to replace the plastic retainers, also you have to carefully run a Marley knife along the rear sewn joint to cut the stitches, the cover can then be peeled off, bit like skinning a rabbit. When you fit your new cover place a plastic bag over the headrest, this allows the cover to slip on easy and you just trim the bag before closing the cover off, to close the cover off you can use the tiny cable ties or use waxed cotton thread to replace the lower stitching, all this is completely hidden when the headrests are mounted on the seats. If you are replacing your covers with a cloth or leatherette, this process is much easier as these materials have a lot of stretch, BUT with leather i had to use cable ties to pull the joint at the bottom together, it is impossible to close the plastic zip and they burst open when the leather is in full stretch, the ties look fine and are hidden when the headrest is mounted on the seat. The photo shows the underside of the headrest where you cut the sewn joint line and also show the original plastic retainers. 20151122_142554.jpg (177.9 KB)

Ok Kevin, You,ve got some mint "stock" seat covers.

Hi listy, Stock items are getting hard to find now and i am sure some member is out there who would like to renew his seats for little money, the cars are now nearly 20 years old, so there must be members who want to maintain stock parts and their seats are well worn. I saw the complete seats for sale you sited and the cost was a joke, sort of a give away IMHO, i also saw a complete engine for £250, another steal, but seen others at 3 times that, if some members want rid of some thing quickly, then fair does. My covers are a bargain for the right member.