herbiemercman

Thanks for comments guys, Hitbox, why are you getting rid of your oil cooler?, if it is thermostat controlled you cover all situations to keep your oil at optimum running temp.

Hi Guys, I am nearing the end of my journey now, post my NA/T experience. I reflect on what Chris Wilson said, "you cannot expect such a major change to an old car to progress without some issues", he was right, but i only had two issues which i have more than posted on, the agresive clutch and hot oil temps. THE CLUTCH. The clutch was changed yesterday for a stage 2 organic with 80% more torque than stock, as "it said on the tin", the drive quality is like stock, mega pleased but £275 towards the "learning curve fund", based on original stage 4 clutch fitted £450, new stage 2 fitted £500, so total £950, then stage 4 sold for £225 = £725 spent. If you now remove the £450 for the original Stag 4 NA/T clutch, which i had to have, the net cost is a loss of £275, for the learning curve fund. Not bad IMHO, also i was ignorant about clutches at the time. OIL TEMPERATURE. Basically i was advised that the oil temp should not go above the 100 deg.C mark. On my first m/way journey the temp was 135deg.C at times and never less that 115 deg.C. The original diagnosis was the poss of a faulty gauge, this was eliminated as although the first readings on a 9 deg.C day were circa 100 deg.C,it was a false dawn, they have since been up in the 120's again, so an oil cooler is being fitted next week, with thermostat. More or less as most members recommended, like scooter said, why play on the edge of the situation, get rid of the problem and fit a F---ing oil cooler, another £285 for the learning curve fund., total now £505. Anyway overall i have no regrets at all and my car is superb, no pain no gain etc, and i thank everyone who have given me so much help and advice. herbiemercman.

Ok.

Hi Gaz, Yeh you are probably right, i just would not sell some thing that was faulty, i do see some postings where items for sale are stated to be faulty, it was just alien to me. I was a tad defensive with experience from previous postings and banter.

Hi walker, If you have seen my previous postings you will obviously know just the oil temp gauge was in question, thought to be reading too high, however the much more expensive gauge that my NA/T man provided, is reading only 10 deg.C lower and as it was on a much colder day, then i realised that the gauge is ok, that is why i am fitting a thermostatic oil cooler. The boost gauge is not involved. They look good and are a bargain, and tested. Just out of interest why did you ask ? presumably because you saw my earlier postings ? Are you interested in buying them ? I would not put up for sale some thing that was faulty. ! ! Just do not want to bin them.

Hi Guys, Here are two gauges just 5 weeks old. £35.the pair, including delivery UK mainland. All bits included, pressure pipe, "T" piece, oil temp sender, nuts and lock washers, instructions, just the small metal brackets are missing. very easy to knock some up. GAUGES FRONT ..jpg (188.1 KB) GAUGES REAR..jpg (192.7 KB)

Hi an thats great let me know date and time you are passing here ? Ian.

Ok goldenvtr, Yes it's a w58 box, Sold to you now, being removed Thursday, will pack it up in original box this Friday, standard postage, further details in my reply to your PM. Many thanks, you got a bargain. Herbie.

11752446_1633803116879835_6567921989803042896_n.jpg (115.4 KB)Hi Everyone, I have a stage 4 competition clutch complete as new, only covered 300 miles, mostly motorway. It cost new few weeks back £350, will accept £225. delivered Uk Mainland only. 20151110_151843.jpg (197.0 KB) 20151110_151843.jpg (197.0 KB) 11959968_1633803153546498_8972462833950201120_n.jpg (100.9 KB)

Hi Josh, Many thanks for your prompt reply, I just contacted the technical engineer at Conceptua and he has been to the States etc and been involved with many UK users of their street and competition clutches. He states that the clutch i have received, part no : 16085-2100, gives 80% more grip than the stock clutches, 400 BHP ok and 420 torque, and most important to me a stock feel on drive ability. He guarantees this and has sold dozens of them, without any problems of slipping etc. I appreciate your help and TB developments said the exact one you had may no longer be available, he has not come back to me, 9 days ago. I will keep you posted and i am confident it is ok. Stage.2.Clutch.Spec..jpg (194.3 KB)

Hi Josh, I tried TBdevelopments but he did not come back to me, mad busy like my NA/T man, so went to e-bay, company is Conceptua in Devon. The clutch in the link is exactly the one i have just ordered but for the mk4 Supra, just a different spline boss to the one in the link which was for the 180SX Nisan. This is the RPS Max Stage 2 clutch with street disc, like you had. They say in their fitting insructions to make sure you put the friction disc in the right way round, BUT don't tell you which is the right way round ! ! http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RPS13-180SX-SR20DET-Redtop-Stage-2-Uprated-Competition-Clutch-Kit-Conceptua-/151756358363?_trksid=p2141725.m3641.l6368

Hi Guys, From experience with changing a clutch the friction plate has had "flywheel side" stamped on it, there are many stories where people have got it the wrong way round and clutch problems. I am about to change my stage 4 metalic 6 puck for a stage 2 RPS. 6 puck organic street one, and there is no indication about which way it should be fitted. Does anyone know ? see pics, is it side #1, or side.#2 ? which goes against the flywheel. side#1 LHS pic, side #2.RHS pic. Also is there a special grease for the shaft and splines? Many thanks for any help. SIDE.#1..jpg (179.0 KB) SIDE.#2..jpg (174.2 KB)

Try what Chris Wilson said, i had a similar problem on my mk4 it is a manual box, what was happening was the rear rubber flexi brake lines had delaminated inside and this holds the rear brakes on as the loose rubber acts like a non return valve. The MOT will not pick this up if the brakes are reaching the minimum readings on braking.

When you are sorted with the replacement bits you must get the car warm and high pressure fill all enclosures with "Waxoil". I did this 19 years back on my car and i have no rust at all. "Waxoil" will also arrest any existing rust. The only rust failure i had was a power steering oil pipe which was perfect either side of the rubber clamp, but inside the clamp it had held water and the pipe corroded through, had to make a pipe with 10mm copper pipe, no spares available. Godd luck with it. herbiemercman.

Hi Guys, my leather seat covers just arrived, they are superb quality, thick soft leather and quality stitching etc, they have been well worth waiting for, the delivery was originally quoted as 10 days but it has been 30 days. The carrier was DHL and i paid the import duty on line £27. The work is done in Pakistan and the agent Mahmood is in USA, he was reliable and good comunication etc, just as evinX stated. I did have concerns the address is a top floor flat in USA and the payment link was weird, and after 10 days Mahmood the agent told me there was a delay as they ran out of black leather, i envisaged having to make a claim with Pay-pal, it was other members in this club who put my concers at rest and i was greatful to them. I will post some pics when they are fitted.

I am looking forward to my stage 2 organic, my mistake has cost me £500, the stage 4 metalic clutches are a joke IMHO, at first i thought i would learn to live with it, but unless you are on a track or drag racing, you would even go auto or accept a slight slipping at full torque. The power delivery on my car is fantastic and i have now sorted my oil temp issue, and fitting a thermostatic oil cooler, and fully synth oil, but the clutch is hard to see how anyone would tolerate it for street use. It is terrible to drive and in traffic can be dangerous as you try to keep the thing going without having to stop and start off again, and you are recking your w58 box, mega bucks to repair, for me it is a no brainer. The people who jump in with ignorance get cained. Ouch.! ! !

Hi ashloys, I am an all time "manual" man, the reasons for this are well known by most manual boys, sports cars have to be manual, and you have to drive them. However i am changing my F1 Stage 4 metalic competition clutch for an RPS Max stage 2 organic Street clutch. There are two reasons why i am doing this, first and foremost the driveability, the stage 4 judders the car badly when it warms up and knocks hell out of the power train, esp the gearbox, also the actual gear changes get rough and my box has only covered 42,000 miles. Another member has the stage 2 organic box and he has covered 6k miles, with stock smooth operation and no clutch slipping at 400 bhp and 450 lbs/ft torque. You may be prepared to go with the harsh clutch, but i am just giving you my experience. I would like to know how you get on with yours if you could PM me. herbiemercman.

Hi eviX, My leather seat covers arrive next monday from same supplier, i know you have done the same job and they look great, they look hard work and lots of fiddling etc, but this will keep me out of the rain before xmas. My brother just had his front seats recovered in leather on his Toyota Amazon by a local pro, it cost him £1,300 inc.vat, drive in, drive out, so if you are strapped for cash and you have the desire and skills to do the job, then you will be made up, you went balls out on your doors but i am sure they will shrink back, and as some other members have stated, people do not look at every little bit of the door, they just see it as part of the interior, not like a picture of just a door almost magnified. I'm off to buy a big bag of cable ties now. Good luck. herbiemercman.

Hi Josh, I have PM'D you suggesting we end this thread as i have completed my technical story and most members have found it interesting, you are long in the tooth on this club so you can see when things start getting into banter, i can cope with it as i was banned for starting threatening some people etc in the past, and as i value the tech info and sensible members i get help from i can put up with the hyjackers, so it's up to you, if you think the thread has run its course then end it. I will be starting a new dramatised thread when my leather seat covers arrive from USA. Cheers, and thanks for clutch info, i have ordered one like yours.

Hi Chris, I take on board what you are saying and this ties in with what my guy told me, however i like back up for the times it is a very hot day etc and i am really giving it some, so i will be fitting the oil cooler with the thermostatic sandwitch plate. Am i right in thinking i can retain the current sandwitch plate which has the turbo oil feed and temp sensor and fit the new plate below it with a bolt extension which retains the filter?

Hi ashloys, The clutch issue and the oil cooler issue has come from other members and i am chuffed with that, my NA/T man is very good, not just my opinion, but like Chris Wilson , who you may not know yet, as you have only been a member for a short time, all the different opinions are taken on board, have another read of the thread and you will see what i mean.

Hi lewysdanny and bignum, The hyjacking comes with the territory in this club and i just try to appeal to members who are interested in the supra cars and the technical issues. The reference to Eastenders is ok, my 9 year old son watches it and i cannot get him interested in cars, but he may grow out of it. In the past i got banned from this club for "picking up the bait", so this is another reason i work on diplomatics not the other stuff. The "other member" you refer to, does not take prisoners i know, and is like me, but he knows his stuff and helps a lot of people in this club. The mods don't seem to spot the hyjacking and if you have been in the club for many years and the technical issues become worn out, then a bit of banter is understandable.

Hi tooquick, The oil temp is 90 deg. C normal driving and was 115 deg.C today on a 10 mile very hard drive, so i am at least 15 C below the readings on the previous gauge, which was a cheapo. If you take into account the location of the sender, at the oil filter and not in the sump, then i think all ok. However as i said an oil cooler will be fitted soon as i am a belt and brasses man.

Hi Harley and trebor, I just post the way it is and he is broad shoulder enough to take it, overall i am made up with the whole thing, but as Chris Wilson pointed out this kind of conversion and especially mine with a different exhaust etc wanted some sorting out and he did it. The oil temp was some think he wanted to get to the bottom of and after fitting the new better quality gauge he sent me the oil temp has come down some 15 deg, so all ok, however i will be fitting an oil cooler kit which he is sending me. He is a reliable experienced guy, which i have said many times. If you have any comments which are not technical you can PM me. Thanks for your comments.

Hi Hitbox, Yeh i agree and will sort this soon, got to change the oil temp and boost gauges for the higher quality ones and then the leather seat covers, which i am expecting this coming week, i will be relieved when they the leather seat covers eventually arrive, as it has been 5 weeks, the stuff from the USA seem to be good value, but delivery time and import duty is some thing to consider.