herbiemercman

Hi Everyone, Pair of stock rear lights, pre - facelift in very good condition. Complete with full loom and socket and bulbs. £65, including postage , UK mainland only. Herbie. STK.REAR.LTS..jpg (199.6 KB)

I just had the NA/T conversion running one bar boost and with the hammer down 17mpg, with just running about getting 20 mpg. prior to the NA/T was getting 20mpg no matter how i drove the car. Very happy though as the performance is very fast and smooth just as you want it. Herbie.

Hi efini-boy, Just pm'd my details. many thanks. Wheel spacer kit now sold. Herbie.

BUMP. Price reduced £25 delivered.

Bump.

I have two members chasing these, they are a quality product, so have to operate "first come first served". Herbie.

Pair of 30mm wheel spacers, good British made quality kit by "Grayston". The design is such that hubcentricity is easily acheived with the HT steel hexagonal extension bolts and the aluminium die cast spacers having slots for adjustment, very easy to fit. The wider look of the rear of the car with these fitted is quite cool. £30. delivered, UK mainland only. 20160423_105733.jpg (213.8 KB) 20160423_103529.jpg (215.0 KB) 20160423_103233.jpg (219.5 KB)

Amongst the technicalities we can have a laugh, but i am not laughing as i bought some wheel spacer which don't work on my car, what a prick. ! ! lol.

Just fitted my 30mm spacers, they are fouling the tyres about 15mm from the side wall of the tyre, it is just the top 20 degrees of the edge of the wheel arch, it fouls on minor bumps and on all corners. I had my car lowered when i bought it and as i don't want to alter this, and the fact that the maximum spacer i could take of 15mm, then the 30mm are coming off. They are a good quality UK manufacture with the maker's name in the die casting, the studs are also HT steel, so they will be £30 delivered for some one who has not lowered their car, they also made the car look beefy at the back. Herbie. SPACER#1.jpg (195.1 KB) SPACER#2.jpg (207.7 KB) SPACER. PLAN..jpg (204.1 KB)

Hi Chris, The compressor did come with an electric drill, not sure how you knew ? however it was made in China and will only cut their steel, which is crap, it won't cut UK steel as we don't make any, anymore. lol.

They do tell you in their instructions to add about 15% white spirit, the oil i add is my idea, it still sits behind the wax when it dries. I much prefer drilling just the two holes for the rear wings and the doors, never liked pulling door cards off and breaking the plastic sheeting and press studs etc, it's quicker and easier and the plastic plugs just cover the holes. Warming the "waxoyl" is also a must as well as the car being warm and dry. Owners will have their own way of doing the job, the most important thing is doing it, i posted to help members who may wish to try it. Herbie.

Just bought a 3 hp, 50 lit, 15 cfm compressor, so today was "waxoyling" day, you need a compressor with a minimum of 15 cfm, (cubic feet / minute) and 50 lit capacity, any less and you will not acheive the volume blast you require to wet out the cavaties with a fully atomised oily mist, i learned this the last time i tried to do the job with a smaller compressor, most DIY compressors are only 8 CFM, and about 25 lit capacity. The car needs to be warm and dry,for a couple of days, you then heat up the "waxoyl" and then mix 50% with 25% engine oil and 25% white spirit. With the 15 cfm volume you can create a real blasting mist which completely coats all the cavities, doors, bonnet, tailgate, front and rear wings and the cills, and the fuel tank top and lower casing, these are all areas where the corrosion is working away without you seeing it. You have to drill strategic holes where the doors and rear wings are concerned, where as the front wings can be injected just above the hinges and the bonnet and tailgate have several holes. Plastic plugs seal the holes you have drilled when the injection is complete. Done properly where the oily plume exits like smoke all over the body work and you know everything has got coated, then this process lasts 5 years, IMHO well worth the effort. Your car will stink for a couple of weeks once the white spirit transporting agent has evaporated "waxoyl" cannot damage rubber or plastic and when dry will not mark your clothing etc. I have owned the car from new and carried out the "waxoyl" process every 5 years, and i do not have a spec of rust. Herbie.

Hi Chris, Why would you be more concerned about the discs and pads ? I refurbished the calipers, new pistons, rubbers etc, and had the front discs spot faced,last year, the brakes are really good. Herbie.

bump.

Hi Chris, Quite complicated, but very good info, i could follow it as i have been researching the suspension geometry this week, i would guess most members, me included where looking for aesthetics, the net result for me is rear wheels only 30mm, checked for condition of the wheel bolts / studs and hub-centricity, i have knocked up a simple stand with a pointer to position on the edge of the rear brake drum and then rotate the hub. I am not sure if the tyres will foul the top of the wheel arch? it looks like it will be very close? May be because there is only my weight in the car 90% of the time, then it may be ok? Herbie. 20160419_095001.jpg (191.9 KB) 20160419_095006.jpg (192.2 KB) 20160419_095014.jpg (198.1 KB)

Very interesting link Black Widow, looks like the performance advantages are minimal and the wheel bearings will wear marginally more. I am putting 30mm spacers on the rear only, i would not consider them on the front with the much more geometric complications and negatives. Herbie.

As usual good info Chris, many thanks, i was aware of the copper grease issue, many motorists have an honest but wrong belief about where and how to use it, the threads yes, but all other mating surfaces should be clean dry and gripping, including the small taper on the studs or bolts which mate up with the countersunk bit on the wheel, you explained it really well. I will also check the hub centric when i have fitted the spacers. Herbie.

Hi Dudes, I know it is a bit late to ask this question as i have just purchased a 30mm pair of used wheel spacers for the back of my car. How safe and strong are they ? have any members had any problems, or know of any ? I know the ali spacers will not fail, it is more concern for the fixing bolts, also are the wheel bearings up to the extra stress ? Any info will be appreciated. Herbie.

Hi raddys, good comments.

Hi Dudes, I imagine that not all Supra owners want to make their car look like something else and carry out an NA/T conversion ? After 19 years of owning my 100% stock NA from new, i decided to go for the best NA/T power upgrade and also aquired rear spats, face lift headlights and rear lights, and top quality leather seats. For me this gave me a new lease of Supra life, the car looks better, it out performs my brother's TT, he is stock auto, mine is manual and limited slip dif. On dry days the actual power and road holding out of fast bends is awesome, handling is superb. I often wonder how the Japs did this so long ago, they could not have known that they started one of the world's best respected and well known car cults. They must have realised this and kept us all well supplied with spare parts etc. Could they have known that 15 to 20 years on their engine design and robustness could be taken to 1,000 BHP ? Anyway, what do you think ? how long can this continue? will the continuous upgrades, like me go back to stock? Herbie.

PM sent, many thanks. Herbie.

Hi Supraleeturbo, If you still have the 30mm wheel spacers i will offer you £25 posted. Herbie.

Hi MATT RR, Is there an upgrade kit available for the brakes upgrade and how much do they cost ? Herbie.

Hi Bignum, Yes i fitted the oil cooler a thermostatic one as i know too cold oil is as bad as too hot oil, i never exceed 105C now and for most of my driving it stays at 90C, which is what the thermostat is set at. I am glad i had the good quality oil temp gauge fitted, as without this i would have been cooking my oil, i was getting as high as 135C, i think you and other members told me the oil cooler was a no brainer if you cared about your engine. Herbie. SUP.BEST.PIC.NAT..jpg (203.2 KB) 20151127_143309.jpg (179.6 KB)

Hi Bignum, Yes i fitted the oil cooler a thermostatic one as i know too cold oil is as bad as too hot oil, i never exceed 105C now and for most of my driving it stays at 90C, which is what the thermostat is set at. I am glad i had the good quality oil temp gauge fitted, as without this i would have been cooking my oil, i was getting as high as 135C, i think you and other members told me the oil cooler was a no brainer if you cared about your engine. Herbie. SUP.BEST.PIC.NAT..jpg (203.2 KB) 20151127_143309.jpg (179.6 KB) OIL COOLER..jpg (183.7 KB)