GreaseMonkey

That's cool, no probs Darryl:cool: . All is well mate, same ol'same;). Glad to see your progression so far on your new project mate, keep it up:). in Attachment 17745 shown in my above post (doesn't show picture like the others unless selected?) shows the Description of operation for the Fuel Pump and Fuel Pump ECU including what Voltages it Runs on High speed (12v) and Low Speed (9v).

Would this be of any help regarding your Fuel Pump ECU operation? from UK Spec Toyota 2JZ-GE, 2JZ-GTE ENGINE Repair Manual 1993 RM354E [ATTACH=CONFIG]177145[/ATTACH]

Oh....bother lol!, I can't believe I missed the Southampton meet, Only just noticed this. I'll have to keep a close eye in future , now there's a few Supra's down this way:cool:.

No probs mate[COOL][/COOL], I have/ managed to purchase new (going back 8/9yrs now) the genuine paperback Toyota UK OEM Electrical Wiring Diagram Manual & 2JZ-GE & GTE Engine Manual, and have a downloaded copy of The paperback Chassis Body Manual only, as the paperback version had been discontinued. I did have access to the paperback original but that was at my old work place before I moved, 7yrs ago lol!.

Hope this helps, from the Toyota EWD Manual (Engine Control RHD 2JZGTE)(EWD175Y) for UK spec Supra

Would it be this one by any chance?, only one I could think of. http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?261023-Missing-brethren-where-are-they-now&highlight=missing

Checking against part No.s on http://www.toyodiy.com/ the Lexus GS alternator is a different part No and Amperage rating to the one used on a Twin Turbo Supra. Also might have different plug/ connector on back as well. It might fit and do as a temp but I'm personally sceptical and wouldn't bother with the GS300 one you've posted up unless I knew otherwise, hth. From ToyoDIY Toyota Supra JZA80 (MK4) TT Auto: Part No. 27060-46120 Amperage: 100A Lexus GS300 JZS147 (MK1): Part No. 27060-46060 Amperage: 80A Toyota Aristo JZS147 (MK1) Part No. 27060-46230 Amperage: 80A Lexus GS300 JZS160 (MK2): Part No. 27060-46270 Amperage: 100A Toyota Aristo JZS161 (MK2) Part No. Not Availible Amperage: Not Availible

Just as an after-thought I'll take a look ,later on today if I can find them, through the instructions I had for these and see if I can see any additional info on the possibility of resynchronising the remote fobs without the need for disconnecting the main Car battery.

If it's the rectangular (scorpion/ toyota 5000 tds) remote fob with the 2 square buttons arranged left and right to each other ( not the oval 'ish type with the arrow indented 2 buttons arranged top to bottom) then this thread maybe of help. http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?188524-Replacing-battery-with-OE-Toyota-Alarm-Immobiliser&p=2406700#post2406700

Hi there , I'm in Hedge End. My Supra doesn't get out much apart from the Epic Basingstoke Meets and big meets like Japfest/ Supra Anniversary Meet etc.... there are 2 other members around this area as well, will see if Kamasupra is up for another Epic Basingstoke meet this year.

Might be worth checking the Cabin Temperature Sensor (as have had similar symptoms in the past on other cars), located near the Speedo/ Instrument Cluster behind the little grille cut outs in the dash trim panel, might have quite a bit of dust on sensor itself causing it to confuse and over compensate the cabin temp. Or possibly a heater matrix flap servo/ actuator is playing up? if not, just wondering if it has a Diagnostic function, like some of the later Toyota's,(don't quote me on it but from memory, lol!) by holding "Auto" & "Recirc" at the same time with the Ignition in "ON" position?, normal output DTC'S I think from memory are 21 & 24 which are usually solar sensors, so ignore them. or as you say it could be that the climate control unit is knackered.

Just some ideas..... Does the Engine cranking speed sound ok?, just wondering if the 12v Vehicle Battery has a bad cell/ poor condition/ poor connection, possible cause to the DTC's being cleared when rechecking? . Or possibly faulty 12v Vehicle Battery Positive/ Negative connection or ground connection issue, as have seen crank sensor codes come up sometimes due to the Engine turning over at a slower speed causing unstable voltage/ sensor signal from or between ECU to Crank and Cam sensors?. Other things to check is the air gap/ alignment of the Crank sensor and Cam Sensors, as when hot this gap may expand enough for the sensor not to pick it up? As per the Toyota Manual: Open or short in crankshaft position sensor , camshaft position sensor No.1, No.2 Circuit. Crankshaft Position Sensor. Camshaft Position sensor. Starter. ECU. Mechanical system malfunction (skipping of teeth of timing belt, belt stretched). Also to add, is the Vehicle fitted with an immobiliser that takes a feed off the crank or cam position sensor/ or cuts the cam /crank signal to prevent starting?

Just a thought, a girl I know on the Skyline Owners forum is selling a set of these Volks wheels which may be a better fit width wise/might be worth a look at? if youv'e not purchased these other wheels yet. http://www.skyline-owners-club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=44350

Sounds Like the Alternator to me as well, as have seen/ had these symptoms before, which was caused by/ turned out to be the rectifier diodes in the Alternator which had burnt out, I was seeing between 11v - 12v approx with the Engine running, and the same/ similar warning lights symptoms as you describe. The Rectifier unit, Brushes and Voltage Regulator parts were £200 altogether approx from Toyota and that the Alternator itself is only availible in bits, not a complete unit anymore. Check the Battery (no electrical load/ ignition off) standard Voltage, as per the Toyota repair manual, should be 12.5V - 12.9V. To Check the Alternator is charging, using a good Electrical Multimeter, set to Volts DC and put the meter probes on the + & - Battery terminals. With the Engine running, as per the Toyota repair manual, between Idle and 2000 rpm no Elecrical load (i.e lights/ radio/ wipers) should be 13.2V - 14.8V, if not as specified or less than, check the following: 12V Battery Terminal and Ground/ Earth on the Alternator and The 12V Battery terminals for corrosion/ poor contact or condition. Check the 120A ALT Fuse and 7.5A ALT S Fuse in the Engine bay. If they are both ok, then the fault will most likely be with the Alternator unit. The Reason that the lights you see coming on when the alternator fails is that they are connected on similar/ same circuits within the combination meter and tell tale indicators either side of the combination meter.

A member on Club Aristo carried out this NA-TT inlet manifold conversion mod on his JZS147 GS300 with a 2JZ-GE LINK: http://clubaristo.net/forums/showthread.php?32380-JZS147-Black-Edition/page3

Have you checked that the Stop lights work at the rear?, Just that some Toyota/ Lexus Vehicles bring this (Handbrake/ Brake warning light) light up if a Stop light bulb is out instead of the Bulb Failure Lamp. Also if it's not the above, may be worth to check the float on the Brake Fluid Level Sensor in the Brake Fluid Resevoir to see if its stuck down or check it for an open circuit, just a thought from previous stuff I've worked on with these symptoms.

29. Name three models that use the numbers 300....Nissan 300zx, Peugeot 3008 Lexus IS300, GS300, RX300 30. Finally one oddball! We all know that TRD stands for Toyota Racing Development but what of STI, HFP, FPV or SVT?....Subaru Technica International, SVT is Ford but I have no idea. HFP = Honda Factory Performance FPV = Ford Performance Vehicle SVT = Special Vehicle Team (Ford)

Nice one Dude, Hope you're enjoying your new purchase. Very nice car you got there . I'm sure it will be spotless, like your Supra, when you finish cleaning it ;).

Cheers Dave for another Epic Basingstoke Meet[TABLE][/TABLE]. Nice to see you guys again including the new faces, enjoyed the banter as always and enjoyed the drive around Basingstoke, lol!. Hope to see you again at the next meet.

1. KamaSupra 2. GreaseMonkey 3. 4. 5.

Cheers Supraudi, As mentioned in my post, if I can get interest in all 5 sets to maintain the agreed price, approval from the Forum Moderators and depending on what the extra costs and logistics involve, Then I may go ahead with them, as said I'll see what there results are like and what interest I get. The less sets made, the higher the price will become (the highest being £160 approx before postage). If not then I will let you know. Cheers.

Hi all, just an update... I visited the company, I got to make my custom blank center caps, today and discussed the idea of making some more. We worked out an estimate of how much I could get them produced for, this was for producing 20 blank center caps (5 sets of 4 blank center caps) with a lathed finish (same as my custom blank center caps) out of the same material/ metal alloy as mine are, The approx cost for each set of 4 center caps would cost £100 approx a set to make. (£25 per centercap, bare not clearcoated and the cost of postage would have to be added on as well). I showed them the OEM center and the one they made, and have left it with them to see if they can replicate it just as well or better than originally. Now I just need to gauge interest on who would like these and figure out an easy hassle free method of payment/(as being old fashioned and not having paypal or the like lol!) logistics i.e postage costs to sort etc.... and the obvious courtesy, in keeping with Forum rules, of approval from the appropriate Moderators on the forum for doing this. I'm going to have a think about it as I don't want to become a regretable headache/ more hassle than it's worth, lol! (as I've never done this before, no intention of doing this) and if I do decide to do this this it would be a one off occasion. I'll pop by the company probably next Friday and see how they get on, depending on whether I want to do this, as I'm quite busy with other stuff at the moment requiring my attention at work and home. If not, as I have posted before, any suitably equipped machining fabrication/ engineering company could make these, just a question of time, quality & cost. Cheers, Thank you.

Hi Supraudi, no problem. The Original OEM Center caps are Metal, from what I can tell looking at them they look to be Cast/ Pressed and then machined & Diamond cut finished, Rather than fully machined like my Custom center caps. The "L" OR "TTE" logos are pressed/ cast into the face of the cap so wouldn't be possible to machine these logos out unfortunately unless they were filled with the likes of a TIG welder and then lathed/ machined, but I'd be skeptical if TIG welding/ filling could be done, as I would suspect it would warp or crack the center cap because of the heat generated if this were to be carried out/ and that it maybe more time consuming than making it from scratch using a template/ OEM center cap.

Hi all, It would be me/ my Supra "TTE Grandstands/ Lexus GS300 Sport" wheels that "shakey" is talking about. Just to clarify a few things first, please read the following, lol!. The Company I used, I used 4 approx years ago, so I cannot guarantee/ vouch for the quality of the work, if it is to be done again. When I had them made, I was in no hurry to get them made, so I left it with them (as they can be very busy), which they completed within 2-3 weeks approx from memory. The total cost of the 4 Center Caps all in was £160.00. I did not have them Diamond cut unfortunately, I just requested a machine lathe like finish/ similar to a Diamond cut, which is all I requested them to do. I did this so if the finish was not a good enough match, I could then have the option of having them Diamond Cut by a local Alloy wheel refurbishing firm. But as it stands I was happy with the "straight off the Lathe" finish they did (which will require/ required finishing as slightly rough/ some burrs/ imperfections to remove, so please do not expect a 100% "off the shelf" finish). After I recieved/ collected them, I Finished them, removed mentioned imperfections from the machining process myself by wetsanding/ metal polishing & clearcoating them to a finish as close to the original/ I was happy with. I Just thought I mention this so no misunderstanding:think:/ unecessary dissapointment :(/ bad feeling becomes of this, so I don't get blamed if it goes wrong lol!. I can enquire the plausibility/ idea (as I can take the one they made along with the original) of these being made by the company that made my custom blank center caps, as I'm having some other parts machined by them, of which I'll be picking up on this Thursday if ok. If not, feel free to contact them, or any other suitably equipped Engineering/ Machining fabrication Company to see what they can/could offer. I have taken some pictures (taken on my Camera Phone) of the Center Caps , comparisons with the original ones (Custom made on the Left, Original OEM on the Right, Both of which, Custom made & Original OEM, I am keeping/ not selling) as they stand now, which IMO have held up well, over the time they have been on the car. Apologies for such a long read, but felt I should explain it / let you guys know first hand, Thank you.

Some lovely machines there indeed .