ADL Mark

You should always have tracking checked after you have new tyres fitted as the process of fitting the tyres could slightly alter the tracking. In theory every time you have so much as a wheel off the car you should get the tracking checked.

Nice one Matt, and once again sorry for the hijack

Sorry to hijack.. Matt, did you get my PM a few weeks ago about a clutch for my car?

Looks like the fins are pretty damaged mate, as soon as they get that bent they're not really worth using

Hi all, Looking for one of these for my Supra, hoping some traders might be able to furnish me with some prices? Cheers,

I seem to remember somebody on the GT4OC weighed the full air con system from a GT-Four, with the pump, pipes, condensor rad, heat exchanger etc. and it was somewhere around 35Kg.. I would imagine the system is fairly similar, if not bigger and heavier!

Cheers Gaz Nice to meet you yesterday, lovely car your boy has there

Why? You have your own snow-plough now!

As long as you promised not to take us down a narrow single-track lane then I'll try and come along

I had a similar problem on my girlfriend's ST205 a couple of weeks ago, the positive battery terminal came loose and spiked the alarm. It was a Toyota 5000 alarm, standard fit thing that has an immobiliser and controls the central locking etc. I spoke to my friendly Mr T parts guy who suggested the following, and suprisingly it worked: 1. Open the drivers door and leave it open just in case the alarm turns on and locks you out! 2. Turn the ignition on to ACC. 3. Disconnect the positive terminal of the battery for about 5 seconds and reconnect as cleanly as you can (without sparking etc.) 4. Turn the ignition off 5. Press the black button. The alarm should respond. If not, try holding the black button for 10 seconds as per Ratboy's instructions to re-sync the keyfob to the alarm unit. This should sort it, the technician apparently said sometimes you have to repeat this 2-3 times before it will work, but if the alarm unit is still ok then this should sort it out. When I reconnected the battery, before I even took the keys out of the ignition it had started flashing the hazard lights so the alarm had already started working again.

Lol.. thanks robzki

I found the girlfriend a lovely red 1994 UK ST205 for £4k a few weeks ago. OZ Superleggera's and Blitz NUR Spec, lovely car.

So tempted, but really shouldn't be spending money on the car.. Hmm.. Somebody else please buy this so I don't have to

Nice car, good luck getting that much for it in the current market though

I picked up an HP Colour LaserJet 4550 from eBay last week for £45. Only done 55k prints, fuser and imaging unit only half used. Needs a couple of toners refilled as they're showing 0% but still prints out fine. Weighs 60Kg, so you definitely break a sweat getting it in and out of the car. Brought it home in the girlfriend's ST205 Celica, was amusing getting 60Kg of printer over the rear strut brace to sit on the back seat

Does it include all the wiring and solenoid?

Friendly Supra driver, waved as we went passed Don't suppose you were a forum member?

It's more likely to be the turbo oil seal leaking under vacuum when you lift off. Valve stem oil seals will be more likely to smoke on start up as oil will have seeped passed them whilst the car has been sitting cold and this will burn off when started. Turbo oil seals will often cause the symptoms you describe. Weeping turbo oil seals won't ruin the bottom end of your engine, only if it's burning enough oil to run the engine dry will it cause problems. Just make sure you check the oil level.

Is this the slingbox classic or solo?

You might want to post that in the for sale section, you'll have more luck. And you're very brave posting your mobile number on an open forum

Yup, Rover V8 is all ally and weighs less than a 2.0 Ford Pinto engine, that's why they're so popular. The 2JZ is an iron block and bloody heavy at that. You don't need silly power in a car like that, although I'd agree that a 1.3 is a bit underpowered. Something like a Toyota 4A-GE or 4A-GZE (1.6 or 1.6 supercharged) is a great engine and very popular in kit cars. Raw Engineering do loads of kits for them and some fantastic upgrades. You can easily get 150bhp out of the N/A engine and in a car that probably only weighs about 6-700Kg that will make for a great little tool. The supercharged ones will make 200bhp if you want, but they're a bit harder and more expensive to source.

I think you'll ruin the car to be honest, the 2JZ is far too heavy for a car like that. It'll be so nose heavy it will upset the handling lots

Nope, wrong PCD and far too small otherwise anyway.

Much easier to fit the pipework down to a SMIC or FMIC than the PHR kits then.

I know with the PHR kits, they don't supply a pipe that will fit straight from the turbo to a SMIC. Their turbos come clocked to point down and include piping that fits from there towards a FMIC. I don't know about the BL kits but I would imagine they're the same, so if you're sticking with a SMIC then whoever installs it is going to have to do some fiddling.