spartan

Anybody got both/either of these? Thanks

The JZS161 is the Aristo and the Vertex version was a TT 6-speed I believe (that had the same engine/gearbox fitted as the Supra). A few people on the forum have this car I think. You would be best to check the exact part number for the JZA80 VVTi TT ECU using your car's VIN/frame number. However, I believe it is 89661-14820 for the auto. and 89661-14830 for the manual (both 5 plugs/sockets - maybe not all used on the manual?). Just thought of something - if your car didn't have the VVTi engine fitted originally but received it from a 'donor' Aristo vehicle, maybe this is why you have that ECU fitted. Again, the VIN/frame number might help prove this either way. Re-reading your first post, it's not entirely clear if you have the car or just the engine ... Welcome, by the way!

The JZS161 is the Aristo and the Vertex version was a TT 6-speed I believe (that had the same engine/gearbox fitted as the Supra). A few people on the forum have this car I think. You would be best to check the exact part number for the JZA80 VVTi TT ECU using your car's VIN/frame number. However, I believe it is 89661-14820 for the auto. and 89661-14830 for the manual (both 5 plugs/sockets - maybe not all used on the manual?). Just thought of something - if your car didn't have the VVTi engine fitted originally but received it from a 'donor' Aristo vehicle, maybe this is why you have that ECU fitted. Again, the VIN/frame number might help prove this either way. Re-reading your first post, it's not entirely clear if you have the car or just the engine ... Welcome, by the way!

Glad to be of help and I think it's a good idea to do some pruning - including this post!

Glad to be of help and I think it's a good idea to do some pruning - including this post!

See LM2 innovate and VVTi compatability. Well done!

Not being funny but have you checked your brake fluid level? The level warning indicator is very sensitive and could lead to the effects you are seeing under acceleration/deceleration or even steepish hills. If this is the problem then the brake warning light should also illuminate at the same time as the MIL. Make sure your brake fluid is at least up to the max. line or even a little higher when the car is stood on a level surface. Hope that helps! Edit: Just read through your brilliant NA>TT write-up - bloomin' good work!

Are you sure you're looking at the correct light? I think the first post in the FAQ thread has been edited to make it clearer which light you should be looking at ...

Hope there's nobody from the MR2 forums on here ... rK6mughvEfY

OK. You probably already know but the ignition must be ON (not ACC and not immobilised) for it to be able to 'talk' ...

The OBDII port is right next to the bonnet/hood release and easily accessible. There's a picture of it in post #16 of Ewen's thread but it's still hard to see. I took another picture of it for a different thread on the Greddy Informeter - see the picture in post #4. Hope that helps!

Indeed - that's really useful info. Well done! The codes, presumably are the same as the 'old' ones with some extra ones for VVTi specific faults. How do we get these details incorporated into the original FAQ?

Sorry if I'm being a bit slow. Can you just clarify exactly what it is you've done? Is it this from your first post: Thanks!

Never mind your new filter - you should notice a bit of an improvement in performance without that thing in your intake!

Thanks everyone. If you're lucky enough to have two (or more!) sets of wheels then, if those old wheels of yours don't already have the tyres taken off, I would think it would be well worth investing a fiver (?) in getting them removed first. Masking the tyres is, in my opinion, more tedious than any filling and sanding ...

This suggests that it will work.

The weather was as its best here just after 7 this morning. The light's still a bit flat though.

The old Informeter definitely doesn't show fault codes (I know because I've got one fitted) but I'm sure I've seen a post on here somewhere by someone who owns a R-Vit stating that is does show the codes. I'm trying to find the reference I located before stating that the Supra uses the VPW protocol. This is the best I can find but it also seems to state that, from 1999 onwards, it changed to ISO. Found this old thread.

The 'relatively cheap' Greddy Informeter plugs into the OBD-II port and displays lots of ECU parameters in real-time. It doesn't show fault codes (just a fault count) but there is a newer version out now that may show codes too. The Blitz R-Vit is a very similar piece of kit that DOES show the codes too, I believe. When I was looking into the compatibility of such devices with the VVTi cars, I discovered that the 'flavour' of OBD-II on our cars is the 'VPW' protocol. Hope that helps!

I was conscious of the grave-digging but the original thread is a good one. As for pictures, it's p'ing it down here so try to imagine a brand new stock wheel with tired looking calipers/decals (next job)

Just done mine using a very similar method to that described above (didn't remove tyres so most laborious part was masking up). Really pleased with the results for a total cost of under £50. A few pointers that may be useful to others: I used an aluminium primer (2 coats; gentle rub-down after each coat and prep. wipes). Toyota Lucerne Silver (199) is a good match for the stock wheel colour when lacquered (I purchased one new wheel centre from Nic and didn't need to paint it because the colour match is that close). When spraying the final coat of lacquer, be brave and use it close enough so that the surface looks wet (otherwise it won't be glossy when dry) but try not to overdo it (see next point). Don't attempt to try to fix any problems with the paint/lacquer when still wet! You'll be amazed how many problems can be easily fixed or disappear completely by the times things are properly dry. Don't rush! I did my wheels one at a time over a period of a few weeks (mainly due to bad weather) ... Too avoid having to do all it again soon, I highly recommend finishing with Poorboys Wheel Sealant.

See this thread. Personally, I like the Poorboys Natural Finish - it's not too shiny (more like 'as delivered') and smells great too.

1. Jim_1979 2. TTRickeh 3. AlexM (I already have a Burna Bracket) 4. supralover 5. MARCUS1979 6. Dave F 7. M5W TT 8. Havard 9. Gruggs 10. Magictorch 11. Hoff 12. Paul 13. JohnnyW 14. GlennK 15. JamieP 16. BOB B 17. AndyT 18. Budz86 19. Justin 20. Johnny G 21. *Lynz* 22. Ste D 23. matlee 24. harps 25. m_life 26. Stratty 27. China Man 28. Gavin.Starr 29. Spartan

OK - so maybe some pictures of your wiring won't help after all. Going back to what you describe in your 'symptoms', I think I have an explanation: the loom side of your brake lights is connected to pin 87a of relay 1 (rather than pin 30) the light side of your brake lights is connected to pin 30 of relay 1 (rather than pin 87a) the light side of your nearside inner tail light is not connected to pin 87a of relay 2 (I think it may be connected to pin 30) The first two are easily fixed: you just need to swap over the connections at the relay, one for the other. The third will need some careful tracing. Of course, it could also be that (as you've already suggested) that one of the relays isn't working properly or maybe someone's tinkered with this wiring before you got there ...