spartan

That price is crazy - according to the site I use in the US, the price for all 5 bolts should be about $15 (or $10 after discount).

Fitted my Lexus upgrade washer jets today, as per Michael's instructions although I had problems sliding a piece of plastic underneath at first so I used ... dental floss (tape)! - this helped to lift it a bit. The pre-painted silver colour is not quite same as mine (1C0 rather than 1B9) but you really can't tell. In use, they work just fine although (as stated elsewhere) they squirt a bit low. I don't think this is a problem with the jets themselves but more likely to do with the pump - I bet Lexus pumps have a bit more pressure and this would also help 'atomise' the washer fluid. Any ideas how I can up the voltage on my washer pump?

It took me a while to understand what you meant but I got there in the end (on other diagram pages, there is a black star/diamond next to the words "Non-reusable part" in the bottom corner; on this diagram the words are there but the mark is missing but if you click and drag across the text from top-left to bottom right, you see a little highlighted 'space' next to the words and also next to some of the part numbers!) - very well spotted! Part numbers are (to be confirmed - the last two digits indicate the quantity): 90110-14003-01 "BOLT, NO.2 (FOR REAR DIFFERENTIAL CARRIER SET)" 90110-14003-02 "BOLT, NO.3 (FOR REAR DIFFERENTIAL CARRIER SET)" 90105-12218-02 "BOLT, NO.4 (FOR REAR DIFFERENTIAL CARRIER SET)" N.B. these are the part numbers and descriptions for the JDM model; the part numbers for the Euro. model are the same but the description of 90105-12218-02 changes to "BOLT, NO.1 (FOR REAR DIFFERENTIAL CARRIER SET)" Also, 90110-14003 seems to have been superseded by 90110-14007 "BOLT, HEXAGON SOCKET" - three (3) of these required in total. Incidentally, according to the service manuals for the prop. shaft (here), you're meant to re-check the joint angle when doing things like replacing the diff (see PR-15 onwards). This requires adjusting shims, special tools and generally looks 'nasty'. Is it really necessary?

If buying new, the required part numbers appear to be: 84112‑80152 "SWITCH ASSY, LIGHT CONTROL, NO.1" 84652‑14620 "SWITCH ASSY, WINDSHIELD WIPER" (1993-97) or 84652‑14641 "SWITCH ASSY, WINDSHIELD WIPER" (1998) Not sure what changed in '98 but there was also a change in part number if you want the whole steering column switch assembly (includes both of the above plus tilt lever, clock-spring, etc.): 84310‑1B120 "SWITCH ASSY, TURN SIGNAL" (1993-97) or 84310‑1B220 "SWITCH ASSY, TURN SIGNAL" (1998) Prices appear quite reasonable

Here's a pretty good picture of the US (note the MPH speedo) stalks: http://www.94supra.com/mods/gauges_03.jpg Still looking for a Euro-spec ... found one: http://srazy.ic.cz/ptynec/img00088.jpg So you were right - Euro spec. models have the same layout as US. To be honest though, it's probably still simpler to get the parts (second-hand) from the US ...

I might have to take you up on that offer anyway - thanks! That's interesting - are you saying that Euro. spec supras have the US layout too? It's actually quite difficult to find decent pictures to verify ...

I think I'm right in saying that, on all JDM and UK models, the wiper switches are on the left-hand steering column stalk and the lights/indicators are on the right. The exception to this appears to be the USDM models where the reverse is true (I stand to be corrected on this). On 'modern' cars (the youngest Supras will be celebrating their 8th birthday this year!), in the UK (Europe?), it's my experience that manufacturers have standardised on the US layout - lights (indicators and headlight flasher/main beam switch at least) on the left with wipers on the right - no doubt to save costs as much as for the sake of standardisation. Now, this isn't particularly important to me but for the wife it makes the difference between her calling it "That car!"' (in 'that' voice ) rather than "Our beloved Supra" or something similar that I would infinitely prefer. I'm contemplating getting the parts from the US and attempting to swap them over. The switches look exactly the same in terms of function but the plugs/wiring is probably (bound to be?) different ... Anyone have any experience of doing the swap?

I had a UK-spec MR2 (SW20) in this colour back in the early '90s (and an argument with Toyota GB as I ordered it in advance - based on their sales brochure - before they decided they wouldn't bring any to the UK in this colour; they changed their mind eventually!). I loved it then but I couldn't face it again now. The plastic body parts faded to a different colour to the rest of the car and I can see that on this car too. Looks genuine to me although the mileage is amazingly low! Agreed the pictures aren't the best but they do show some very desirable extras ...

Same here and for the belief (possibly mistaken!) that I'm less likely to get stopped by the Old Bill/have problems at MOT time. I declared mine to insurance company as well though so perhaps I am bit cautious ...

I think it's 12mm - see from page 66 onwards in the service/repair guide here. Hope that helps. Let us know how it goes - I've got a Torsen unit sat in my garage that's been waiting to go on the car for over a year, I just haven't had the courage to do it myself!

Just purchased some new Lexus mist/spray washer jets as per the excellent details provided by michael here. FYI, I ordered them online via the Lexus Parts Direct website; the price for a pair (pre-painted) was 26 GBP inc P&P. A bit pricey maybe but I'm looking forward to something a bit more effective than the 3.5 random squirts I get now (despite wasting a couple of pints of washer fluid and half-a-dozen pins from the wife's sewing box, trying to get the bloomin' things aligned).

According to this brochure for the US 1998 Supra: and the same brochure makes it clear that the Supra (non-Turbo) has the VVTi engine. So maybe a system was available for the US market only. I can't find any part numbers in my EPC but I'm not sure it covers the US model. I guess we just need to ask someone in the US who has one!

Apologies for any unintentional repost ... Found these videos for the US NA Supra but I think they are equally applicable to the TT (just that the TT never went to the US with VVTi): BlD42hYETmA fQSfJgjDjwU This last video (from the same source) is not totally applicable to VVTi cars but is 'interesting': ULaeeOV_-JA

Mr Toyota you mean? Perhaps the Iridium plugs weren't available back in 1997. If they were, it does seem a bit strange as the cost of the multi-ground platinum (now) exceeds the iridium equivalent plug.

I wasn't but I think you've just hit upon the reason for the change - as wasted spark ignition was introduced with the VVTi engine - each plug is igniting twice as often as before (eroding quicker) hence the need for a plug which will last longer! Does that make sense? Does it mean that owners of VVTi engined cars who aren't using this new style of plug should potentially be changing them more often? I guess not if you're already using Iridium ...

Found this extra info. on multi-ground spark plugs: So not really multi-spark (no simultaneous spark). There is also some debate as to whether the extra metal within the combustion chamber helps channel heat away/retains it, thus preventing/causing det. etc. Maybe the Toyota service interval was extended for VVTi engined cars, hence the requirement for a plug that lasted even longer? Anyway, "as you were" is the message to take forward (I'll get me coat).

It may not be a problem with the alarm ... If the locks are frozen badly enough to bend a key then it stands to reason that the alarm interface might not be able to shift them either. You could test this fairly easily by sitting in the car with the doors closed and try the central locking function button on the driver's door console. I think it's normal for alarms to be triggered by a voltage drop, like the interior light coming on when you open the door. It could be the door switch to trigger this is only working on the driver's side. Maybe it's frozen on the passenger side. Again, you can check this fairly easily by seeing if the courtesy light and/or door open warning lamp on the dash. comes on when you open the driver/passenger doors. Hope that helps.

Great info. that I don't want to detract from in any way (just come here from another thread) so I hope my input isn't confusing. I can't see the following mentioned anywhere before in this thread. I believe for a August 1997 onwards TT (I guess this means VVTi), the OEM spark plug has changed slightly: NGK BKR6EKPB-11 DENSO PK20TR11 The new plug is a 'multi-ground' (not multi-spark) design and seems very expensive (see NGK website for more details). Interestingly, the Iridium equivalent plug hasn't changed which leads me to think that the original style OEM plug would still work quite happily. I wonder why they decided to go for a different design for OEM - somehow related to VVTi engine changes?

Mis-copy by Abz corrected and subsequent recommendations re-applied: +5 -0 Avon ZZ3 +0 -0 Barum Bravuris 2 +0 -0 Bridgestone RE050 +3 -0 Bridgestone RE050A +0 -2 Bridgestone RE050A (run flat) +1 -0 Bridgestone S02 (N3) +2 -0 Bridgestone S02 (N4) +0 -3 Continental Sport Contact +0 -1 Continental Sport Contact 2 (N2) +0 -0 Continental Sport Contact 2 (run flat) +1 -0 Continental Sport Contact 3 +0 -0 Cooper Zeon +0 -0 Dunlop SP Sport 2000E (BMW) +1 -0 Dunlop SP Sport 9000 +2 -0 Dunlop SP Sport Maxx +5 -4 Falken FK-452 +0 -1 Falken Ziex ZE-512 +0 -0 Falken Ziex ZE-912 +0 -0 Fulda Carat Exelero +11 -2 Goodyear Eagle F1 GS-D3 +0 -0 Goodyear Excellence +0 -1 Hankook Ventus V12 Evo +0 -1 Kingstar K 106 +0 -0 Kumho KU31 +0 -0 Kumho KU31 (run flat) +1 -0 Marangoni Mythos +0 -0 Marshal Matrac MU11 +0 -0 Maxxis MA +1 -0 Michelin Pilot Sport +4 -2 Michelin Pilot Sport 2 (N3) +0 -2 Nankang NS-1 +0 -0 Nankang NS-2 +1 -0 Nexen N3000 +0 -1 Nokian NRY +0 -0 Pirelli Euforia (run flat) +2 -0 Pirelli P Zero Nero +0 -0 Pirelli P Zero (N, run flat) +5 -0 Pirelli P Zero Rosso (N3) +0 -0 Primewell PZ900 +11 -1 Toyo Proxes T1-R +4 -0 Toyo R888 +0 -0 Uniroyal RainSport 2 +2 -0 Vredestein Ultrac Sessanta +0 -0 Vredestein Wintrac Xtreme +2 -0 Yokohama A048-R +0 -0 Yokohama V103 Advan Sport

I noticed that a few threads were starting up on tyres again (probably that time of year). Here's the up-to-date list of member recommended (+) / not recommended (-). Current top 5 highlighted with overall in bold: +4 -0 Avon ZZ3 +0 -0 Barum Bravuris 2 +0 -0 Bridgestone RE050 +3 -0 Bridgestone RE050A +0 -2 Bridgestone RE050A (run flat) +1 -0 Bridgestone S02 (N3) +2 -0 Bridgestone S02 (N4) +0 -3 Continental Sport Contact +0 -1 Continental Sport Contact 2 (N2) +0 -0 Continental Sport Contact 2 (run flat) +1 -0 Continental Sport Contact 3 +0 -0 Cooper Zeon +0 -0 Dunlop SP Sport 2000E (BMW) +1 -0 Dunlop SP Sport 9000 +2 -0 Dunlop SP Sport Maxx +4 -2 Falken FK-452 +0 -1 Falken Ziex ZE-512 +0 -0 Falken Ziex ZE-912 +0 -0 Fulda Carat Exelero +7 -2 Goodyear Eagle F1 GS-D3 +0 -0 Goodyear Excellence +0 -1 Hankook Ventus V12 Evo +0 -1 Kingstar K 106 +0 -0 Kumho KU31 +0 -0 Kumho KU31 (run flat) +1 -0 Marangoni Mythos +0 -0 Marshal Matrac MU11 +0 -0 Maxxis MA +2 -2 Michelin Pilot Sport 2 (N3) +0 -1 Nankang NS-1 +0 -0 Nankang NS-2 +1 -0 Nexen N3000 +0 -1 Nokian NRY +0 -0 Pirelli Euforia (run flat) +2 -0 Pirelli P Zero Nero +0 -0 Pirelli P Zero (N, run flat) +4 -0 Pirelli P Zero Rosso (N3) +0 -0 Primewell PZ900 +10 -0 Toyo Proxes T1-R +2 -0 Toyo R888 +0 -0 Uniroyal RainSport 2 +1 -0 Vredestein Ultrac Sessanta +0 -0 Vredestein Wintrac Xtreme +2 -0 Yokohama A048-R +0 -0 Yokohama V103 Advan Sport Please feel free to add your recommendations (see first post for details).

And, just to be clear, the first thumbnail is open, the second is Torsen LSD. I believe you can also verify Torsen by looking through the drain hole (you can see the helical gears) if you have good eyes and have drained the oil first

1. AndyT 2. Westcoaster 3. Spartan 4. 5.

Very good explanation in this article: Tyres, Grip and All That... Interesting excerpts:

Is this it? Extra air duct/snorkel/funnel

Got one now - big thanks to Mo (The Restorer).