spartan
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I fitted a Metal Monkey speedo dial face fairly recently and had the same concern over the needle (which had to be removed). I seem to remember the MM fitting instructions suggesting removing the needle stop and allowing the needle to come to its 'natural resting place' with the dial held upright. That didn't work for me for two reasons: I couldn't get the needle stop off (without risk of breaking it) whilst in situ; mine was a facelift speedo so the needle couldn't get to its 'natural resting place' because it ran up against the odo. reset first. After a lot of head scratching, I found a solution (that worked for me anyway) ... If you remove the speedo unit from the dash assembly (four screws?) and examine the underside of the speedo mechanism carefully, you should be able to see the gearwheel of the needle. I was able to thread a cocktail stick along the underside of the dial to contact this gearwheel and hold it in place. Of course, any movement of the cocktail stick will move the needle so I carefully positioned (wedged!) another cocktail stick - perpendicular to the first - to keep a bit more tension on it (wish I'd taken some photos as this is far harder to describe than actually do!). By applying small pressure to the first cocktail stick - push/pull - you can now set the needle to any memorable position so that when you come to replacing the needle on the new dial you know where it should be pointing (I left mine pointing at 0). Obviously, I was very careful not to move the cocktail sticks whilst removing the needle (two teaspoons method - don't twist!) and refitting. I've since verified the speedo against several of those 'Have a nice day' speed warning signs and it's bang-on. If you don't fancy this technique, I've also heard that with the ignition turned on (engine running?) the speedo needle should be lightly resting against the needle stop. Not sure how accurate that would be but then using cocktail sticks doesn't sound too promising on the face of it. Hope that helps
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Correct but I was looking for a good price not whether available now in the UK so - sorry - I don't think I can help.
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wanted Glass headlights anyone doing a good deal?
spartan replied to dibbleyuk's topic in Parts Wanted
Just seen a second-hand set go for crazy money on oBoy: Toyota supra genuine Glass headlights mint condition £235 + 30 P&P -
Please excuse my ignorance but why would you obviously wish to fit a FMIC?
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I have a slight variation on the theme of this fog light conversion ... (I think everyone has their own): it still uses two relays (of the changeover variety = 5 pin rather than 4 pin); it uses the OEM bulb failure light as the tell-tale to indicate your fog lights are on (otherwise this works as standard) so you don't need an illuminated switch; it doesn't require any resistors which is the main reason I put some effort into coming up with this variation. Please see picture attached (with thanks to Pete Betts whose diagram I used as a template). N.B. The relay pins are correctly numbered but they might not match the layout of the pins on your relays. Let me know if you need more details of how this works.
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I think what you are referring to is "Vacuum energy". There was a nice description of this and the Casimir effect (one that I could nearly understand) in the BBC's recent series on the nature of the atom. In particular, the bit that blew my mind was the justification for the spontaneous appearance/disappearance of these virtual particle pairs: the idea being that the energy required to appear was 'borrowed' from the future, only to be 'paid back' very shortly afterwards when they annihilate each other.
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REAS was only available factory fitted as standard on the last generation RZ and SZ-R models; it wasn't even an option on other models. The REAS system was actually developed by Yamaha (see old news article here) but has since been evolved by Toyota ('X-REAS'). The "yaw control" quoted is not, I believe, a reference to the REAS system but to the "Sports ABS" system that included a G-sensor: standard on the last generation RZ model only but a factory option on all other models (and possibly goes hand-in-hand with bigger brake/wheel combination factory option).
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From the album: 1997 Toyota Supra RZ-S VVTi Twin Turbo Tiptronic (Sold)
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From the album: 1997 Toyota Supra RZ-S VVTi Twin Turbo Tiptronic (Sold)
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In the barn with Lancia Beta Volumex (and Ford tractor)
spartan posted a gallery image in Supra Garage
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From the album: 1997 Toyota Supra RZ-S VVTi Twin Turbo Tiptronic (Sold)
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I don't think any non-UK cars had the wiring for the heated seats (separate loom) and whether all cars had the active spoiler wiring fitted is a moot point (maybe all ABS fitted cars do). Unless an active spoiler was fitted and subsequently removed (maybe your front bumper isn't stock?) I would expect the switch socket to be taped back, out of the way. I seem to think that there may be some sort of interior temperature sensor on the front dash panel near here (behind a few small slits) - maybe you have found the problem?!
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I have found Aire Valley Auto Paint to be very good (located on the same estate as KTC but definitely NOT connected) - the wife's car is probably down there two/three times a year [sigh]. Call 01535 636058 and speak to Tony but be warned - he's a super bloke; been in the business for donkey's years AND could talk the hind legs of a donkey. Personally, I think it's great to be able to talk to someone (who's going to be working on your P&J) like you can to Tony but only start a converstion with him if the other-half/kids, etc. aren't waiting in the car for you!
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On the same estate as Fun Planet (that would make a good name for a Supra servicing place too!), just on the right as you turn in, backing on to the railway.
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I realise that this may not be totally helpful but my wife had the same problem on her Skoda (will I get points knocked off for using the wrong kind of 'S' word on this forum?) The problem there was with an electronically controlled valve/vent/gate whose job it was to 'blend' the hot air (from engine) and cold air (from outside or a/c) to to the desired temperature: it was stuck in one position, only allowing in hot air. Maybe something similar here on the Supra?
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Well, it took a lot of pushing and pulling but I got it fitted and it works perfectly (up, down, correct speeds, everything). The plug on the other end of the wiring loom was taped up, just under the o/s headlight. If you take out the headlights (being careful not to drop the nuts!), there's easily sufficient access to fit the active spoiler without messing around with the bumper itself. The last few bolts/screws that affix the front of the new undertray to the bumper could only be put in place with the spoiler in the lowered position (a couple of extra holes were required to be drilled here because of the different trim pieces on the facelift front bumper aperture). I also found that it was necessary to trim the ends off some plastic shrouding around the towing eyes, in order that they cleared the spoiler activating rod and brackets. One thing I did, which I think made fitting slightly easier, was to remove the hanger from the non-motor end (my active spoiler came as a complete assembly) and then reattach it once the spoiler is more or less in place with the motor end hanging (from the dowel Toyota very thoughtfully have put in place) on the frame by the 'hook' on the bracket.
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Well, Paul did indeed give me a great price so I'll be getting it from him. Free plug for Whifbitz
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I used www.alignmycar.co.uk to find my nearest centre. Nothing to say but good things about the whole process and it's something I would routinely do now.
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Fairly easy to verify independently - just ask eBay! A search on their Help facility reveals that although there is a scheme of this name, it does NOT work the way described and is only available to residents of the USA and Canada using the eBay Motors site (motors.ebay.com) See Vehicle Purchase Protection for more details.
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Found - thanks to Keron
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I'm guessing that's J-spec, right? Do you have UK too? Thanks
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Thanks for the tip - I've sent him a PM.
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I've been speaking to Dusty at MVP (in the USA) about sourcing this exhaust for me - great guy and he has given me a good price incl. shipping. However, it's just occurred to me that I'll have to pay duty and VAT on this item when it arrives. Can I just double-check then, before I place my order, that this exhaust isn't available from anyone here in the UK? Thanks
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Thanks but I'm not just after the pump but the complete pump/hanger assembly.
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I'd prefer UK pump but would settle for 'nearly new' J-spec. Just after the hanger now but must be UK/export. If nobody has one I'll go back to J-spec pump if anyone's got one (see below). Thanks
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HID after market headlamp conversions on MKIV's not legal?
spartan replied to Chris Wilson's topic in Supra Chat
I'm no lawyer but, IMO, that statement is not 'law' (it starts by saying it's the DoT's view). Therefore, until a precedent is set (for example by a 'test case' - where somebody who has been stopped by the police and charged for having HID conversion bulbs fitted - has been heard by a court and judged) this is still a gray area. Remember how 'speed camera (radar) detectors' were once considered to be illegal?
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