bodilx6

Quite easy, just a bit messy. You should fit a nice quality sandwich plate between your filter and engine. This can be done from below by removing the access panel just below the filter. This plate will have room for the sensor for the oil temp meter (which you can test in boiling water before fitting) and then this just a matter of getting the wireing in trough the firewall. Use the existing cable path for that.

I just took a black marker and painted the foam black. That kind of did the trick. At least it isn't as easy to spot. But you need to do that once a year as the black from the marker gets eaten by the sun or something..

I'm guessing the aftermarked one is just a "slide on". You cannot replace just the OEM handbrake cover as it is the whole assembly you replace. However, that is not as costly as you would think. I think Whifbitz stock them @ a but under 100£

If you get the same size, i don't see why it should make a difference

I can get you a better pic if you would like to copy the idea. They are rather dark as the car is under cover in a garage these days... Let me know..

Will you take 30£ posted to Denmark?

I found that using the best quality carpet from a reagular carpet store (whatever that is called) resulted in the best result. It nicely blended into the Supras ok carpet quality compared to the stuff you get at auto shops. Also added a luggage net and some leather straps for a bit more contemporary OEM look. The crappy strut bare is actually mainly there to keep baggage from flying through the cabin in case of hard braking and/or to tie things to. http://idisk.me.com/stefanbovien/public/rearseat1.jpg http://idisk.me.com/stefanbovien/public/rearseat2.jpg http://idisk.me.com/stefanbovien/public/rearseat3.jpg

+1 for the CW suspension. I have had a couple others and this is by far the best setup for a well rounded supra. Nice ride height (1 1/2" down IIRC) and not the rock hard ride you would expect for something that actually works quite well for a trackday or two and it is build on quality and comes with a full geo setup if you get Chris to install it

how about those black/grey seats? I'm not especially interested in the cleaning as they would be reopholstered. But are they in good condition? I mean, are the side supports firm and straight? What kind of adjustments do they have?

It most definatly is. Have a look here: http://www.97supraturbo.com/FAQ.html Stu's page has A LOT of info on the sequential system and a good FAQ with pics to troubleshoot after.

Sounds like the valve that controls the transistion is getting a bit dull. I know it can seize but i wonder if it is possible for it to be semi seized? What you describe sound exactly like the BPU transition just slowed down.

Aah.. That probably equates a new gearbox. Probably the cheapest fix. 2-300£ I think. I will drain the oil and check for debris. I hope I can run it through the winter until the soop can take over

Thanks Chris, You mean the inner side CV joint then? Towards the diff? I will have a look as soon as I can get to my jack. Should I worry about sudden and violent failure, wheel joints comming off/locking up? Or will it just get slowly worse and worse?

Thanks man, I'll see what I can find out to check for that!

It would? For sure? My DD (not the soop) have had a high wirring kind of noise for months now. Not getting worse or changing through corners. Pitch changing according to speed. But I have no play in the wheels or no sticking calipers. Can figure whats up. As its a fwd I'm thinking diff (not gearbox as sound doesn't change when declutching) maybe?

I totally agree! Whats up with that carbon fetish. The OEM door cards weigh like nothing, so no real point in them. Find some meaningful placed to use CF in stead (front crash beam, rear hatch and so on). Also, look at how the light is reflected in them. They must be crooked and a very bad fit.

One thing though, you should be able to get the wheel cheaply. Hopefully with ok leather. If not, a good thing about paying for getting the leather done yourself is that you can choose a design. I wanted to have the 3 and 9 o'clock positions in alcantara to fit my seats but they couldn't do that. Got grey stitching in stead. all ok for a reasonable price. But the airbag usually don't come with the wheel though, and that is expensive. Like 250£ from Mr. T... You can get a coverplate for £150 or so to save a bit, but then no airbag...

MR2 and RAV4 wheels also fit. Think they are 100% the same. Get one from 2001-2005 as they are the nicest and later have buttons for radio and so. They are available in leather, and are a staight fit. I got mine in plastic and then got it fitted with leather: http://idisk.me.com/stefanbovien/Public/interior.jpg

^pics, please^

Original: http://www.trdparts.jp/english/parts_aero-supra.html Aprox 9.500 £

Most definately. Read this: http://nurburgring.org.uk/noise.html

Here is some info on extended (and OEM) studs that'll fit the supra: http://www.titanmotorsports.com/arpwheelstuds1.html

Cool! A Supra in Okinawa! Just came back from there a month ago and only saw the tiniest and most boring cars there. Whats up with the max of 40 kph that people drive around with? Everything takes forever to get to... Maybe its just on Ishigaki though.. You soop looks nice (hard to tell really from the night pics) although I'm not too fond of the Ferrari wheel. Makes sense if you are hot into F1 though..

hehe, ok.. other than aesthetic then....

All carbon parts without function (read: replacement with a purpose) are nasty