bodilx6

Great. I will make them to the exact measurements of my plastic rings, that fits very tightly. If all goes wrong, I would guess I just need a bit of sand paper to remove dirt/corrosion in the wheels. Thanks Chris, I'll check how far I can extend the spigot into the wheels. I'm not 100% what you mean with the taper, but I'm guessing you are talking about the angle laid in from the base of the spacer towards the spigot, right? It was a recommendation from the guy who makes them to make them as strong as possible as there is only 67-60.1=6,9mm connecting the "spigot" part to the spacer. He emphasises a way to do it was to use as much angle as the wheel would allow. So we modelled it after a plastic spigot ring that fits tightly to the wheel.

Well, the hubcentric spacers are only for the front wheels. The rings are for the rear...

I'm having some hubcentric spacers made (I know, I know.. it's not advisable but I need room for UK brakes and don't feel like speding 3000£+ for new wheels right now) for my fronts and a pair of rings for the rear. My wheels are with a 67.1 spigot Could I ask you guys to double check the measures below? http://idisk.me.com/stefanbovien/Public/Spacer.jpg http://idisk.me.com/stefanbovien/Public/Ring.jpg It's on purpose that the outer diameter is 67 and not 67.1 as I'm afraid an exact measure of 67.1 would give me issues fitting the wheels as all is made from maximum strength alloy (called 7075). Any thoughts?

If you are using good oil it should be able to take up to 130c. But I would start letting off before then. If you push your car a lot on track/high speed, get a good oil cooler.

The rear calipers are roughly £315 from Mr. T. I bid 200£ including postage to Denmark. But I still don't know if they come with discs and pads?

2nd dibbs on the rears? Any discs and pads with those?

The accelerator will not be removed but as it is rubber, you will just screw the alu pedal on to it. And you can just place this where you want. The brake and clutch are different and you can only place the alu pedals in the holes already there (or drill new ones if you want) I don't have a close up but these pedals are really good. Deep 'tread' so your feet will never slide. And by moving the speedo ½ and inch or less you have perfect heel-toe contact (if your feet are wide )

Got CW pads now on jspec. While they are much better than stock, they also generate a lot of dust. Alternatively I would get CW's AND OEM and then change when I go to track but I was hoping the Red Stuff would be ok. Why are they bad for the soop? I get 15% on all from Mr. T. I havent heard of 30-40% here in DK but its worth asking for

THanks! Already got fresh high quality 5.1 brake fluid and braided lines. Nic, I thought the Shim Kit would also add to a mushy feel up front? I'm going for Red Stuff pads as I track the car once in a while and they should give even less dust than stock. The spring kit, is that the small things that pop the pads from the disc? The Lock kit is a dk-uk translation but OEM parts from toyota suggested when ordering? Don't get it. I'm guessing I won't need caliper refurb kit for the back as that is new but what does it include up front?

I've got: Used front calipers New front pads New front discs New rear calipers New rear pads New rear discs Question is; do I need: Shim kit Lock Kit (don't know what this is) Brake Caliper Overhaul Kit Anything else? (I'm thinking just to keep and cut the original dust guards)

Toyota pedals. Bought from Whifbitz. Straight fit but I moved the speedo a bit closer to the brake to better heel'n'toe... http://idisk.me.com/stefanbovien/Public/interior.jpg

Sold, or? I'm interested from Denmark, if the carpet doesn't have any bald spots or miscolouring..

GREAT! Thanks

No, the gearbox isn't. But everywhere around it, and both selector rod and propeller shafts seems to be nice and clean(ish) around the seals. But the area around the prop shaft seems wet, which makes sence that the oil would be thrown off the shaft due to centrifugal forces. But it is hard to evaluate due to the sealant around the back end of the box and prop shaft...

where do you get metal spigots? Can't find anywhere in size needed (60.1-67.1)

I still can't figure how to tell which is leaking. I only get a drop a day or so and after lying under the car with a lamp I still couldn't figure which is leaking. I can see both the selector input shaft going into the gearbox and the propeller shaft going into the box but none of them seems to have much oil on or near them. The car is undersealed which makes it even worse seing anything. I'm guessing the only way is to get the car on a ramp to get to the hard to reach places and then wipe them completly clean. Is there nothing else there can leak downthere? I have the drops of oil from the absoulte rear of the box on the single "fin" behind the oil drain.

here you go: http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=396382

Found out from supraforums... I've found the shifter seal can just be pushed in a bit and then "double seal" it with the new. But is there any easy yet safe way to remove the prop/DS seal without a special tool? It seems silly to book Toyota for stupid money due to a special tool.

buuuump :-(

I've got a bit of oil bleeding from the back of the gear box. I think its the prop seal, but I don't know where the selector seal is to check that. Per suggestion from an old thread I should wipe the entire area and check. But where do I look for the selector seal? Is that easer to replace than the prop seal and would I avoid removing exhaust, and prop shaft?

Does anyone know about some available REAR UK/EU brakes... sooo hard to find...

Yep, thats what I mean. I would also guess around 10mm but not sure. My jack failed on me the other day, so can't get to it Can anyone confirm the 9mm protrusion from the hub? It's the fronts but that must be the same...

Anybody knows of the top of their head?

Cool, thanks. i'll defo try that...

I've got a bit of light brownish (looks like engine oil) dripping from the bottom "fin" close to the gearbox drain. I can't figure or spot where it is comming from. Isn't it a bit far back to be the rear main seal? I don't seem to be loosing any liquids that are measureable from e engine compartment, but again, is't just a drop now and then. All the area around the rear of the gearbox and drive shaft is smeared, but since the car has been undersealed recently, it's hard to figure what is oil and what is sealant.. How to troubleshoot?