bodilx6

Get a hold for Chris Wilson for one of the best setups so you don't compromise handling..

Jack it up, turn one of the rears by hand. If the other doesnt move, you should be good

These should fit fine. I don't agree with them being skinny as they are close to stock except for the slightly more agressive offset. Don't go lower in offset.

Info on the process here: http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=396382

Don't remember. I sent mine directly to the sander/painter for antrasite paint :-) Your lexus dealer would be able to find this. My best guess would be that the have that as the only type.

Regarding the hesistation on the transistion to the 2nd turbo; that could sound like something strange in the vacuum system, VSVs or EGCV or EBV. But a bit strange since you havent messed with anything in the vacuum system (or have you?) Take a look here for A LOT of info on the vacuum system and troubleshooting it: http://www.97supraturbo.com/FAQ.html I have neved installed a boost controller (I just have a restriction in the exhaust), but you might want to try and remove that to eliminate that as a possible issue.

Thats the ones. They are 8.5" front and 10" back. TTE in Germany has shut down shop but you should be able to get them from new through a Lexus dealer. Price is roughly 1000-1200£ i think.

Well, how about just getting the TTE/Lexus grand stands that already are the right size? 8.5" front and 10" rear? Lots of info on them if you search. I just bought some used. I would not recommend to widen the rear. I'm not saying it wouldn't work, but I myself would not like the uncertainty when driving on track or speeding down the autobahn @ 150mph+... If you don't do that, then go for it. But hey, 9.5 or 10 doesnt make too much of a difference. Why not stick to stock? Or take the .5" to fit some wider wheels for show. I would check the offset first off to see if that is close to stock. If not I would think about going for other wheels. The Grand Stands are ok regarding offset. +40/45 to my recollection. Also think of the offset if you widen the wheels, depending on how it is done this might change and you might not want that.

FMIC shouldn't increase your boost. Where do you measure your boost level? If you run 1.1 bar on a stock car, you should hit fuel cut 1 sec after you cross the 1 bar mark. And btw, why install a FMIC on a stock car?

FMIC shouldn't increase your boost. Where do you measure your boost level? If you run 1.1 bar on a stock car, you should hit fuel cut 1 sec after you cross the 1 bar mark. And btw, why install a FMIC on a stock car?

You will never be able to launch optimal without spin.. Spin is neccesary to make to correct transision between power, grip and traction. Also as mentioned above, should you be able to do a launch without spin from 4000+ rpm, you will only make the one... And R888 only in the back? Makes no sense at all. R888 are track/handling tyres. Not for doing launches. You want drag radials for that. Doing R888 in the back and regular tyres up front will correspond to running skinny winter tires front and wiiiiiide performance tyres rear and screw up the grip dynamics of the car.

correct. Stock sizes can be seen here: http://mkiv.com/specifications/93_full_brochure/page24.jpg

No, the IS-F wheels are available for purchase through your Lexus/Toyota dealer. They are expensive and only 19" (which make them not very optimal for the soop)

1 - as Christian said. It sounds like a fuel issue. I would pop the hood and go listen. If the engine drowns out the noise, you can get a cheap "point-stethoscope" at a well assorted auto acc shop and then see if you can find it. If it is from the front its not the pump as that is in your tank. 2 - could be A LOT of things. If it was from the back, it would be a common supra thing, the rubber stoppers in the hatch. If it is from the front, it might be your suspension, but it is hard to tell as it is only there at certain bumps, right? I would get the car on a lift and then go poke around to see if any thing moves where it shouldn't. Check ball joints, droplinks and generally look if you have any leaks from dampers or how your bump stops look. They might have come loose or have broken. That can give the sound you describe. 3 - if you park a somewhere silent, put the car in neutral and press the clutch, it goes away? then when you let it in, you get a bit more sound. That is normal. But you shouldn't hear anything while driving. The 6sp box can make a lot of funky noises as it is build like a tank, but usually only when shifting or (de)clutching. This can be a bit more tricky, so maybe you should get someone who knows their supra stuff to take a look at the gear box through the inspection holes that you can get to by removing a couple of covers on the bell housing. Not being UK I can't say for sure but I have great experiences with Paul Whiffin of Whifbitz and Chris Wilson. Do a search on both here on forum for more info. Whifbitz being an online shop and Chris being a hard core tech/suspension guru.

1 - where is this coming from? Can it be the fuel pump? 2 - again, where? Is it from the suspension, dash, gearbox? 3 - is this while driving or at idle? In gear or neutral?

Is the rear hub hand brake assembly the same spec and proportions on j-spec vs UK/EU spec? There is no modification needed to upgrade from j-spec rear brakes to UK/EU? (Except for the dust guard and so)

Antracite. Don't go all black but get a contrast to the car. Maybe antracite and polished lip.

If you look at current cars you have more details in the design as well as more "edgy" lines. Now, thats hard to get working with the supras soft lines but you can do a few things to make it more "up-to-date". The wheels from the lambo won't work. Completly different cars. But take a look at the Trial rear end with a diffuser. This will make the rear end look more current especially without a wing as you mention. Front wise, you have a limited offer of bumpers as most offered for the supra includes huge scoops, bad taste and room to "show off" the FMIC. This is NOT what you are looking for. Take a look at the Ridox front, that incorporates a bit more "edge" but sticks to the supra lines. Then you need some subtle skirts without any additional lines in them. Just to keep the back and front "together". And please; don't even look at TS, Veilside or all the other things with scoops and vents. Not that there is anything wrong with them (well, actually...) but it is not what you are looking for. Get some simple wheels, don't go 20" or so as that really doesn't fit the car design wise (or dynamically). I would look at iForged as you can get them made to fit and they have a simple, clean design available. Debadge what you can and don't fall for cheap things. Getting the car to look contemporary OEM and up to date will cost you. Also go for what you can on the interior. but DONT stick carbon things or weird thrim in there. The best thing to do to get an exclusive, new feel can be to get the dash, trim and doors in alcantara, black or grey. But that will cost you. Alternativly get all new panels. Some Cobra seats, sparco Milano or so but stick to the color scheme of the interior. New wheel (celica/rav4 ->05, TRD) but stay OEM. j_jza80 also have a good plan but that won't seperate you from a lot of other supras. Also stick to a "stylish" color. Don't go bright in any way. Black, gray Quicksilver works. To hit that "contemporary" look, you will need to appeal to masses and not just your own taste. That can be hard thing to do....

Quick question: Does the UK rear brakes include drums, shoes and all? Or will I use the ones in my j-spec setup?

Should probably have done that yeah. Sorry. Had most of what I needed there, but as I got the calipers now and found a few questions, I started a new one. Consistency is a great thing though, so I'm fairly sure of what to order now :-) Thanks again

Great, thanks. Found this: 04479-14140 Front Brake Caliper Overhaul Kit and: 04945-14110 Toyota Front Brake Shim Kit (anti squeal shims for pads) 04947-14010 Toyota Front Brake Fitting Kit (spring fittings for pads) 04948-14010 Toyota Rear Brake Fitting Kit (spring fittings for pads) I wouldn't bother with rear shim kit, better brake feel without them.

Thanks. I would guess this was the "shim kit" but I will look into that. Anything else? (I was thinking bolts and stuff to actually fit calipers and discs and so on, but also the 'small things' like this)

To convert from jspec to UK/EU i need what? Front/rear calipers front/rear dics front/rear pads front/rear shim kit front/rear "lock set" - don't know what this is, but Toyota quoted me for it when I asked for brake pricing As I've bought used front calipers (for 50£) I should get a "restoration kit". I haven't been able to find any info on this on the forum. Any idea of what it is called in english? I would love a guide to renovate the calipers. Also, only thing I got with my calipers were 4 long bolts (guessing these are to fit the pads and a single weird clip and one screw. Will I get ALL I need to install them with shim/lock kits or do I need extra parts to fit them in place of my j-specs? http://idisk.me.com/stefanbovien/Public/brakes/studs.jpg Looks better after a bit of grinding and painting: http://idisk.me.com/stefanbovien/Public/brakes/calipers.jpg Just need some decals and a clear coat after getting them renovated (heard that I probably will blow some brake fluid out while doing this - possibly messing up the paint / clear coat)

Better to fit it behind the passenger seat within the wheel base if you are going for best possible weight distribution...

Prices seems about right compared to what I have received from Toyota her in Denmark. It's like 10-15% more expesive here, but thats the norm..