Jump to content
The mkiv Supra Owners Club

BPU (Basic Performance Upgrade)


Recommended Posts

Right I'm currently ordering parts from whifbitz for a full BPU.

 

I've got a 96 J-spec RZ-S, I already have a Blitz Nur spec cat back system fitted, so I'm after:

 

HKS FCD

 

Question is what grade plugs do I go for?

 

Grade 7's. Check out the spark plug FAQ for well documented info on the subject.

 

I'd always go with a GReddy BCC (another name for an FCD) over the HKS FCD because of the method it uses to fool the stock ECU on the airflow signal.

 

Cheers,

 

Brian.

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 3 months later...
  • Replies 188
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Massive apologies if this has been answered either on this thread or elsewhere, I've searched solid, I promise :innocent:!

 

Anyway, as I'm hoping to go BPU by the summer, I was just wondering what type of fuel I should be aiming to use? Does it not change from what I've always done - use the best at whatever station I'm at, or should I really be looking to use v-power for example, when I do eventually go BPU.

 

Thanks guys, again apologies if already answered.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Simply use the higest octane fuel available to you. Shell v-power, BP Ultimate, etc. As always, ensure you have an AFR (worry gauge) to keep an eye on the levels and if it gets beyond limits back off.

 

I wouldn't recommend it though if only low octane is avaiable, unless the car has an aftermarket ECU & map at higher boost pressures (1.1 and above) it's *needed* to use high octane fuel. Peak power is not the issue, it's the switch-over point that causes det.

Link to post
Share on other sites
Simply use the higest octane fuel available to you. Shell v-power, BP Ultimate, etc. As always, ensure you have an AFR (worry gauge) to keep an eye on the levels and if it gets beyond limits back off.

 

I wouldn't recommend it though if only low octane is avaiable, unless the car has an aftermarket ECU & map at higher boost pressures (1.1 and above) it's *needed* to use high octane fuel. Peak power is not the issue, it's the switch-over point that causes det.

 

Thanks for the reply Homer, good to know :).

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 1 month later...
  • 2 months later...

Can someone answer me this, as there seems to be some differences of opinion.

 

I am BPU'ing my 1998 VTT-i Twin Turbo.

 

I need to know if I need a Fuel Cut Defender or not.

 

If I don't fit it and run the car without it will it get damaged?

 

Any advice would be appreciated and is rather urgent due to attending Japfest tomorrow.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Just about to go BPU and I have a couple of questions both relating to the ristrictor ring.

 

With the restrictor ring in with a hole of say 2 inches, is there any real point or advantage with a 3" exhaust, surely the ring becomes the most restrictive point and any advantage of a big bore exhaust after the ring is lost?

 

If I use 3" decat pipes and then have the ring between the second decat and the exhaust, surely when the engine is suddenley revved hard, until the pressure is built up between the turbos and the restrictor ring it is possible to overboost?

 

I know this is all proven territory and don't question it works as of course it does but as I was looking at the 3" decat pipes I bought for mine these questions just sprang to mind.

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 1 month later...

I've a question about my BPU setup.

I've got an Apexi S-AFC, it came with the car uninstalled.

I'm happy to install it myself but having read through the foum some people suggest that there's no point fitting one with a BPU setup.

Can the S-AFC improve things or should I just forget about it?

 

I've got stock turbos and was hoping to usually limit boost to 1.0 bar and occasionally go up to 1.2 bar.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I'd say there's definitely gains to be had but the ECU or piggyback needs to have decent resolution mapping wise to really get the most out of the sequential setup to optimise the fuelling and timing across the rev range.

Link to post
Share on other sites
I'd say there's definitely gains to be had but the ECU or piggyback needs to have decent resolution mapping wise to really get the most out of the sequential setup to optimise the fuelling and timing across the rev range.

 

Is there anything you could recommend?

I want to keep costs down but at the same time I'm willing to spend enough to get something proper.

Thanks for the advice.

Link to post
Share on other sites
Is there anything you could recommend?

I want to keep costs down but at the same time I'm willing to spend enough to get something proper.

Thanks for the advice.

 

Would recommend looking at one of the SYVEC ECU's that Ryan does as these seem very comprehensive and would be future proofed if you went single at a later date.

 

The Whifbitz Time Attack cars both run this ECU to good effect and it also has goodies such as traction control and boost control involved.

 

Have a look under 2 bar tuning as a trader and see what you think.

 

There are other options but Ryan sets these up perfectly and the piece of mind having UK support both with the manufacturer and tuner appeals to me.

 

Will be what I go for when I get my next one! :)

 

Just my opinion by the way.

 

Pete

Link to post
Share on other sites

Syvecs is an excellent choice if you're going standalone, also with good recent write-ups is the AEM piggyback which is probably more appropriate if you're auto. RyanG on this forum likes to map both of those choices.

 

Other piggybacks I like are the GReddy emanage ultimate and the MAP-ECU2.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Cheers Peter.

TDR, you got it just before me. :)

I've just read all of Ryan's threads on the Solaris and the AEM FIC.

I agree with you, I think the AEM is much more suitable for me.

My aim is for a good, reliable BPU setup giving me around 400BHP.

I may go for a single setup in the future but it's a long way off.

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 1 month later...

sorry if this is an obvious question but I wasn't totally sure after reading through this.

Does a jspec require a restrictor ring if you're fitting an electronic boost controller ??

Is it ok to run both ?? (I'm guessing yes but just want to double check)

Link to post
Share on other sites
sorry if this is an obvious question but I wasn't totally sure after reading through this.

Does a jspec require a restrictor ring if you're fitting an electronic boost controller ??

Is it ok to run both ?? (I'm guessing yes but just want to double check)

 

It's 'best' to run both really. Most people will fit a 1.0 or 1.1 bar restrictor ring and then use the EBC to raise it to 1.2 bar when required.

Without a restrictor ring the boost can go through the roof causing your turbos to pop.

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 4 months later...
  • 1 month later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue. You might also be interested in our Guidelines, Privacy Policy and Terms of Use.