Scott Posted April 19, 2015 Share Posted April 19, 2015 Thanks for the great input Scott. While I am confident and experienced with installing electrics in cars, I haven't done much circuit design. Sorry if I'm being stupid, but where in that thread does it say the switch is rated for the seat heater circuit? Would it not be best to still use a couple of relays, to increase the life of the switch if nothing else? It certainly won't do any harm to use relays J. All I would say is that you would be adding a fair whack of wiring and the additional relays that are tricky to tidy up neatly. Using the switch with some direct feeds would be a very neat install. Is getting a spare switch difficult? You could suck it and see with a direct feed, if it burns out (highly unlikely) then install the relay solution It doesn't say that it's rated for it, but there is a certain air of confidence in the installation and no mention of later in the thread, that's got to be good Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j_jza80 Posted April 19, 2015 Author Share Posted April 19, 2015 I agree, it seems that no relays are necessary. But I'm not happy plumbing it in and hoping for the best, I will source another switch and *thoroughly* test it before installing. Thanks again for your input. Oh, I'm going to PM you RE; headlights Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j_jza80 Posted April 20, 2015 Author Share Posted April 20, 2015 She's gone to the paintshop this morning, so there won't be that much going on over the next week. I will probably spray my APR cooling panel with black plastidip, and do a few odd jobs to the bits I have here. In addition to the sills and bumpers, I decided to get the area surrounding the boot seal sprayed too, as corrosion was just starting to show on the lip the seal sits on. I'm glad I did now, as we discovered this when the bootlid was removed... This appears to be a very common issue with imported Supras, thankfully it is only just starting, so it will easily be sorted. But I would recommend that you check this area on your own Supras, as it could potentially cause a huge bill! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j_jza80 Posted April 20, 2015 Author Share Posted April 20, 2015 Before and after of my newly Plastidip'd APR Cooling panel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supra_ufo Posted April 20, 2015 Share Posted April 20, 2015 is that real carbon? why would you cover it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j_jza80 Posted April 20, 2015 Author Share Posted April 20, 2015 The design of the APR plate is fantastic, but the high gloss carbon looks a bit out of place in an otherwise stock engine bay. Plus, the reason I used Plastidip is so that I can revert to carbon easily. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted April 20, 2015 Share Posted April 20, 2015 The design of the APR plate is fantastic, but the high gloss carbon looks a bit out of place in an otherwise stock engine bay. Plus, the reason I used Plastidip is so that I can revert to carbon easily. I ditched the carbon look on my ARP plate too. Really don't like carbon at all. Loved the cover though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j_jza80 Posted April 23, 2015 Author Share Posted April 23, 2015 The car is still in the paintshop, but it's going to be gone longer than expected due to some imperfections he's found in the paint. But I'd rather it sorted properly while he has it, rather than it have to go in again. In the meantime, I removed the rear crash bar, and have dropped it off with a local firm to be shot blasted. You can see why... I'm going to give it a decent dose of Hammerite when it gets back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j_jza80 Posted May 5, 2015 Author Share Posted May 5, 2015 So I finally picked the car up from the paint shop today, and I'm very happy with the results. List of work: - Resprayed front bumper - Resprayed both rear quarters - Resprayed sills - touched up some minor stonechip marks on the front wings - polished headlights - painted the vertical support for the front bumper trim - resprayed inside of boot opening, inc the seam the boot seal sits on Needless to say it looks fantastic But you'll have to wait until I've finished putting it together for more pics Otherwise my brand new Bride seat rails arrived today, thanks again to Paul @ Whifbitz for brilliant service as usual. As soon as I unpacked them, I took an angle grinder to them Notice that one has two cross bars, and one only has one. Removing the rearmost one was necessary to clear my seats. And test fitting one in the car Thankfully they fit perfectly Both bride frames weigh less than the OEM Recaro rail I had which is a bonus too Other than that, I got my rear crash bar back from shotblasting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j_jza80 Posted May 7, 2015 Author Share Posted May 7, 2015 Been doing a lot of work on the car over the last couple of days, but unfortunately didn't get pics of a lot of it: - Boost controller fully installed - Whifbitz SMIC installed with HKS hardpipe kit, samco hoses and Murray constant tension clamps. - active spoiler installed - refitted front bumper - fitted hockey sticks and side trims - new battery fitted (didn't want to risk my imminent 2000 mile drive on an old battery ) - APR plate fitted What I have gathered from this is what an awful job replacing the undertrays is! Getting them to line up properly is a big PITA!!! Anyways, some pics... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kitch79 Posted May 7, 2015 Share Posted May 7, 2015 Get ya wheels on [emoji12] Looks strange without the 'T' badge on a stock bumper, you putting it back on? Like the APR plate [emoji106] I hated fitting my active spoiler and under crap ha. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MattP Posted May 7, 2015 Share Posted May 7, 2015 I hope you invested in an aluminium undertray instead of that horrid plastic tray... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j_jza80 Posted May 7, 2015 Author Share Posted May 7, 2015 Get ya wheels on [emoji12] Looks strange without the 'T' badge on a stock bumper, you putting it back on? Like the APR plate [emoji106] I hated fitting my active spoiler and under crap ha. The wheels still aren't back, but they should be on the car on Monday When the bumper was resprayed, I had him fill the badge holes. This way I can stick a badge on if I want, but I like it the way it is Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j_jza80 Posted May 7, 2015 Author Share Posted May 7, 2015 I hope you invested in an aluminium undertray instead of that horrid plastic tray... I will get one at some point, but I've spent enough for now. The undertrays were actually in very good condition Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j_jza80 Posted May 7, 2015 Author Share Posted May 7, 2015 I've just started with the wiring loom for using the stock heated seat switch with my seat heaters. This is what a £40 wiring plug looks like... So I unwrap them, and find that the metal plugs wouldn't fit into the plastic block Thankfully, by trimming the back of the metal plugs they fitted perfectly. a before and after, the bottom one is the modified one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
abtin90 Posted May 7, 2015 Share Posted May 7, 2015 Great attention all to detail. Really impressed by the ideas and workmanship. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j_jza80 Posted May 14, 2015 Author Share Posted May 14, 2015 So today I got my Bosch 044 fitted. As per THIS thread, I wanted to run uprated wiring all the way from the battery to the pump, and do away with the restrictive and possibly hazardous stock connector. So this is what the top of the tank looks like after the cover is removed. Note that the new wiring can be seen with part of the Clubman connector on it. This is the bulkhead fitting that goes into the fuel tank. I have used 27amp cable from the quick release connector, through the bulkhead fitting and onto the pump. Just to future proof. And this is it attached to the pump hanger. I had to drill a 17mm hole to accommodate the bulkhead fitting. There is only really one place that the bulkhead connector will fit, as not only do you need to avoid clashing with the other hoses and components on the hanger, but the cover won't go back on if you mount it at one side. I then modified the stock hanger to accept the 044 pump, and held it in position with some heavy duty cable ties The wiring for the pump is 17amp (IIRC), straight from the battery to the clubman quick release connector. It runs through a 30amp relay that I have mounted behind the rear pass. rear quarter card. The Relay is switched from the blue/red fuel pump output wire from the fuel pump ECU. It is all fitted, and works perfectly. My only observations are that the Bosch 044 is a noisy pump (It is more twice the size of the stock pump though!), and that during use the relay in the pump wiring clicks every so often. I will probably resort to sound deadening, and with it being a daily the noise will get irritating quickly! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j_jza80 Posted May 14, 2015 Author Share Posted May 14, 2015 In other news, I've had a bit of a nightmare with some other things. The HKS Speed Limit Defencer would not work, and was stopping the gearbox from working properly. I have removed it for now, and everything is fine. I will attempt to sort it soon, but it was sorely missed tonight as I was out setting up the boost controller, and hit 112mph racing a JCW Mini coupe At least I was well past him when the speed limiter hit The heated seats. What a nightmare. Either the switch I bought is faulty, or the wiring pinout I found online is wrong. When I connected it up, none of the lights would come on when they were supposed to, and it blew the dash illumination fuse. I think it has also killed the dash dimmer switch, which was boiling hot earlier and stopped working. I will have to rig up something to test it thoroughly before I try again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrboomberang Posted May 16, 2015 Share Posted May 16, 2015 I was just about to ask how you got on with the delimiter as i took mine for dyno the other week the guy had bother getting the power down i thought this might be the answer but looking at your post obviously not if you solve the problem let me know and if your going to race do as I do make sure to start at low speed blow them away drop back give them a smile as they pass always works for me they know they have been pumped Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j_jza80 Posted May 24, 2015 Author Share Posted May 24, 2015 (edited) Time for an update I got the suspension and brakes fitted this week, and what a difference it had made. Just to recap, I've gone for brand new stock UK brakes all round with goodridge lines, and for the suspension I've gone with OEM Bilsteins with Eibach pro springs. The car now corners flat, and while the suspension is firmer, it still absorbs the bumps pretty well. Of all the suspension setups I've run on my Supras, this is definitely the best compromise for daily driving. And as for the brakes, the UKs are only getting into their stride at the point the j-specs have had enough, so again I'm really happy with the improvement. This is currently how she looks I have also just installed an ETTC switch, which for those of you who aren't aware, is a switch that allows me to switch the turbos between sequential and parallel. The main reason I've done it is for a bit of fun occasionally, especially for tunnels It's great to be able to change the character of the car so much at the flick of a switch. I also hear that it improves cruising fuel economy, which I will test on my imminent European road trip. This is the guide I used for the ETTC mod: http://www.internetwork.org.uk/electrical/ettc/ettc.htm The only problem with that guide is that the ECU wiring is different on the VVTI models. The Intake VSV wire (VSV1) you need to splice is on block B74 pin 5 which is a green-black wire, and the exhaust VSV wire (VSV2) is on block B75 pin 3 which is a green-yellow wire. Edited May 24, 2015 by j_jza80 (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
abtin90 Posted May 24, 2015 Share Posted May 24, 2015 Great update will be a stunner once the LM's are fitted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j_jza80 Posted May 24, 2015 Author Share Posted May 24, 2015 That *may* happen tomorrow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
abtin90 Posted May 24, 2015 Share Posted May 24, 2015 That *may* happen tomorrow Looking forward to the pictures Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j_jza80 Posted May 26, 2015 Author Share Posted May 26, 2015 Well, I finally got my BBS LM's on. The offsets are a bit ridiculous But I'm happy with it. Going to replace the inner front wing bolts with something with rounded heads. Otherwise I think it will be alright, and I'm glad I got Al Massey to roll the rear arches now! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ripped_fear Posted May 26, 2015 Share Posted May 26, 2015 WOW that car is somthing else. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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