Dnk
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Everything posted by Dnk
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Just print off a conversion table and pop it in your toolbox
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It will smoke on start up if it needs new vss's and hardly a major drama as long as the buyer allows for the cost of the job changing them.
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They do a pro wrench that goes from 8nm to 60nm which is what you'll need for lots of applications such as the caliper bolts, cam cover bolts etc etc If your planning on doing all you own work i'd splash out and buy the 8 - 60 and the 60 - 300 If you look on the home page in the top left corner click on repair manuals and pretty much most things to do on a mkiv are covered inc torque figures Just to give you an idea, the cam cover bolts are 8mn, wheel nuts are 105nm approx and the crank pulley nut is 330nm
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This theory is simply asking for trouble and depending on what your actually tightening up will bite you in the ass sooner or later. You can apply way more torque to a bolt or nut than it should have very easily, all your doing is stretching the thread though risking it failing straight away or at a later date.
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You shouldn't be using the cone type nuts on stock rims as they're only contacting on the corner of the holes in the wheel which really isn't a good idea. I've done a sketch showing this hopefully, the o/e nut in blue and how it locates inside the holes in the wheel and in red how it will sit on the corner of the hole in a stock rim and how it should be in a custom rim.
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Get some corse wet n dry flatting paper, hold it onto a flat surface then hold the pad face down and rub back and forth till the pad face is free of any grooves etc and they'll be fine on new discs
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Its sold
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I've never seen this type of cracking on uk spec discs even after a lot of laps one year on the Donington gp circuit which has some pretty heavy braking sections
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Its pretty straight forward to be honest, here's some of mine if it helps
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Anyone know what this part is? Urgent advice please :)
Dnk replied to rob_sri's topic in mkiv Technical
Or replace with good quality silicon hose which you can get from lots of suppliers, just type silicon hose into google and you'll get sfsperformance.co.uk viperperformance.co.uk siliconhoses.com etc etc I have 10 litres of Coolred coolant you have for £20, under half price. I'd replace all the hoses if it were mine -
What wheel nuts are you using, the stock nuts have a square shoulder and most custom alloys have a 60 degree cone so i assume you have two sets of wheel nuts ? I've attached 2 pics showing the difference. My apologies if you know this already but just trying to cover the basics as quite a few don't.
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The wheels would have to be loose for it to be because of no spigot rings, i ran my car without rear spigot rings for a while and didn't get any clonking or any other issues with 11.5" wide 19's I 'd get it on a ramp and do a thorough check as anyone on here will just be guessing as it could be a number of things from simple to serious
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Give them to a profesional polisher
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Fixes cracked blocks ? they should call it Jesus juice
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If you can get the head to a machine shop you could get them to pop it on a milling machine table and run a dti clock or verdict clock along its length and width. This would only take minutes to do and you'd probably get it done for a tenner This would tell you very accurately if the head is warped, i think 0.1 mm or 0.0039" is Toyotas guide figure for max warp
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Approx £550 the last time in enquired which was earlier this year
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I'm glad to hear your going to drive it
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What a shame, it should be out in the sun being driven
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Corby http://www.rockingham.co.uk
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Post some close up photos of your calipers through the wheels and we can let you know what you have. Is your car totally stock ? For example does it have an airbox or induction kit, is it running higher boost
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Its going to be hot with or without turbos, the stock thermostat is 82 C, have you ever tried touching a kettle while its getting close to boiling ?
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The outlet on the rad should be colder than the inlet as that's how the system flows, the hot coolant goes in at the top of the rad then through the rad down to the bottom cooling as it goes then back into the engine through the thermostat. The stock temp for the stat is 82 degrees
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If you are definitely losing coolant from the expansion tank then you have a problem or the system is self bleeding. It should stop self bleeding once any air is out of the system and if you continue to see the level in the expansion tank drop then there is another issue. What rad do you have now and do you have a new stock pressure rated rad cap fitted to it How much are you losing after the little drive ?
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Just drive it and keep an eye on the temp gauge, also check the expansion tank once the engine has cooled to make sure your not losing coolant. The system if all is working as it should will self bleed
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If you have a hot heater then there must be coolant in the system to feed the heater Does your car temp stay normal when you drive. Has the expansion tank been refitted and filled approx half full
