Tricky-Ricky

Well not quite but check this thread out;) http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=57398

Yeah i know the drill, but i may have to play safe for a bit while my finances recover once i have paid for my Supra;)

How about BHP hadyn? will the pump of puff at about 80 BHP above std to? like the s14? Got interrupted by the misses while writing this! so i find my questions answered! thanks guys:)

Where are the std breather pipes connected? and just how much oil will normally gets passed into the intake system?

Can anyone tell me at what sort of BHP does the std jap spec fuel pump run out of puff? and what sort of millage do the start to get tired?

Won't look half bad with a decent kit on it;)

How the hell do you tell the difference? aren't there plenty of fiber glass copy's about?

I went and had a look at this last Sunday, its in OK condition and drove well on the very short test drive! thers nowhere to open it up in Croydon:search: the engine was hot when i started it:eyebrows: its very quiet and clean but i was suspicious of the white staining on the bonnet liner! looked like it could have had a past overheat problem! other that that it seemed fine but i'm a little suspicious, but that might just be me;) Oh and its got a boost controller fitted but the cats are still in place. and the colour is MSB!

As i have said before these are very good and will allow you to run four different temp probes, and one gauge, the only drawback is you can only view two at a time! http://redlinegauges.com/product_info.php?cPath=15&products_id=31&dfwtekid=ac6b6225dff1c7b20781f71e7b957472

I know what your saying and looked at that link, and i still can't get my head around how when its a + offset reducing the offset from 50 to 30 pushes the wheel farther out, i'm looking at it in this way, you have a wheel fitted to a car, and with a + offset totalling 50, made up of a 30mm offset built into the wheel and a 20mm offset made up by a spacer! if you remove the spacer which way does the wheel move?? now my logic says inwards! but i am seeing a + offset as the hub mounting face projecting beyond the centre line towards the inside of the wheel closer to the suspension therefore moving the wheel outwards towards the arch, and - offset as the hub mounting face receding from the centre line towards the outside of the wheel, so as offset is reduced from + to - the wheel moves further inwards! now to me that make perfect sense! but other info presented seem to point to the opposite???

I think the SF Challenge wheels look great, but my favorits are the five spoke deep dish works wheels that where on the red Supra that someone posted a pic of, but i can't find right now.

LOL see my edit to my last post:) like i said i don't mean to be argumentative either, in fact i'm enjoying the discussion, but i think we are coming at the problem from such different angles, i'm not altogether sure we can agree, in fact having just re read your last post i still think you have it around the wrong way! perhaps we need some outside input to try and get a different perspective? then again it will probably just confuse things more! so maybe we will have to just disagree:)

And sorry for the blatant hijack wkdtime:innocent: hopefully it will help clear thing up for you in the end;)

One last try! i'm not meaning to be argumentative, i would just like get the whole wheel offset thing cleared up:)

Sorry but PCD refers to pitch circle diameter and is nothing to do with offset, but refers to the spacing of the stud holes! but i think you are getting my drift:)

My way of thinking is that you can add a piggyback or stand alone as soon as you think its necessary to change fueling, bigger injectors ect, due to fitting bigger turbos or upping boost, PFC for instance is not that expensive, but remapping can become so, as it needs to be done at every major change, i personally don't have to much problem as i am capable of mapping my own, i'm sure there are others here who have the equipment and are also able to do this?

So in this case if you add more to the inside face of the mounting surface it will move the wheel more toward the wheel arch! as it also moves the outside rim surface toward the inside of the wheel arch!? are we in agreement ?

Either i'm going stupid in my old age or they have got that wrong on that site! which if you read the first part and then go on to read the last they have defiantly cocked up! i know from past tuning of front wheel drive vehicles that most run a negative offset, which is necessary due to steering angles to avoid torque steer, if you use a positive offset on FWD you will get bad torque steer and odd steering characteristics! are we agreed that this diagram is correct?? http://www.tireguides.com/images/offset.jpg

Nooooo:blink:

Sorry but you still have it arse about face! the picture on that link is referring to a negative offset as a starting point! which will cause the affect you describe above:)

That pic above is a little deceptive:blink: and if you look its because the centre line and the offset line are reversed to this pic.

Unfortunately "they" seem to do it to all cars:( I'm sure I have seen a pic somewhere of a Ferrari and a Bentley:rolleyes: with lambo doors!

Sorry but if you take a look at your other pic it says your wrong! this pic is a negative offset.

So hopefully the picture will be self explanatory!

That pic depicts a negative offset!