Tricky-Ricky

I was talking about the EGT sensor not wideband! if you place a wideband sensor to close to the turbo, it will cause overheat errors, the best place if you still have a cat is just before it, but you may still suffer from overheat errors (odd readings) you can fit a heat shield, that may help, i needed one and my sensor is a good 2.5 feet from the turbo, if you have no cats then anywhere thats not to close to turbo or tailpipe, and i would recommend the innovate on the data log feature and the logworks software, you can log six different inputs, very useful:yes: an EGT gauge can wait, especially if your not going to place the thermocouple before the turbos, otherwise it just guesswork.

Thanks! just confirms what i was thinking, now i have my sensible head back on! so i think its going to have to be get a loan or sell my s14 first.

Inovate wideband, EGT is only really useful if it fitted in the right place, before the turbos, which is risky as the thermocouples have been know to break! so it can be by by tubby! and although they can give an indication of fueling, they are just as susceptible to timing changes.

Sure i can't tempt you with a very nice S14? cheaper insurance!

The bodywork is already fixed,although there are a couple of small dents, its the motor that is my concern, and although the compression figures are good the cylinder difference is a worry! it won't be a cash buy, its a possible ex/px for my s14 Silvia which i have put a lot of time effort and money into,and i think its worth between 6.5 to 7.5K but its not that often that someone with a Supra wants to ex/px, so i have to be realistic about my options, unless there is anyone on here that wants a 350bhp s14?

OK thanks, i have now posted in technical to:yes: really need some feedback on this, as its a possible ex/px for my s14 Silvia which i have put a lot of time effort and money into, and its not that often that someone with a Supra wants to ex/px, unless there is anyone on here that wants a 350bhp s14?

In need of some feedback on this, when to view a GZ TT Auto today, discovered it had some accident damage at some point, mainly cosmetic so far as i could see, ding to nearside rear quarter, and a curious one above the drivers side quarter light? its also had a blow over as well underneath was OK no chassis damage that i could see, drove fine if a little heavy on the steering, felt strong, got 76 K (i think) on it but there is no record of the klm before it was converted! stamped service history from when it entered UK in 97, but on looking in the oil filler it looked a bit to much crud build up for very regular oil changes, not terrible but nowhere near as clean as my 80K s14! are Supras prone to this? also did a compression test with some strange results as follows after a good run, got: 1ST dry test in bar 1=13.5 2=12.0 3=12.6 4=12.8 5=13.1 6=10.5 !! so tried again and got 11.2 1ST wet test 1=14.0 2=13.1 3=13.4 4=11.3!!!?? 5=13.7 6=12.7 2AND wet test, as i wasn't sure if there was a slight leak from seal! 1=14.1 2=13.9 3=13.8 4=12.1!! had another go and got 12.5 5=14.1 6=13.2 as you can see they are good overall, but a bit to much of a gap between cylinders, or is this more common? looks a bit like it could be sticky rings? no signs of smoke, a little oil in pipe to air filter but i have seen similar with no problem, now i have no great problem with the past damage, as it looks like its been done OK, and i can do bodywork and spray anyway! but its the engine that concerns me, its pretty quiet, but after its been run it has what i would describe as a rising and falling drone, like a pulley bearing, or droning belt! but it seems to come from the rear of the engine??? Now as this is a possible exchange/px for my very modded S14, i need some Supra experienced persons opinion? also its priced at 7750 which i'm now don't think it worth now i have seen it! your comments appreciated, sorry for the long post, i have posted this in Supra chat also, as i thought more people would see it. --------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Happy new year guys hic!

In need of some feedback on this, when to view a GZ TT Auto today, discovered it had some accident damage at some point, mainly cosmetic so far as i could see, ding to nearside rear quarter, and a curious one above the drivers side quarter light? its also had a blow over as well underneath was OK no chassis damage that i could see, drove fine if a little heavy on the steering, felt strong, got 76 K (i think) on it but there is no record of the klm before it was converted! stamped service history from when it entered UK in 97, but on looking in the oil filler it looked a bit to much crud build up for very regular oil changes, not terrible but nowhere near as clean as my 80K s14! are Supras prone to this? also did a compression test with some strange results as follows after a good run, got: 1ST dry test in bar 1=13.5 2=12.0 3=12.6 4=12.8 5=13.1 6=10.5 !! so tried again and got 11.2 1ST wet test 1=14.0 2=13.1 3=13.4 4=11.3!!!?? 5=13.7 6=12.7 2AND wet test, as i wasn't sure if there was a slight leak from seal! 1=14.1 2=13.9 3=13.8 4=12.1!! had another go and got 12.5 5=14.1 6=13.2 as you can see they are good overall, but a bit to much of a gap between cylinders, or is this more common? looks a bit like it could be sticky rings? no signs of smoke, a little oil in pipe to air filter but i have seen similar with no problem, now i have no great problem with the past damage, as it looks like its been done OK, and i can do bodywork and spray anyway! but its the engine that concerns me, its pretty quiet, but after its been run it has what i would describe as a rising and falling drone, like a pulley bearing, or droning belt! but it seems to come from the rear of the engine??? Now as this is a possible exchange/px for my very modded S14, i need some Supra experienced persons opinion? also its priced at 7750 which i'm now don't think it worth now i have seen it! your comments appreciated, sorry for the long post, and it here because i thought more people might take a look.

Just been reading through this post, interesting! so is the general consensus that the Ultimate works on the Supra? I had a very annoying experience with the Ultimate on my Silvia, i had run the blue emanage very successfully for 18 months, then ordered an Ultimate only to find that it caused a misfire! after a lot of fafing about and a total waste of time trying to get some sort of sensible response from Greddy:swear: i gave up and sent it back! the problem was never successfully diagnosed, initially i thought it was a problem with the fueling settings, but in the end found it was something in the timing settings that caused the misfire, no adjustment no misfire! the last update i used was 08-08 which just added a couple more problems! like losing laptop connection randomly! i even tried a friends ultimate with the same result! so all in all i'm pretty disappointed and disheartened, as i really like the blue emanage and thought the Ultimate was going to be the next best thing to a stand alone ECU.

What was the offset on those rims?

Surly its down to rim width and offset, i realize that spoke pattern and design will have an impact on brake calliper Clarence, but there must be a limit to what offset a certain rim width will cope with on a Supra before it either touches the shock body or wheel arch?

Can anyone provide a definitive answer on what are the minimum and maximum sizes and offsets for 17" and 18" wheels on a jap spec TT.

What sort of limitations does the std Supra IC have? is it as bad as most factory ICs? would it be worth making a Skyline GTR one fit, as a stop gap? or better to wait and fit a dedicated fit IC when funds allow?

Well done mate:clap: looks like all your hard work paid off, looks really nice, nothing better than standing back and admiring your own handiwork!

Well I'll let you all know next week:yes: when I'll either be back saying I bought one! or now looking for a manual, thanks for all the comments:)

I have driven a couple of manuals,which i like, just had very little experience of the auto, not had a chance to drive this auto yet, is there anything to look out for on the Supra auto box?

LOL short and to the point! unlike you mate:p i think the only thing that makes me uncertain is the lack of engine braking.

Hi guys, back again for some advice, as some of you may have noticed, i was asking questions earlier this year, but unfortunately the deal fell through! i am now considering a PX of my very moded Silvia S14 350BHP for a bog std auto TT, not used to autos, only driven one auto Supra briefly! i can remember asking before, but i need some reassurance:yes: do you think a hardened manual box man will be happy with the Supra auto box?

Ahh right, in that case i think you may have either over thinned or you have put a coat of primer or base on too wet/heavy, that has a tendency to bleed into the feathered edge of old paint, there are two ways to get around this, one is to use isolator on all the repairs, or the alternative is to spot prime the repair with a couple dry coats first, but this way there is still a risk:yes: anyway good luck i hope it all comes good, and remember even the pros cock it up from time to time:yes:

The scratched look around filler etc is usually down to the prep, it sounds like you didn't spend enough time making sure you eradicated all the course sanding marks out of the filler, did you guide coat it after priming? its quite common, its very easy to think you have got rid of all the scratch marks once you get the primmer on, and the trouble is you don't notice it until you have got the lacquer on and it has dried, from you pics it look like you have done a good job! did you get the doors etc to match ok?

It was a cold call done tonight! bit short notice for a "professional outfit" don't you think? meet in a car park, and they want doughnuts:sly: and apparently its about an old Capri! i think you will find that its been posted on some of the baseball and hoody populalated sites to, so i'm pretty sceptical, and i could go along as i'm only 30 mins away.

LOL feel much better now , so is there one that works ? without the paranoia factor?

Just trying to get some feedback on these? are they a pain to set right? as you need to generate some knock in order to get a baseline set up, what's peoples opinions?

tdaxgav, i would be very interested to hear if you have been successful in removing the AFM, and if you have needed to use airflow temp or ECU water temp to scale the map? not got Ultimate yet, i run the blue on a Nissan, also very interested in how you have got on with the auto A/F feature, as i run an LM-1 wideband, and this feature will be very useful, along with timing not being changed when adding and removing fuel.