Matt Harwood

The bulb failure unit is in the boot, on the passenger side, behind the boot light panel. There's two units behind there. One is the fuel pump ECU, the other is the bulb failure unit. IIRC, the fuel pump ECU is metal, the other is plastic. (Could be wrong though). The fuel pump ECU has a heavy blue + blue/red cable going to it. Obviously, this is the one you don't want. Bear in mind I'm only presuming this is where the problem lay, as all the ones I've looked at, have power for the rear lights travelling to the back. Don't blame me if you rip the boot apart just to find out that isn't the problem

I get about 850 on a full throttle run, building to just under 900 on a sustained 6th gear run, and my probe is in no 6 runner just after the port. Personally, I'd say it's OK, but a maximum.

I've seen this s few times. Although I've never checked for certain, I think it may be related to the bulb failure unit. I've always rewired them. Much easier

FWIW, Duke. Maybe he gets let out a few days early for the right answers!

If you can't sing along to it, it aint music

He's alright. I spoke to him today. He was desperate to know what the names of Rigsby's cat and Boycies dog were!?!? Prison eh?

Personally, I think they look 'stuck on'. But then what do I know, I've got 'stuck on' sideskirts

Yes. The only way to se if the ECU is getting the correct signal, is to put a meter on the wire just before it goes into the ECU. The E01 may 'think' it's giving the correct signal, but until you check it externally, you can't be certain. If it is reading ~2.6v and drops as you crank, that's showing the MAP sensor is working properly. I'd suggest removing the spark plugs and giving them a good clean up, and re-setting the ECU. Then check for new fault codes as you try to start the car.

Were those voltages going to the ECU or the E01? Chances are, if the ECU isn't getting the correct voltage, it will be overfuelling and has now fouled up your plugs.

Was that going into the ECU? - That's atmospheric pressure. ie, no boost, no vacuum, which is correct until the car starts. But that reading only means the MAP sensor is working properly...

The only interest I have in two pack is the quality of the finnish

I don't suppose here name is Julie

Speaking of people not knowing of older bands.... When the Sugarbabes released their single "Freak Like Me", (using a very obvious sample Gary Numans "Are Friends Electric"), they were interviewed and asked if they had ever been inspired by Gary Numans music..... One of them said she had no idea who Gary Numan was!

Now you're talking!

He'd have been 12 when that was out... Bless I had just left school!

Ahhh, the good old days when songs were sung instead of chanted...

Measure the voltage going into the ECU. That'll at least tell you something. IIRC, it should be about ~1.26v. My guess is that you're going to be seeing about 5v, in which case the ECU is trying to throw in enough fuel to cope with about +1.5bar, instead of -0.5.

Ideally, get a multi-meter and check the voltage going into the ECU. The E-01 can tell you what voltage it's 'seeing' from the MAP sensor. I have seen an E-manage go faulty and give a code 31 as it was giving no output to the ECU what-so-ever.

Have you got an FCD fitted? - If that failed, or a wire has come adrift, that'll give you a code 31.

Far from it... Too many gears!

I know what you mean about the motorway driving. It's almost as responsive as an NA! - That is what set it apart so much from all the other Supras I've driven. Including mine! As for the RL lead, no, sorry. I've only got one, and that's from my car.

Eeeewww, it's not a Clifford alarm, it's a Code Alarm... YUK!

As far as I'm aware, it's the same gearbox, just that you can change gears from the steering wheel as opposed to moving the stick. I'm almost certain the gear ratios are the same, so performance wise, it can't be any different from a normal Supra auto.

You don't even need to disconnect the battery for that. Just make sure you take the keys out of the ignition before you start dismantling the dash/steering wheel, so that you're not tempted to turn the ignition on, and you'll have no problems.

~224 is stock. And yes, 264's and even HKS 272's are fine for non-interference.