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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

Matt Harwood

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Everything posted by Matt Harwood

  1. f**king hell Chris, that's really shitty! - What happened?
  2. I work in the ICE trade and I'm not at all suprised that a 'mother' has a car with screens and big bore exhaust. Admittedly, they're certainly in the minority, but I've seen several. On the other hand, it could someone who's taking a different approach to the commons sales pitch of 'careful lady owner'....
  3. Terry S's black car was making positive boost before 1500rpm, and full boost before 3000. Thats much quicker/more power than the sequentials can produce, not to mention that the single could reliably carry on up to 1.6 bar before coming out of its efficiency range. Edited: Doh! Replied before reading Wez's reply
  4. Would it be out of order to say "buy a kit that fits"? - If so, I won't say it. I'm so glad we didn't have any of these problems when we did mine. The only bit of welding mine needed was a sensor bung. It'll all be worth it in the end Darryl. Keep up the good work, and well done keeping patient!
  5. Well, let me see if I can at least get it from VHS onto DVD first. If I can manage that, I'll ask for help to get it on the net BTW, I didn't keep it quite. I mentioned I've had it about 5 years ago
  6. Robbie has JUN rods. Sorry, can't tell you any more than that...
  7. The original loom comes down from the bulkhead behind the glovebox and heater system. The F-con loom will be plugged into that and generally looks far messier. You can't miss the stock loom, it's the one that has no play in it
  8. I've got the original Top Gear TV review on video, with Tiff Needell driving...
  9. Look what I've found from 1982
  10. I didn't get home from Phoenix 'til about 9pm. There was a nasty accident on the M25 and they shut the road for a while...
  11. I'm not arguing with you... Your knife is bigger than mine You can't see it. It's tucked behind the AC compressor and PS pump
  12. OK, first things first. You need to remove the dash top section, (5 screws), and re-solder the connections that go to the lamps on the right. You'll need to undo the two screws that hold the lamp cluster in place, then the two screws that hold the two pieces together. It'll be obvious when you take it apart. It's not a difficult job, and its a common fault. Once you've done that, you can check your fault codes and begin to find out why the car won't start...
  13. Or you could always extend all the wires and just twist 'n' tape 'em!
  14. Go on you poof! - Mind you, I'm up at Phoenix tomorrow, so I'm not even sure I'll make it!
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