Matt Harwood

I do. I also appreciate that Dude's car was quicker at TOTB3, and his wasn't stripped out, and did have a proper MOT

I'm sure the guy selling them will say that they're as good as a Walbro. Has there every been any actual propper testing on these pumps? There has been plenty done on the Walbro's and many others too. Results can be seen here. http://www.stealth316.com/2-fuelpumpguide.htm (edited to add, the Supra pump in these tests is a UK/US pump, which is significantly better than the crappy JDM one) Personally, I wouldn't buy an unknown fuel pump. They may be good on MR2's, but the Supra has 2 extra cylinders and and extra litre of cylinder capacity. Good luck with it though

Which parts are you after Terry? - I've got some rear side panels

PM me you're phone number Phil. I'll get Tony to call you tomorrow if we can arrange something

Which one do you prefer? - I'll see what I can do...

I know of Predator, but I wouldn't sell them personally. Yes, they do seem to be feature packed, but they are not known for being the most reliable. To put it another way... Back in 1998, there was a big shake up of all the alarm manufacturers when Thatcham changed/increased their testing for reliablity and stability. Many of the cheapo alarms lost their accreditation that year as they simply couldn't produce a reliable system. Predator was one of them. To show how much they're trying to jump on the Clifford bandwagon, and make it look like they're actually good; Clifford are owned and distributed by a company called Directed Electronics. Predator are distributed in the UK by a company called DE Trade sales.... See what they're trying to do there?

Shame. Another Supra's written off....

How much?

You shouldn't need to. Just follow the loom down by the light and you should see a largish 4 pin plug not connected to anything.

No. Many seem to have the plug under the headlight on the drivers side, but it's rare that the ECU and switch wiring are present if the spoiler isn't. You'll need to remove the radio to find out.

I've access to, and dealt with, pretty much every alarm in the UK. My personal preference would be Clifford. I like the features you can only get with the Cliffords, like BlackJax and programmable siren tones and easy set up Proximity sensor. But I would also recommend Toad very highly, (and Stirling which is the same company ), I'd also say that Laserline, Sigma and Autowatch are very reliable, and worth considering. As for where to get it done. You're choice entirely, but I certainly DON'T recommend mobile 'installers' like Gap. I've rectified far too many man-in-van, "but it was cheap", type installations. Go to a reputable car security dealer. If something goes wrong, you can simply take it back to the dealer. They'll always be in the same place Of course, I should be recommending Sextons in Gloucester. If you want to get there, let me know as I may be able to get you a better deal.

AFR's do seem to be very subjective, but IMHO, an AFR around 11.5 seems to be safe. Safe both from bore-washing the engine by being too rich, and to hold off detonation from running too lean. As for injector sizing, in an ideal world, you'd want to have your injectors running at less than 80% duty cycle whilst achieving an AFR of around 11.5 and full boost and maximum RPM.

550's would probably 'do', but, if you're aiming for 550bhp, you'll be right on the limit, and that includes winding the fuel pressure to squeeze more fuel through. Get 650's and you'll be much safer.

No. At best, that'll only be reading a narroband signal to monitor AFR. It doesn't have the ability to control fuel.

Refreshing to see a realistic power figure too.

Well done Rob! Told ya you were gonna be in the 10's Now turn the boost up!

oops!.

A tad far for me to come and have a look! Bypass the FCD part. Put it as close to stock as possible.

Can't see that changing petrol would make a difference. I've used some crappy 95 octane stuff when I've been caught short before, so I really doubt that Ultimate would cause any problems at all. The triangle is part of the warning system. Just telling you somethings not right for the car to be driven, (could be as simple as door open, or as serious as a multitude of fault codes). Well, my next step would be bypass the Greddy, just to be safe, and change the MAP sensor. Reset the ECU again, and try again... Out of interest, where are you?

Well, the voltage will drop as a vacuum is created, but bearing in mind the starter motor only turns the engine over at about 150-200rpm, it won't be creating much vacuum, so the voltage won't be dropping much. As the engine fires, it should drop. To be honest, I'm a little stumped by that. I suppose it's worth changing over the MAP sensor, just to see if that works, but I would be suprised as the voltage output is correct Have you unplugged the ECU recently? - Could the pins be bent/damaged? Had any work been done to the car prior to it not starting?

That's rather strange. The MAP sensor seems to be giving you the correct voltage, so it seems to be working. I'm presuming you have got a J-spec, pre-vvti, TT ?

I've get a small dent in my roof from a couple of years back. I came out in the morning and found a bloody great big stick next to my car. I remember thinking at the time, "Thank God that didn't land on my car"... Doh!

The only reason I can think of, is that the US doesn't have anywhere where you can legally sit at 155+ for a few hours, so it was deemed unnecessary...