Matt Harwood

The different thicknesses are for a cheap way of lowering the compression ratio. I think the stock one is either 1.1 or 1.2mm, although I'm happy to be proved wrong?

It shouldn't go off providing the ignition is switched off. The airbag system relys on an ignition voltage to trigger. So all you need to do, it make sure the ignition is off and you'll be fine. I once even tried to make a removed airbag blow. Bloody thing wouldn't go. All it did is make the cable get hot However, I've also witnessed a Porsche door airbag go, and it was f**king loud! I wouldn't want one going off in my face!

Well, Leon and Dude used to run an old S-AFC with 850's! The AFC and E-manage both reduce airflow voltage by 50%, so there's no difference in the size of injectors they can control. However, the difference between an AFC and an E-manage is the adjustment points. An early AFC has 8x2 IIRC, the S-AFC2 has 12x2 whereas the E-manage has 16x16. On top of that, the E-manage, (when combined with their pressure sensor), can also increase injector duty where the stock MAP sensor runs out. It can also adjust ignition timing, (Although I've not seen it work on a UK spec yet).

Yep, that would be the next step. Which size, type, will depend on your long term goals. But depending on what you're intending to use as a fuel controller can have a bearing on which injectors you should choose. Personally, if you're looking at any kind of piggy pack system, get the injectors sized adaquatly for your uses, but don't over size for the sake of it. ie. don't get 1000cc injectors if you're running hybrids or a small single, and are planning on using an E-manage. IMHO, 550's are fine for hybrids, and 650's are OK for T61, T67 etc. (650's for a T67 on very high boost is pushing it though).

Bigger injectors will allow more fuel flow at high boost. The stock J-spec 440 injectors run out of flow at roughly 1.2 bar. (Less, if they're old a slightly worn/blocked). As such, you may find your AFR's at full throttle start to run lean. Especially on a high speed run. Adding bigger injectors won't actually give you any more power by themselves, but they will allow you to make better and most importantly, safer, use of high boost settings. (Bear in mind that you don't really gain much more power, if any, above 1.2 bar on the stock turbos). If you plan on upgrading from the stock twins, then injectors are almost a certain requirement. If you do want to change injectors, you'll also need some way of controlling them. Apexi S-AFC as a minimum. They certainly won't help economy Unless your old ones are really shagged!

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Ooo-er, I didn't know you'd tell everyone!

Looks like oil pump failure

To me, the Supra is a toy. It's probably my favourite toy, but I don't use it very often, and I'm sure some people would see it as a money-drain. Well it is, but I don't care. Most things in life are bought at 'x' amount, then sold at 'x' amount less. Until I get bored with it, or something more important comes up, I have no intention of selling it. If you're fed up with it or it irritates you, and don't want to spend any money on it, maybe that really is time to move on.

It's nice to know they do actually make a difference then

I'll pop round in about half an hour Chris. I'm aiming to meet up with Mig there, so we can really upset you, oops!, I meant, give you a second opinion

Damn, too slow

The upper plastic screws are simply screws going into a kind of Rawl plug thing. But if you put too much pressure on the screwdriver whilst trying to remove them, they'll just spin. (whoever invented plastic screws!). Easiest way to get them out without damaging the heads, is to get something small and thin and gently lift the screw as you're turning it with a screwdriver. Something like a Stanley knife blade should do. A bit of lube won't hurt either. The lower clips are a similar kind Rawl plug design, but instead of the screw head, they have a protruding head that just needs lifting up, then the whole plug can be removed.

Drop the underdash down, (2 10mm bolts at the bottom and unclip the upper half), look at the underside of your ignition barrel and you'll see a small white plug with two cables. Unplug that and your ignition bongs will be a thing of the past And as already said, the reverse beeper is at the back of the clocks. It's a small grey thing that you can simply remove to stop the beeps.

I've got one on my car... Can't say I noticed any difference though. I certainly wouldn't make it top of your list, put it that way

Recipe for false alarms... Think back to the late 80's, early 90's. Plety of false alarms back then

If you've only got Blackjax, you need a complete alarm for that! Any Clifford alarm can have a tilt and motion sensor added to it. Blackjax by itself is only an anti-hijack/anti 'key-car theft' system. I'd suggest a Clifford Intelliguard 950. It comes with a dualzone proximity sensor, so you'll hear if someone is close to the car, and the 950 comes with the t&m sensor as standard. - And some good locking wheelnuts. (McGard IIRC are good).

I think you'll find Mr Monkey left off the 'sarcasic' smilie

There are no dildos. Can't be a UK spec I paid £45 for mine, new, from Model Zone. Sadly they are long discontinued now, so I don't think £66 is bad. Things are only worth, what people are prepared to pay for them.

Not to ME, must get BMI up!

I just switched from 'normal' to 'pessimistic' and lost 18 years! - Time to act normally.... whats normal?

Flashpoint is a 'bulk/trade' name for Laserline. You'll be able to get a Laserline case to fit it too.

Chantelle just read on Teletext that Ross Davidson had died yesterday. She said she recognised the name but wasn't sure who he was, so I did a Google search for it... This is one of the websites that came up.... http://www.deathlist.net/

You should have been given a small, credit card sized peice of card that has a quick reference guide on one side and a silver sticker with a 4 digit number on the other.

Yep, no problem