stevie_b

It'll get better, trust me. Got anywhere to stay? Parents?

I thought yours was the one in your avatar, and I've been seeing exactly that avatar dotted around several threads for ages. Still, a great car!

Are they trained in housework?

Basingstoke! Also tdaxgav, Graham S, slowdog, suprababe, leett, etc etc

You must have a XXL drive if you can host a meet there! I know Bolney, but unfortunately cannot make it as I've got visitors that day. Have a good time!

Yes, yes and yes. How many more cities need to be flattened before ALL developed countries take notice of this?

Gavan (tdaxgav) might have a spare one for sale, but it should be problem-free as long as you take your time with it.

See this link: http://homepage.ntlworld.com/peter.betts/supra/TechTips/odometer.htm It's written by Pete Betts, who's very respected on here. I guess the method described by straightsix here is the same as the Peter Betts one, but I haven't examined them to confirm. When you do the conversion, it'll count up in miles, but you'll either need to get the current value converted from kms to miles, or get a certificate like Class One said.

Where did you take it for repair?

Welcome to the club Babe! (edit: I agree with Nic: don't do the LEDs!)

Don't know about your delimiter, but I know the Thor one supplies a clamped signal direct to the ECU, not the odometer. If I understand correctly, the Thor delimiter's output signal rises until it gets near to 112mph, then stops rising, even if you carry on accelerating. The ECU is fooled into thinking you're doing just under 112mph. Probably not much help. My advice would be to buy the Thor unit like Jake says.

I was wondering about getting a new rubber (jokes on a postcard, please! :biggrin: )but my one looks in good nick still. I'll have a look at the unit: I didn't see a drain plug/channel when I fitted it, but I may have missed it.

Hello all, I've recently changed the radio aerial in the supra, but I think a *small* amount if water is finding it's way into the boot via the hole in the bodywork that the mast comes up through. It looks like a good seal (no obvious holes, rubber looks in OK condition), but I guess it's not quite good enough. Does anyone have any bright ideas as to how to seal this properly? I was originally thinking of mastick, but that would make the aerial a b*gger to remove should I need to in the future.

I'm in the same situation. Umpteen years' NCB in the supra, hence 0 NCB on the, ahem, Metro. If I crashed the Metro, would that affect my supra NCB? I hope not!

Conkers. I've heard that spiders don't like the smell they give off, so I'm going to be collecting plenty of conkers soon, and leaving them in my shed! Me, a 30-year old bloke, scavenging the streets for conkers!

Try CJ's contact at Toyota (look for a post titled "cheap OEm parts" or something like that). I've heard he does great discounts on windscreens. Not sure about delivery though.....

Good question. And is low RON stuff as bad for an NA as people say it is for a TT?

Yes, the mirrors will still be hinged, so just give them a firm push, and they'll fold up.

Thanks guys! That's really made my day!

My advice is to make sure ALL the details are correct: 2997cc sounds right for a mkiv, but try to get them to add "RZ" to the quote. Don't be in any doubt about it: if you get your wires crossed with your insurer and you have a prang, you don't want to be sweating wondering whether they'll honour the insurance or not. That's a whole world of pain that you just don't need! Hope that helps.

Absolutely! Bypass the buffer circuit in the odometer.

These might help: http://homepage.ntlworld.com/peter.betts/supra/TechTips/odometer.htm http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=8330&highlight=speed+sensor http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=14307&page=2&pp=15&highlight=speed+sensor http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=12734&highlight=speed+signal+wire+problems

Like the man says, I had a code 42 error which is now solved. Sorry if this is a bit simplistic to those experienced members, but I thought I'd make it as complete as possible. First of all, code 42 errors are very common. It is almost always NOT the speed sensor itself that needs replacing. The speed signal comes from the speed sensor, and goes (via a speed converter unit if one is fitted) to the speedo. It then gets passed from the speedo to the odometer unit. It gets buffered here for a bit, then gets passed to the ECU. I can't remember when the Progresive Power Steering (PPS) system gets the signal, but I think it's probably after it gets spat out of the odo. > Does your speedo work? If not, the signal's falling over at the first hurdle. > Does your odometer count up OK? If not, the the signal doesn't get from the speedo to the odometer. If you can, try a new odometer unit temporarily. If the error goes away, the odo unit is at fault. This could be 1) solder joints gone bad, or 2) a problem with the speed buffering circuit in the odo unit. I'm pretty sure that the wiring instructions of the Thor unit bypass the buffer circuit, so even if the buffer circuit is dead, the problem is cured. I know what you're thinking: "the buffer circuit is there for a reason". I thought the same. Well, I don't know anyone who has had problems due to bypassing it. I'll try and dig up some useful links from Pete Betts' website. Steve

That was an excellent post Ian. I've learned some stuff from that!

If they definitely had buyers lined up, then they'd be happy to complete the deal for you, giving you £8120 (8200 - 80). I would, if I were them. If they want you to stump up some kind of handling fee, it can't be a dead cert.