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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

Mk4Gaz

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Everything posted by Mk4Gaz

  1. Just straight on as soon as it's dry
  2. Hi all, I bought these about a year ago, and they were advertised as 17" stock wheels! Long story short, they've been in my garage ever since, still mostly unboxed, but I could do with the space back! They've been completely refurbished, and powder coated in gunmetal grey. They're as good as brand new condition wise. £250 ono
  3. I've just done mine, and as above, I got the decals from ebay
  4. I'm not sure if that's kevs old car or not? If it is, it used to have a bomex front bumper. Unfortunately, due to ill health, kev had to sell up. Real shame as he is a lovely bloke.
  5. Just a bit of advice with these..... I would strongly recommend not using the supplied bolts, and source some replacement high tensile ones instead. Markssupra runs these, and on our way home from a car show today, one of the bolts sheared, leaving him/us stranded. Luckily we weren't going fast, as it could've been much worse!
  6. Mk4Gaz

    New parts

    You shouldn't need to remove any ball joints to swap the shocks out bud. Remove the long bolt that holds the upper wishbone in place, and it'll flip forward, allowing the shock to lift out. You have to remove the washer bottle to do the passenger side though, which is a bit of a ball ache!
  7. Ah, either way, I reckon it'll make your life much easier. I swore at mine for ages before admitting defeat and removing the cam covers. It was easy after that
  8. Whip the cam covers off, seriously, it makes it much easier! Granted you've got the ball ache of having to remove the coil packs and replacing the gaskets, but it makes the job a breeze
  9. You're very welcome, any time
  10. Any movement on the price? I'll be at the bluewater meet first Friday of August, and could collect then with cash, if you'll be there?
  11. It came with the rad, I've never paid much attention to it! I'll measure it up, and order a replacement. I'll be chuffed if it works!
  12. Funny you should say that, as there is - although it never seems to actually be wet and leaking. I think the rad I've got is shit, and am thinking of getting a new oem one
  13. To be fair, when I had an oem rad, it bled up easily (before adding any extra bleed points in). When I swapped to an alloy rad, the problems started. Not sure if it's coincendence, but my heaters have never been as hot as they used to be.
  14. If you mean "did it bleed" then yes, but if you mean "did it make getting the air out of the entire system easier", then no. Personally I think jacking the front up is the best bet
  15. I fitted one of those exact same bleed valves to my outlet hose. To be honest, it didn't make the system any easier to bleed.
  16. I'm interested in them, been after a pair for a while now! Please let me know a price
  17. I'll be interested to see what you end up with, as I've been looking at low rpm spooling turbos for a while. I'm currently using a borg warner s362, which starts spooling around 3k rpm, and is making full boost by about 3800rpm. Ideally I would like something that spools similar to a stock tt setup, but without losing much power in the later rev range
  18. Leave them out mate. Don't forget to fit a pilot bearing to the crank though
  19. I'm working on grp fuel tank guards at the moment. Should be available in the next few weeks
  20. You can fit a factory ecu and use the standalone as a piggy back. Obviously it will need splicing into the harness, or a patch lead, but I think that would be your cheapest option
  21. I wouldn't recommend clear coating any plastic lenses. The solvents in 2k clear coat can attack polycarbonate, and also they will be susceptible to constant stone chips, which will make them look even worse. The crazing unfortunately is stress fractures within the polycarbonate lense, and cannot be reversed. You'd be better off searching for a pair of replacement headlights, or poor condition ones that you could split and swap the lenses over. It's not a difficult job to do, but you do need to be patient, and very thorough when putting them back together. You need to use a sealant that stays soft, similar to windscreen sealant.
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