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Everything posted by Style
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We stayed at the Grand Palace Hotel which was about a 15 minute walk to the Trevi Fountain and close to a couple of the sightseeing bus tour stops. We just bought tickets for those and rode around to the main attractions all day. Admittedly it was a bit hit and miss with the bus times as traffic can get a bit manic. It's not slap bang in the centre but we preferred the slightly quieter evenings to wander around.
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Signals his swan song to end his career IMO. Held on at Mercedes to win as long as he could and finish with 1...maybe 2 seasons at Ferrari and retire. I'm sure he'd said on day 1 that he wanted to race with Ferrari at one point in his career. Doubt he's hopeful of winning a title with them as well
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Is it a facelift car? Front end looks to be but as a 1995, it shouldn't be I don't think. We'll need a lot more info or at least photos before anyone can give a ball park. Also worth baring in mind that the market is dead on it's ass just now. Cars are generally not shifting unless you get lucky
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Good observations, thanks for the run through! I'm hoping to see BTC take some dominance back in the coming months so that's my main priority for now
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Not easier to change the fuel rail?
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If you'd like a decent alternative that doesn't break the bank too badly, here's what I did in the end
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I reckon you'll struggle to hit a genuine 500hp without addressing the engine itself as well, you'll either need a TT headgasket to drop the compression ratio a little or some pistons if you want to do the job "properly". A damn good service and compression test would help as well. No point spending all the time and money on a tired engine that needs some attention first. You'll probably need different spark plugs too as well as some sensors like Swampy mentioned and almost definitely an oil cooler at that level of boost etc. Oil pressure and temps would be something to keep an eye on with sensors. Even if it's just wired to the ECU, don't need gauges. As someone who's been there and done it...whatever you think this is going to cost you before you start, be prepared to double it for a realistic idea of where you'll be financially by the end. Not trying to put you off or anything, just like to see people enjoy the process and not get disheartened/lose the love when things start to spiral.
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Worth taking the needle off, setting it to 0 before a run in the car to see if it's behaving? If it shows the correct reading at full boost then maybe just needed adjusting slightly? Similar thing has happened to my temp gauge, sits a little above middle when warm but doesn't budge from there. I'm debating just moving it to the middle as I have a better reading to my ECU with another sensor anyway
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Seems to be a mad scramble to wherever the money is at the moment. ULEZ expansions seem to be incredibly well received around London as well
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Probably best to find an exporter from the UK before you do anything and then see how they go about advertisement. Easy enough to advertise on Facebook in the meantime
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GTechniq Wheel Armour for me. Usually lasts the 6 months that I use the car each year. Apply a new coat before taxing it the following year
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Depends entirely on your goals and budget really. If you're happy with GTE rods then a set of Eagles or something like that would be fine too. I've heard Maxspeeding ones are ok too but I don't know much about them
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How far do you want to go with it? Blank off the cap of the distributor and run smart coils? Or remove the dizzy altogether and take cam/crank signal from elsewhere too? If you want rid of the entire dizzy, I haven't seen anyone come up with an altrernative solution to chaning the oil pump for a GTE or GE VVTi one. So you'll probably need that along with a crank trigger wheel, crank sensor and an ECU to calibrate it all. This is probably the bulk of the £ to do the work. Cam sensor wise it's just a case of plugging the distributor hole and mounting a sensor which you will either need TT style cams to do or run a different cam gear with a trigger point on it. I've got a bracket mounted in front of the exhaust cam and runs an OEM crank sensor to pick up a bolt head. Up to you how you want to run it but will need to be handy on the tools to produce something as it needs to be very accurate with a small gap between the sensor and trigger head. I picked up the Goleby's kit when the exchange rate was good, so wasn't that expensive. https://golebysparts.au/products/2jzge-trigger-kit-golebys-parts-distributor-delete?variant=15746035646573 Cheaper option in Aus too: https://www.supravworld.com/product-page/crank-trigger-kit-no-cam-trigger-non-vvti-2jz-ge Coil packs is then just clips and wiring. I've been using NGK U5002 coils with great success so far. Fits nicely under the TT plug cover too.
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Mk5 can't be far off that budget now
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Probably worth clarifying if it's a TT or NA you're planning on turbo'ing so as not to end up with the wrong manifold
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Just need to pay the membership fee to join and you'll be given access to the for sale section, think it's a fiver for the year eBay, Facebook groups (if you're feeling brave), carsandclassics and maybe pistonheads if anyone still uses that site. Hopefully that would spread the word far enough to get a bit of interest
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Check everything you can and replace everything that's leaky basically lol. Usual serviceable items such as plugs, belts, pumps, crank pulley, main seals, gaskets...the list goes on really. Vac hoses can be brittle by now, especially if they've been on the car since new. So I'd check each of them for splits as it'll be difficult to chase once the engine etc is all back in. Are you TT or going NA-T? From what I can make out, it's NA-T so the engine could really be doing with a good once over before it's boosted. Especially the spark side of things so definitely new plugs, leads and potentially a fresh coil (they're still quite cheap). Or just ditch the distributor and go smart coils if you have the time and money to do it now.
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I'm sure the cover that the Dragonball guys use is mentioned on the thread for the event along with a contact name to go to for the right deal (in line with what all the dragonballers requested)
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Looks like it's still happily making power all the way up to red line. Nicely done, bet it's fun to drive
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Looks epic mate, bet you're happy with those numbers too. Finally time to enjoy it!
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FOR SALE: Supra SZ-R NA-T 6 speed manual 1996
Style replied to Supra Ems's topic in Supra Classifieds
Sorry in that case I misread -
FOR SALE: Supra SZ-R NA-T 6 speed manual 1996
Style replied to Supra Ems's topic in Supra Classifieds
I don't think I've ever heard someone haggle a price down on a full car based on the fact it's a 161 instead of a 160. They're both incredibly stout and imo don't affect the value at all. -
FOR SALE: Supra SZ-R NA-T 6 speed manual 1996
Style replied to Supra Ems's topic in Supra Classifieds
It's a facelift, factory 6 speed NA so it will be the V161. It's the only 6 speed they put in any NA engined cars -
I asked ChatGPT to design one for the bants and I think it's largely agrees with Ellis on the design (as do I!) "The badge is circular and measures about 3 inches in diameter. The background color is silver, and the text and graphics are in black and red. In the center of the badge is the silhouette of a fourth-generation Toyota Supra, with the words "30th Anniversary" written underneath in bold, red letters. The car silhouette is black, and it has a red outline to make it stand out. Around the edge of the badge, there is a black border with the words "MK4 Supra" written at the top in bold, capitalized letters. At the bottom, there is the Toyota logo in red and black. Overall, this badge is a sleek and stylish way to celebrate the 30th anniversary of the MK4 Toyota Supra. It's the perfect accessory for any fan or owner of this iconic car."
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Is there an aftermarket alarm/immobiliser installed on the car? Could be that going haywire