listy

You can buy dual purpose drl's that act as side lights and indicators.

Slutters did this on his single, and did get gains from it. However, that was a turbo, and he fabricated A LOT of ducting etc to make it worthwhile. You'd be better off using a heat shield imo.

A friend of mine owns a 350z (completely stock) 2006 model, and wants to improve a few things. Now, he has asked me two things: 1- How to make it more fuel efficient 2- How to make it faster The first thing I said, was if he's worrying about economy, a 350z is the wrong car to own. I have also explained to him that the two don't really go hand in hand. If he wants it faster, he'll drop economy. However, if we take it as "Option 1" and "Option 2" what are the best ways to go about each one? I've suggested a re-map (if the ecu is mappable, I don't know) to improve fuel economy, or performance. For performance, I've suggested a more free flowing exhaust with sport cats, uprated rad, uprated panel filter. I'm pretty sure you can buy turbo kits for them too, but I don't think he's after spending that much. Any pointers for him would be appreciated. I've also suggested popping in to Whifbits SW to talk to Paul about the best options for what he wants.

As an investment I'd say the Fords tip it mate. Personally though, I'd get an old school celica (70' I think?) that have the muscle car look. I don't know what the prices are liely to be, but they are available at reasonable prices, and I would expect the prices to rise.

Any ideas yet people?

We have helped. We have told you what you need to do. http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?82442-Club-Membership-Details-Including-Trader-amp-Hobbyist-Membership-Rules Click the link, follow the process of paying the £10 membership fee for the year (or £30 for life membership) and you will have full access to the forum. If you had read the Terms and Conditions rather than just agreeing to them, you would know the above information already

As said, you need to be a paid member to access those areas. All of this is outlined in the T+C's which you agreed to when signing up to the forum.

Is it coming from the back? Check the boot rubbers (rubber blocks) they go hard with age.

I think when Al says "boot seals" he means "boot rubbers" (the rubber blocks that stop the boot lid rattling)

I just came back from a climbing trip with work based out of Inverness. I'd love to get the Supra up there, so I'd be well up for the trip some time. Just not for a couple of years as I'm moving in May.

I'm sure it went North last year, but not sure how far. There was talk of doing it to Scotland at some point though, to include our most Northern members.

After that, I'm wondering if Abz is quicker off the mark than skippy

As said, leave the coins there. It's a good luck thing.

It's called DragonCol which unfortunately didn't happen this year, but will again in the future.

Are your heat shields still in place around the exhaust? If it's loose it can rattle at lower RPM, and the air pushing past it may cause the whistling sound. Boot rubbers only really make noise over bumps etc and I wouldn't expect that to cause a whistle at higher speeds.

I like cake

It's there for a reason It keeps the adverts easily readable, and tidy, making sales and purchases simpler and easier Glad? No, maybe, who knows? If any of his For Sales threads aren't by the template, I'll just delete them as he obviously knows it's there now

Was it something about it being an NA?

That's what I do. 3000 miles or 6 months. To be fair though, I'm probably wasting money doing it that often, as the oil is usually really good when it comes out.

I love mine too The problem is we may have to sell to help fund a mortgage, a but we are trying everything to avoid it.

Or does he mean using LED bulbs?

Unless it's a stock spoilerless hatch If you can't get templates, use a wideboard marker (dry wipe type) and find and mark the centre of the boot lid. Assemble the spoiler and mark the centre of the blade. Line up the marks and draw around the legs. (make sure it doesn't move off centre) Make a template of the bottom of the legs (including bolt holes) Put templates on hatch in marked position. Mark bolt holes. Drill. Bobs your uncle. NB: I take no responsibility if it all goes wrong, but that's how I'd go about it.

You need to be a paid member to use the PM system, and also to buy/sell on here.

The panel gaps are just filled in on the rear bumper (I think) The skirts are fully blended in the shuts and I think just panel gaps everywhere else again. The current front wings will be replaced with stock or wider wings, so not fussed about those really. Would like them to come off in one piece if possible, as they are a rather rare and unique part. Depending on what happens in the next 6 months (Supra may get sold to fund a house purchase) depends what happens with it. I'd love to keep it, as nigh on all the age related stuff has been replaced in the last 2 years by myself or Whifbitz. If I sold it and got a new one down the line, I'm at risk of having to fork out for it all again Thanks mate I just fancy a bit of a change. I have this amazing image in my head that doesn't get seen very often

I'm not sure yet. I know the NUR wings are best fit by removing the rear quarter and replacing it with the wings. For a while though, it will be stock rear arches (mine has had an aggresive roll and pull anyway), maybe JDL extensions, as I have a pair in the garage. Not sure on the front though, either NUR or DoLuck, as I want to try and keep stock(ish) lines. Ridox wide is a no as it's been done too many times in recent years, plus it would never compare to Add Heywoods one. It's a while off yet, but as it's coming off the road soon, and I need a new front bumper, if I can get hold of the stock bits, then I could get started.