The-Plethora

Very nice job on the paint, very clean! I usually got through the process of clean it up a bit, spray it, realise it looks terrible then buy the same item new.

Thanks for the help and advice all, I'll give it a go this weekend, I am sure my old man has a multimeter kicking around. It's odd, it's only happened recently and yes it is an aftermarket stereo but it's been in the car as long as I have got it. I thought there might by some sort of 'stay alive' setting on it that maybe I activated but when the powers off, it wouldn't reach the stereo anyway. The car does have an aftermarket alarm that's been on since I bought it. I did debate removing it or rather buying a new alarm and getting the new installer to do the dirty work as I've seen the wiring under the dash. Managed to go home at lunch, it had been fully charged 1 day ago and was already cactus as the aussies say. Will let you know when it turns out to be something simple as these things usually tend to be

Very nice developments Nevins. Can I ask roughly how much the respray was? I really need to get mine done before long and would prefer to use a place not miles away.

Nice selection! Whenever I see those blue barrells now though i always think of Breaking Bad

I've got a bit of annoying problem lately where my battery which is only about 2 years old seems to die in less than 2 days before the car won't start. I've checked the obvious things like cubby hole light, boot light, doors, etc. Is there an easy way to narrow this down further or at least isolate what circuit the drain is coming from? I don't have anything plugged into my cig lighter which seems a bit of a commonly overlooked place as some phone chargers drain whilst off. Even if the cubby light was on I would still be suprised if it could drain a big car battery in such a short time so thinking something with higher pull on it. The car hasn't really been anywhere so I discounted the alternator option. Haven't been able to get to the car this week with other stuff but I hope to have a look this weekend, the more things to check the better Any ideas?

I've tried to get some seats fitted lately and it's a big pain. You could mod the seat rails but think it would look fairly ugly. There is a guy on the forum who makes seat rails in 2 different lengths which would be by far the best (possibly cheapest too) solution. He is having his car painted at the moment so there will be a little wait as his own car is used to make sure everything lines up before it goes out. http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?249192-Low-Mount-Custom-seat-frames/page4&highlight=low+mount+seat

Ha I took that as kiss fanny before I read the second post Should be good, spoiler looks decent quality too, hopefully mine will get resprayed before long.

Just had a word with the local welding guy and he reckons about £200ish. It does look a bit more complicated than originally thought. Near the bolt holes are locating pins on the stock seats, the seatbelt bracket an ensuring it all lines up. I've had the passenger seat out and tried tearing it down but it seems you are left with a large amount of excess to cut away. Time for a think

The pics from the initial post seem to have dissapeared but I ordered some of these seats and they turned up today and I have to say they look really nice, very good quality material, definitely more expensive looking than their £200 would suggest. I wanted rid of the electric seat no matter what. I spend ages looking for a manually sliding supra seat (if such a thing ever existed?). The forward / back mechanism was gone in my car as is very common so I didn't want to just delay it by getting another set and getting them upholstered, I prefer that you can move them more quickly. However, that's not to say all is golden On the stock seat something I overlooked was that the stock seat seat belt clip bolts directly to the frame (some cars have this to the centre console area. Barney mentioned on PM that he had to weld them and so it looks like I'll have to go down the same route. Below is the bottom base of the new seat, has a couple of holes to work with and a flat base. Looking at the stock seat below on the rear brackets connects in 2 places. I've got the details of a local fabricator / welder, would it make more sense to wrestle / cut the mounting brackets from the stock seat and use those or get a custom rail / seat belt mount created for each seat? Possibly not as cheap as I thought in today. Any ideas welcome. If I did away with the stock seat belt idea and used a basic harness I presume the belts need to be fixed to a rollcage or something in the back?

I don't think it's the end of the world with this. The brakes you could do yourself, I'm not especially gifted with car work but check the guides section and there is loads of info. A full replacement seal kit for front and back is probably 70 quid, front and rear disks probably £230 ish. Oil cooler pipework leaking? check pipes and tighten up, oil cooler zip tied? Not ideal initially but for a project definitely something you can look into. All interior electrics not working? Almost certainly fuses, a quick check of those would sort that. Engine missfire? Could be something as simple as a damaged coil pack clip, damaged wire or possibly faulty coil pack. For the other stuff I would get Whifbitz or another specialist to check it out, after all this is what you put aside the money for in the first place, get a professional opinion. It might be a bit disheartening to begin with but a lot of these sound like fairly simple jobs. Before I joined this forum I could barely change the brakes on my old Celica but with the guides and advice I'll have a go at most stuff outside of the engine itself.

Mine was C8 sup, I parked it out of the way so nobody could see it heh. Yeah that 240z was a beaut, owner was a friendly chap and happy to explain things, nice to meet Paul's brother too. I tried to get there a lot earlier but some some reason one of the bridges was closed from Bristol and everyone was queued up over the other. Got a few pics.

Lucky you pointed that out I need more sleep.

I'll try to be there Nev, hangover pending. Shame Craig's car isn't ready I was hoping to chat to you two about painting and other bits . Hopefully being a sunday the other businesses won't be open so parking shouldn't be too much of an issue. Attending 1. Nevins . 2. Listy 3. DownImpact 4. Lewysdanny 5. Tayfun.tugra 6. James_cbr 7. The-Plethora 8. 9. 10. Maybe 1. Axl 2. Fizzy T 3. 4. 5.

I had a go at mine this weekend too, I wasn't having any footwell leaks and flushing and reverse flushing only seemed to do so much. It's then that I decided to use a bit of muscle...Mr Muscle that is ... This really shifts the crap out, it fizzes up nicely It's clear when it goes in, you can see all the debris coming back up the funnel. The bucket that was clear when just using water. I let water run through after for over 10 mins just to clear as much as possible. It's certainly done the trick though, the heaters are red hot , I don't think using just using water would have done that. Evil stuff though, if you use it make sure you do a prolonged flush and get it off your hands.

I think the general take on KR is that some of the older stuff was a bit hit and miss fitment wise but a lot better now but get someone else to do painting.

Is that engine going in or coming out though I hope you keep this one longer than a couple of months this time! I kinda wished you hung on to the budget concious NA/T as well, good power for the money. My money is on a 1UZ-FE

Yeah, they are a no go. I have seen a few cars with the smoothed doors and no handles though they look quite nice but thats the only door changes I might look at.

I don't doubt the quality of some of the kit some of the traders on here make and they rightfully have their good reputation but cold hard facts if you are on a budget, the ebay setup costs £70 and that includes free postage compared to £329 or £359 for the SRD setup. Same goes for intercoolers, I currently have a blitz intercooler and am BPU but when that dies I will see whats out there, i'm certainly not going to pay £800 for a new one thats for sure. "Oh the ebay one is only good for up to 500BHP" if you only run 400 then whats the problem? Plenty of decent stuff out there that doesnt have a nice HKS logo on it.

Welcome, yeah theres loads of good info here so well worth the tiny expense. We love all things Toyota here so get some pictures of your car up, I'd been on the lookout for a soarer for myself recently, great cars.

Nice, thought my work had finally caught on to my supra forum browsing and blocked it

Cheers for the South-West nudge I'd be in for this too.

I believe mkvsupra.net has already been purchased by the admins here from what I recall.

Just put your second cat in the boot like I do. Technically its on the car. My friendly garage always puts "exhaust noisy" on the MOT sheet to protect themselves though. Fair enough, everyones happy.

NA engines are so cheap that it's generally easier to replace the entire engine if something goes wrong. My TT is 20 years old now, how much longer are those 20 year old turbos going to last? A lot of people take that as a sign to go for a single conversion but that's a big money commitment and a BPU supra is pretty much perfect for UK roads so hopefully they hang on a good while yet. That said if I personally had a well kept NA supra I'd take a punt on an XS power setup for more power if I knew someone who could do it competently. Whats the worst that can happen? £100 - £200 and a bit of time spent.