rider

If you have a part number search for it on google and then if retailers stock it the part is available and if they say out of stock, awaiting fresh supplies it could be discontinued and if they say its a discontinued part it is pretty safe to assume its a discontinued part. US retailers, particularly official Toyota parts distributors do keep pretty much on top of this so look out for the US retail official Toyota parts dealers and head there.

One thing to potentially watch out for with a freshly machined arm, which presumably is alloy steel will be any chemical reaction between the thread and the ball joint body metal that could lead to corrosion of the thread. There probably are surfactants out there that can be applied to stabilise the thread with an inert coating or maybe even an epoxy thread lock gel/cement would do it. That last option would make it harder to change out the ball joint for a second time but how many of these cars are still running 10,000 miles a year? Alternatively, there are anaerobic gasket sealants like Permatex 51813 that may be worthwhile considering to apply onto the threaded joint which won't hamper any future disassembly.

Did you machine a thread into the arm or use a threaded ball joint adapter? The threaded adapters and threaded Mopar ball joints seem to be a popular mod in US racing circles and I could imagine that'd work with the Supra arms if there is an adapter that fits or can be machined to fit. Whichever way, it should offer hope where there was none before. I love engineering solutions to overcome an everyday problem.

Since you posted this, almost a day ago, there has been twice as many posts about cryptomania than a car called a Supra.

Don't bother with Hagerty, they only do stock or what you can convince them is stock, really, honestly. I recall that Lancaster are OK with mods and they email you an agreed value certificate too that you can stick on your garage wall.

Certainly is but always worth checking there is stock before ordering otherwise there could be a cancellation with then a couple of currency exchange hits from PayPal or a credit card company.

You never quite know with these bulkier items if the retailer actually stocks these or they are ship direct from the manufacturer. When I bought half a dozen from another retailer in 2017 they all shipped from Denso.

I believe Keron mentioned they are coming back online from Denso in May so you might want to pin your hopes onto him to bring some in. I'm not quite so sure as more and more sites are no longer just saying out of stock awaiting fresh order, timing unknown and instead saying discontinued. Not long to wait and see though so you might want to wait a while.

The Eastwood spray is the restorers go to product.

A big bang and loss of power would have me looking at the turbo impellers to check one hasn't hit the housing.

That looks really good. If you ever find it does begin to move then a possible sticky solution could be an #2 non hardening gasket.

These have only recently become discontinued so you might find some still in the supply chain if you cannot get any joy here, but best hurry.

SuperSpark was an Australian company that did a lot of development work with Holden way back before Holden was destined for closure by GM.

It's more a statement of economic fact. There are new people joining the forum regularly. I wouldn't have any problem in the slightest with people commenting on any sales threads I put up with legit comments like did you know you can still get the OE bit new for not a great deal more money. That helps the newbies and it'd also help me out as well if I wasn't actually aware of that fact. Helping any newbies take informed purchasing decisions is a big plus of any forum community.

Oh, and the OE coils come with 12 months manufacturers warranty.

Is that how they arrived, wrapped in bubble wrap? The new OE Denso packs are sealed, individually, in bags and boxed and to be brutal you can get those for not an other World amount more than you are asking.

I'd recommend you take time out to read through the insurance section on the forum as there are lots of threads about arranging agreed value insurance and also some suggesting where to pitch your price. Insurance is usually effortless with companies happy to take your money and the only differentiation tends to occur when you actually find you need to use it. So it comes down to what do you want, top cover with a top insurer or cheaper cover with an insurer that doesn't have the best customer service. Then you need to decide on value if you want to go down the agreed value route, the higher you go the more insurers you exclude as they all have ceiling values. Also, the higher the value you set the higher the premium you pay. All in all, the multitude of permutations of good insurer to not so good, high valuation to not so high can give you are very wide spread on quotes. Then you have insurers who insist on third party valuation reports but perversely won't tell you where to go for a third party valuation but they reserve the right to reject a third party valuation that they don't recognise. Try getting your head around that one, that is what Adrian Flux asked of me after I had arranged and paid for the insurance a month in advance. Others are happy to go with pictures and a write up from you telling them how well its been looked after. Insurance is a pain, so by reading up on the forum posts you can help yourself to avoid a lot of the pain.

I bought a TDV8 2008 over 3 years ago at 141k miles with no service history unseen from an eBay auction. I always expected it to break down so I had two dailies, the RR and a Mercedes 220cdi. That way, I was covered for when the RR broke down. Only it never did. So I got rid of the Merc a couple of months ago and now the 152k mile RR is my only daily driver. I like to think the reason it hasn't broken down is the preventative steps I took, nothing special I do it with every car I buy irrespective of what the paperwork says. I changed all the oils, everything - 2 difs, transfer box, gearbox and engine. I changed all filters. I changed all brake discs, pads and rear callipers. The German ZF gearbox in the RR is the known weak link, so as part of the oil change I also did the filter and while there changed all the solenoids and the mechatronic seals. I reset everything so the gearbox would do its adaptive learning from my driving style. Finally, I changed all the budget tyres (who fits budget tyres to a RR?) with Pirelli all season tyres, not cheap £160 a corner. So, all in I threw over £1,500 at the car in oil and bits and its not missed a beat. Things to look out for on a L322 Range Rover is the gearbox, does it change quickly, quietly and smoothly? The engine is fine except it needs to come out if you want to do much to it. Oil changes are a faff as there are two drain bolts on the big diesel. The air filter screws lose their heads and getting replacements is expensive not to mention it makes getting to the cleaner element difficult. The tailgate rusts on the lower lip. The electronic entertainment, Bluetooth, sat nav and radio/tv units are all located on the rear nearside behind a drop down inspection panel. Its all expensive gear and they are prone to get wet from water leaking in through the side window. Damp units are a potentially very expensive replacement cost to sort so always check they have the later RR bodge of a plastic sheet wall behind the units and that they are dry. The air compressors die every 10 years or so, just wear out. So always worthwhile checking when this was last replaced. The EGR valves are a timebomb waiting to fail. They last about 100k miles then give up and this can then lead to all sorts of engine issues so again check when these were last replaced. The air suspension units do die from old age and in the old days people would just replace them with springs and gas struts. I don't know why because reconditioned or even new units aren't that expensive. The things I love about the RR. Its so comfortable its like riding around in your favourite armchair while supping your favourite hot drink in you living room. The sound system is good and even the diesel cars are quiet. Its fast enough with almost 300bhp on the TDV8 3.6 that I have. I really like that it tells you when it needs a service, my car hasn't been serviced for 20 months and its still happy running along probably because it's only done 4,000 miles since I last serviced it. The things I don't like about the RR are the high road tax which is why I can't wait to replace it with the later SDV8 L405 sometime. Its not very economical either, does around 22mpg tootling around and 29mpg on a run. Another reason why I'm impatient to replace it with the later, more economical SDV8. When I decided to only have one daily driver, looking at the Merc or the RR to go, it wasn't even a contest.

Wasn't it Bendy whoever said he was looking at loads of sub £10k intact Supras on a daily basis, until his thread somehow disappeared. Something doesn't quite stack up with this wreck of a shell being upbid to £6k by a zero feedback buyer and the claim there are oodles of sub £10k Supras out there. What do I care, If i wanted a shell I'd go to Barmouth for the day.

Got to be worth £125 to the scrap man and £500 for the doors and lights. That perspex glass doesn't fetch much.

I used to use the handbrake to slow down on motorways when the bill were racing up behind until I realised there was only a thin covering on those shoes. Then I kept to 70mph.

Or 6 minutes if you wind the adjuster the wrong way

There is a Jspec Turbo Auto from a deceased estate on sale at Brightwells ending in 2 days. Currently at £24k + 12% buyers premium + VAT on the buyers premium.

Its good to see some of the arms are still available. I thought all the top arms had gone apart from a Moog very cheap effort. Seeing all those bolts reminds me of many happy minutes trying to peel those p/n stickers off. Soaking didn't seem to help. Took forever one tiny tear at a time. Hours of fun ahead for you.