rider

I'd check that Denso recommendation as I have seen the 471-1205 sold as the one to buy. I think that comes with the clutch so maybe that is the difference? You can do the leg work researching it, I'm off to the pub in a few minutes. Here are a couple of links https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/denso,4711205,a/c+compressor,6628 https://www.mvpmotorsports.com/denso/denso-a/c-compressor/4711205/i-2245440.aspx I have a RA discount code for a 5% discount giving a delivered duty paid price of around £250 for a new compressor by the time your credit car applies a foreign transaction fee. Code is 178002326162134790

If you grab the shaft with both hands and can rotate it with the road wheel of the ground then you know the shaft isn't stuck or glued to the diff and that will confirm its a clearance issue. If you find you cannot rotate the shaft with all the bolts out then you need to get banging it with a rubber or hide mallet. PS - make sure the car is in gear.

If you have lowered the diff by removing the one rear hex nut on a NA (two on a TT) and lowering the two front bolts then I'd expect it to drop out. This on forum picture shows the size/depth of the grease caps you need to clear from the diff coupling. http://jza80.mkivsupra.net/monthly_2021_06/IMG_1274.JPEG.29055c0735dfa6a6e8bab4bce18fe9fb.JPEG PS - Did you did removed the large hub nut (30mm) from the end of the drive shaft?

Theft is a usually treated as civil (that's what you have insurance for) matter, fraud is a serious criminal offence in law. It'd be worth talking to the police with an approach of I have been defrauded out of £15k and a lot of parts appear to have been stolen to boot. Police cannot ignore an accusation of fraud and £15k will be regarded as a significant sum of money to have defrauded.

If you have removed all the bolts holding the shafts to the differential then they should drop off. There is no real reason why they wouldn't just drop off unless you still have one end splined into the hub then there probably isn't enough room to just drop off as they have a quite a pronounced domed grease cap behind the diff coupling.

That is correct, the fuel will age better as well with limited headspace available for temperature fluctuation breathing bringing in fresh moisture that'll end up in the fuel.

Here is a video on additive comparison for water in fuel. I think the Miller Genuine Draught would probably be the best, I used to drink that stuff when I lived in the US. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CpvaJmVcf0k

There will be more availability on additives you put in the tank containing corrosion inhibitor phosphates and ethanol stabilizers which will likely be alkanes or higher carbon alcohols. Phase separation and steel corrosion will be easy to address, aluminium and brass corrosion and rubber degradation somewhat harder. It's easy to run the fuel out on carburettor cars, so owners should just run the carbs dry before parking up and have a full tank of fuel with some ethanol fuel stabiliser additive to minimise tank breathing. With hoses we may well see similar to flexible A/C lines the wider introduction of plastic inner lined rubber tubing. Its not like the technologies aren't there, it'll just need sufficient market demand to make it happen. Or Andy Ven.

Japanese Premium fuel was 95RON back in the 90's (96 today) with regular 89RON. All Japanese car engines were designed in the 90's to run on 89 or 95 RON, the higher grade in Europe equivalency is standard grade petrol. Japan has never had the 98 UK Premium or 100 old 5 Star RON fuels in its domestic market.

Its enough to make you want to cry. It looks like E10 fuel stabalis(z)ers might be the answer for cars that get placed on SORN over winter months, the other recommendation with E10 is either to drain or completely fill your fuel tank if the vehicle is to be stored for any period. Also to drain the fuel bowls in carburettors. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UvS_D4_lF5U

There have been reports and videos on in particular USA classic cars that use steel tanks, brake and fuel lines having corrosion issues with E10 fuels. Its also reported that you should 'expect' phase separation if the fuel is stored (in a tank) for more than 100 days with a water/ethanol phase sitting at the bottom of carb float champers or fuel tanks. So unless your car is used regularly and tank filled regularly E10 has issues. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PKrdOMTaaTQ

You can run into the small print black hole with that approach as insurers can have get out of jail clauses for cars that have been out of production for X number of years. Which, if you are an insurer is sensible as parts may no longer be available to repair the car following an accident and valuation becomes more subjective.

How many people with a £40k pay-out will think I need to go straight out and find that replacement Supra? We saw from the how long have you owner your car survey that most respondents have had their cars a very long time. I'd think that very few of those would look to replace their stolen, cannibalised or crushed Supra with another Supra. If you have lived with a car for decades nothing would ever feel the same. You'd be much more likely to treat the wife to a conservatory.

It was US info so it could just be the aero knowing the yanks love the targa top and have little regard for anything they aren't interested in.

I read it on a couple of web pages so its only as accurate as the individuals who wrote the web page using actual data or a copied figure. The actual figure quoted was 352 units produced over two years of production, 93 & 94.

Seeing only 350 were ever made there are probably only 200 left in the World today. and I wrote this in December 2019 on my last valuation threads responding to a specific GZ question: "Personally, if it were my with a car in top condition, numbers matching, stock then I'd be seeking to insure an auto TT at £30k knowing that in any total loss its probably the car that would be near impossible to replace. If it were the factory 6sp Aero TT then £40-45k knowing that in a total loss it is the car that would be impossible to replace and that the aero will always be a popular and rare choice in foreign markets, probably more so than here in the UK. " and prices have risen by 30% since then I'd be looking at £39k insured value for a GZ Auto in tip top condition. PS - You have every right to revisit you valuation mid-term in a policy and it is particularly required for Surpa owners as most of that 30% inflation in the last 18 months has occurred in the last 6 to 9 months. Price rises were running at 30% in 2017 and 18 but took a breather for 6 months in 2019 before bolting off again. When you have such hyper inflation you do need to constantly reassess if your insured value is suitable and also you have to start considering if you need to hedge in a bit of surplus to give you a few months off from fretting over the price rises relative to your agreed insurance value.

If it were my predicament I'd seriously consider selling the rolling shell as they are fetching good money these days and people can drop any motor and transmission they want into a shell which gives it a wide market base to appeal to. It would solve your problem of finding all the bits to get a complete car back together, which would be a nightmare of epic proportions. With cash in hand you can decide whether you want to go the Supra route or give it up as a bad episode, it'd be cheaper to buy a whole one than try to get this stripped shell back together without access to the original missing parts.

The bullitt Mustang sold for nearly $5mn recently so plenty of room left.

I mostly see these at Canadian breakers who are scrapping JDM imports for the ooowwwwww so expensive parts. Good news is there isn't much demand for RHD dashes in North America so they tend to be offered for a few hundred Canadian. Place a search with notification on the Canadian and USA eBay sites and one will happen along sometime.

The seats have been recovered but I was referring to the bolsters that usually get squashed/crushed on the exit side of the drivers seat and these look to be very nicely shaped, plump and firm.

The seat bolsters look to be in really great condition for the mileage. you see some (actually most) 60k mile Supras with much more wear on the seats. I maintain a healthy scepticism for these great many 60k mile Supras around which makes a genuine car all the more impressive. Beware traders in disguise.

I actually think the pre-facelift wheels look better than the facelift ones but I'd expect the reason behind the price differential in favour of pre-facelift wheels is that 80% of the A80 Supra production was pre-facelift making the demand naturally 4 times higher for those seeking the stock look.

One day you'll be able to write, they aren't laughing now. Price is always what someone is prepared to pay and what the other person is prepared to take. If you aren't fussed about selling to someone who really wants those wheels they are £1,000 all day long. If you are desperate to sell to someone who isn't fussed about buying they are £350 wheels.

The pre-facelift wheels are worth a lot more than the facelift wheels. In a non stock colour it'd need someone to want that colour to not detract from the price. In the USA people are now asking up to $2k for pre-facelift OEM wheels. Here you wouldn't want to part for less than £1k as they will add up to £2k to a stock cars value over an otherwise stock car on non stock wheels. Also reflected in the prices is the knowledge that once parted you'll find it very hard to be reunited.

For small repairs there is the silver electrical paint that is a common fix to heated screen broken filaments. You used to be able to buy it in brush top glass bottles but seems to come in syringe form these days. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Conductive-Silver-Paint-Varnish-Electrically/dp/B00PSKQZ60