Scooter

If you only suspect that seal then check out the oil pressure sensor too, as it's in the same area (but further forward behind the aircon compressor) and can go.

How do/did you feel about it? Not surprised it sold, it's still a big chunk of cash but compared to the over £20K NA's it's a very good deal for someone. Just out of interest which one of your other cars is your favourite?

People like Ian C, Andy Blyth (and many others who's names escape me) put in and posted up some serious work and now lots are gone or less active I just try and use my memories of it to fast track someone now looking for help. I was a total newbie back in 2000-01, I remember driving my first NA home very gently as it hadn't had a cambelt change, I was totally ignorant of the non interference design. Drove my second one (manual UK TT) home in 5th, forgetting there was even a 6th! Despite driving a 20 mpg car like this I honestly think it's saved me a lot of money over other (performance) routes I could have gone and given me so many smiles per mile (I will die having done more miles in a Mkiv than any other car that's for sure!) Forum has been invaluable and I still find myself checking it out most days. High prices, lack of parts and use by most, has just reduced the forum traffic and activity. Far more paying recent/todays prices will be the throw it at SRD etc types, nowt wrong with that but it further reduces the activity here, although it's still more active than most single car forums.

As you are stateside I guess, then Supraforums would be a good place to get advice too. Websites, Goonet lets you see Japan auction cars.

Good idea, you want as good a base as possible really and so worth considering all available cars.

Given the inflation since, that could almost support the current prices for a minter! It just shows how expensive it was when new, and then how almost criminally cheap/unloved they became in a short period of time? I will never forgot the £6,700 JM Imports sales invoice I had in the service history of one of mine. That was for a boggo standard silver RZ auto, so a TT auto from the Japanese auction, with shipping, duty, Vat and Jurgens profit added!?

I find it hard to even comment on these threads as I've seen and purchased/sold NA's in the £2.5-£5K region over the years and so I find it hard to equate to today. Prices back then were exceptional value for money, which was a huge reason to buy a Supra in the first place, now it just feels wrong to me, but if you want one (and that I can understand) then this is the new reality. All you can do is take your time and make the best choice you can, which seems to be what you are doing. Maybe PM some of the owners in this thread?

I think you can get the few K more than the PX easily. If the mileage can be proven as much as possible then it should fetch even more or at least could be advertised with the others. I think almost any reasonable TT would go almost instantly at £19,995 and yet it might be suffering in areas (dash/paint in places/tired suspension from higher mileage etc) that to make mint would add up to more than yours at £29,995. Ie arguably yours would be far better value for money but harder to sell.

I struggle to find a post I saw yesterday on Facebook! when on here I can search and find threads from a decade ago. It's an invaluable resource, there is a thread about virtually anything technical to help you resolve any problems. I think the 'golden' forum years had some truely hands on innovators that invested lots of time and posted regularly (some are still on but less active). Some moved on and lower levels of ownership and general annual usage now means there is just less chit chat technical or otherwise. The older days when the cars were cheaper saw a constant influx of owners, some might argue not always for the better but largely it was IMO and it certainly made things more lively.

Perhaps this one and sell the single kit? https://www.pistonheads.com/buy/listing/13360157?fbclid=IwAR2oMxanFsM9qbXWIpoEXitSDhMwQMc8RQPAq01cC2KfFG75Neh4ypEkHwQ

Sorry missed this, no red interior no, it's a facelift black one on autotrader for £25K. The car looks ok and 100% has ABS, which perhaps the High Wycombe one didn't (rear right of engine bay when standing in front should be a square block with brakes lines to and from it - early NA's didn't always have it) Aerotop is next more expensive (they are all over priced in my 2010 pricing brain!) on autotrader and seems clean too. Value for money seems to have disappeared these days but at least that means you can peruse at leisure as very very few people will be in the market for £25K NA's or £45K tt's

Appreciate its expensive but all of them are now... I'd checkout the late low mile aerotop with a view to converting to manual if you must.

black facelift on autotrader not appealing?

Sorry I wasn't saying it wasn't fair, it's had loads of good work done to it and hence is 'value' in this market I think, it's just a waiting game for one of the (very?) few people who want to spend that level of money.

I've not seen it for sale elsewhere so that must be a part of it? It's had lot of work done on it that 99% of those for sale in the 30's needs or soon will do!? £40K here seems to be just too much for buyers? The mint RSP NA convert aerotop is also very very clean but hasn't sold (looks like it might have now?). There is a minter fresh import black TT6 that's appeared recently priced at over £70K so that will be interesting see it go........collectors car so 'might' sell easier despite the premium?

Ah ok, I'm just the north side of the Hindhead tunnel on the A3, I'm wondering if my ancient old toyota diagnostics machine might help. I'm sure it had something re the injectors in real time, but whether that was monitoring them when it was running only I'm not sure. I'll try and remember to have a look at its manual tonight.

tayr where are you based?

Seems they've made some software etc changes to smooth the manual action, ie you and your feet aren't in total control and efforts have been presumably to smooth shifts/make it launchable/manageable?

Not seen a thread re this news, anyone tempted?

Agreed, the 'chip' is nothing more than removing the restriction on assistance at 15mph, with ebikes extra weight and often chunky tyres etc above 15mph will feel a bit like hitting a brick wall, at 15mph plus it'd be easier going on a normal bike, but then on a hill that would be a killer! Ebikes that are strictly within the law are this trade off, chipped/delimited ones are the best practically for the user, as you can cruise at say 20mph or if in a hurry 30mph etc with not a huge amount of extra effort (just shorter battery range) but fall foul of current legislation.

Dunk, the ebike over a certain figure they can consider motorised transport and expect an MOT insurance etc etc, it's like the scoooters there is no specific legislation and so many are illegal and so confiscated. Ark, is right in that a modified/delimited bike is very unlikely to have your collar felt, but it's worth noting the consequences can be quite severe as they then possibly impact your driving license/costs although not much real evidence of this https://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threads/does-anyone-know-of-an-ebike-rider-being-prosecuted-for-riding-a-bike-of-over-250-watts.41766/

Anyone ever seen/used a Swytch conversion?

"Current laws restrict e-bikes to 15.5mph – or 25km/h – which means when you hit that speed, the engine will cut out. The power put out by an 'electronically assisted pedal cycle' also must not exceed 250 watts" I think they are great (My 70+ father has one) but the 15mph cut out is a pain, you can get them delimited but then you risk this.. "However, suppose your bike is illegal or doesn't meet the UK laws on electrically assisted pedal cycles. In that case, you may be prosecuted for riding an electric bike without license, insurance, or even exceeding the speed limit. Such misconduct could get points on your license or even a fine." ...not good! If you are worried about hills, then it'll be great for those and then you can push yourself on the flat, as above 15mph it'll be all your effort? You'll be able to breeze up any hill gradient just at less than 15mph. Perfect way to get back on a bike, just costly compared to a regular bike.

i know you say you've checked the fuel pump ecu etc but I'm just wondering if you tried to actually start it up with the diagnostic port bridged? Ie bridge ports so you hear the pump running and then try and fire her up?

Fair enough, you could always do a later conversion to manual (there are a few options these days if you didn't have to be a V160 purist), or an NA manual and you could do a mild NA-T conversion and keep the W58.