Scooter

Thanks Andrew, if it goes it's the end of an over 20 year era for me, sort of sad times but I have moved back to the cheaper performance car area where I feel more at home! It's been a great car to own, thanks to you and Martin, it's the longest I've ever kept one, and still raises a smile and not just me but every time I take it out I see a reaction from someone. Gonna drive it to work tomorrow and then clean it at the weekend, just to check I've de-bonded enough!

I may be selling a lot of stuff soon, I have all four corners with driveshafts and ABS sensors and all arms as well as the hubs? Hoping to sell complete, but it depends, just in case you were interested in the lot as they are? I may end up spliting depending on demand/prices etc Apologies for the upsidedown iphone pic!!

I have some Glass ones (which tend to be more expensive?) that have black insides.........I'll get some pics

Cheers guys, the price reflects my thought on a combination of the work needed to bring it back to good visual condition (it'll need money spending to get it looking like the pictures posted so far), what I bought it for and just my gut feel/comfort level forum wise. I think it's priced such that after doing remedial work it'll then be worth that spend on top, so a good base car? Even with the cost of a glass out respray it might be worth this plus that spend afterwards? I am going to spend some time this weekend prepping it and will take loads of photos in and under. Rider, I will look into auctions but I'd like a person to get it without the middle man premium and so willing to let it sit just on here for a bit.

Excuse the following blurb it is a work in progress and ultimately for a general sale but I wanted to pop it on here in case someone is interested. Car isn't prepared for sale as yet, I need to spend some time at the weekends to do that so it won't be being advertised elsewhere for a while. ------------------------------------------------- This is a genuine low mileage 1996 facelift (non VVTI) Japanese imported car. I'm the 3rd UK owner and I knew the previous 2 owners from the Supra owners club and I have saved some provenence from both, that verify the original mileage on import and subsequent miles. The car drives very well, the autobox is faultless and is very competent for it's age (try it and see for yourself!) and overall the car still feels tight, it has the basic BPU mods and runs a restrictor ring to keep it to a very safe 1.15 bar of boost (boost controller is present but is only rigged up as a gauge, with a warning and peak hold indicator). The heater blows very hot and the aircon works well, the rear hatch has no rust, the dash, steering wheel and auto shifter are near perfect. The engine bay is honest and leak free, some pipes were chromed many years ago and it doesn't now look the best (certainly doesn't externally look it's low mileage), but it's sequential turbos boost so nicely I haven't tinkered with it just to make it look nice I will get more pictures of the car up soon but the silver wheels are 19" and on the car at the moment, the gold wheels are 18" I still have but they need a refurb, I have the smaller J-spec brakes on it with uprated front pads, but both sets of wheels will fit over the large brake setup if that was to be fitted. I have used opie oils Titan/Fuchs Titan Race Pro fully sythetic oil to keep the low miles engine as fresh as possible, looking down the oil cap you can see no carbonisation that they can suffer from if oil intervals are extended or the oil used is of lower quality (this does back up the low mileage). You can see from the Mot history I've done low miles each year as have the previous owners but it's never been sat for any extended periods. It's had replacement engine mounts and a crank pulley so a couple of the age related issues sorted. Bad points are door handles faded, bonnet takes some polishing to get nice, likewise the bumpers are stone chipped and tatty, and someone reversed into and very slightly cracked the front bumper (see the plaster sticker!). The old radio/stereo doesn't work (haven't investigated this as I drive it so little and when I do I'm happy listening to the car!),The fronts seats have started peeling (I got stitched up buying leather seats that turn out not to be leather! Standard seats available for £200 on facebook) and the alarmkey fobs while working are in a very poor state. Essentially all the cars issues can be physically seen, and are cosmetic so again come and see it in the flesh to assess easily and fully. Door cards, dash, steering wheel and auto shifter are very much in line with the cars low miles. It's a great car, it's never given me mechanical trouble and when you see some for sale with over 150K miles you can understand why. I'd happily drive anywhere in it with no fear, but it is cosmetically challenged in some areas hence the price, I have been open and honest about this and the price reflects these issues, it is priced around the same as some non turbo models and just a short drive in this would prove that performance wise there is no comparison. You could spend a lot more and get a lot worse car. I'm 50 now and just feel it's time to move on, time, motivation and ability to tackle all the little things is lacking, made harder by the fact that it's on my parents drive as my new house has a drive incompatible with the low/large overhang front bumper. 1st Owner https://www.mkivsupra.net/topic/77601-who-has-the-lowest-mileage-on-their-supra/#comment-1046545 Sale advert pre 2nd UK owner https://www.mkivsupra.net/topic/147904-stunning-example-of-tt-rz-s-bpu-red-auto/ 2nd UK Owner https://www.mkivsupra.net/topic/192522-import-1996-rz-s-low-mileage-red-auto-bpu/?tab=comments#comment-2729457 "The odometer was then changed at 45,400km's" ie 28210 miles If reading is now 71000 (i need to check but it's around that), then that's (71,000-45400) 25,600 miles plus the 28,210 miles - 53,810 Miles £25,995 already the cheapest up together TT for sale on autotrader, it has genuine (about as good provenance as you can hope for x3 forum owners) low miles, but this gives a generous budget for the cosmetic fettling at your leisure? Offers or opinions on price invited. Pictures are from around when I got it, the front and rear bumpers are now not in great condition and the seats have the leather(ette) flaking but it shows the general look. Axis Hiro's now on the car, will update at the weekend.

re the drill usage, all pointing to a failed pump, hope finding a replacement isn't too hard.

Mike, thanks for repsonding, your story is not unique re it's reliability, but I'd say for your length of ownership and the fact you've actually used it during that time is good going even for a Supra and perhaps part of the reason it's been kept for so long, so dependable? I can only imagine what some other early 90's cars would have cost you for the same time period and mileage! I work in Woking (Mclarenville) and often drive on the route to Goodwood Circuit so see all manor of new and old expensive machinery but the Supra is a rare site these days and it does elicit good (in the main!) reactions.

Doesn't look ideal! It would only be a dribble by hand as you can't spin it fast. If you really wanted to test it you could refit the belt, brim the reservoir and (carefully) have the return in a separate bottle, then (perhaps have a helper) briefly start the car and shut off (it's surprising how quickly the fluid flows at idle revs) When changing fluid in the past I've done this with the addition of a 500ml drinks bottle secured on top of the reservior to increase capacity, the flow it that quick and you don't want the fluid in the reservior running dry as then you get lots of air in the system. If then you don't get any flow, I can only think it must be goosed. (have you checked the 'bellows' on the steering rack aren't full of fluid?)

What happens if, 1) you remove the aux belt 2) remove the return pipe (plug/bung the hole up, syringe out fluid first if you or undo the res and tilt as you remove the return line) 3) Hold the return pipe over the open reservoir top 4) use your finger to spin the Power steering pump pulley 5) check for flow ie is the pump working I believe it's a simple system, if you have enough fluid and the pump is driven and pumping

Mike, congrats on keeping the car so long, I always like to ask long term owners what has gone wrong in that over 200K miles, have you ever been stranded (perhaps by the original alarm!) or had a big expense? Also to afford a pretty much brand new one back then, I suspect most owners like that would have their heads turned in the years following and many will have moved on to 'better' things, did you ever waver and nearly sell, and what made you stick with the Supra in the end for all that time. best of luck with the eventual sale.

Map sensor testing - looks very comprehensive https://my.prostreetonline.com/2013/11/20/how-to-test-your-2jz-mass-airflow-sensor/ Check the idle control valve hose (filter in this threads pic)? https://www.supraforums.com/threads/cannot-run-with-maf-plugged-in.166713/ Second post has a link to the Toyota diagnostic manual https://www.supraforums.com/threads/maf-sensor-testing-schematic.631888/

Looks like it's not uncommon symptoms, searching for a thread (US supras all had MAF so answer could be on their sites) with a fix or more info at least https://www.supraforums.com/threads/mass-air-flow-sensor-problem.564796/page-2

and it's a UK spec (re the MAF?)

Just to perhaps help further. It starts and idles fine How does it act if you rev it from idle, ie by hand in the engine bay, does it rev up cleanly, ie the hesitation is only when drivng/under load? Is it ok it driven very slowly, low revs no real boost, and worse with more throttle, or just always rough?

well maybe the mods can sort that out, I think it's automatic, nothing to do with me.

and that post was 2 hours ago, what does it matter? On balance I'd say my post is slightly more helpful to the OP than yours? As you onbviously had a similar issue 9 years ago perhaps you can provide some direct insight, or does it being 9 years ago negate there being any possible relevance?

Are the coil pack and or connectors new?

Katie, I'm only a few miles away in Elstead/Thursley and so can likely do this for you, will email you in a bit.

Check this rod is still linked?

It's a strange market, quite a few for sale with few buyers it seems? Seemingly has to be a wreck to be below £20K but given the prices of parts and work a decently refreshed or very good original car at over £40k can be a good deal incomparison? It's relative to me because I am living in the past and ALL these prices seem crazy! I think all my 10 supras purchase prices add up to around £70K (3 were under £5K) so I struggle with the prices, however as long as the prices hold up and it feels pretty certain they are/will then the purchase price doesn't really matter for a new buyer now? Just makes the initial purchase very very important to get right. I'd view some, get to a show where they'll be a range of them etc, the prices now at least mean there is no clamour for them, you can take your time and be picky.

"Paul Cheshire" is a name on here The link below points to potentially the type of car that fits your wishes (especially if you want a manual twin turbo) I still think the prices are way too high but I come from a time when they were silly cheap for 15 or more years https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/203893265414608/?ref=search&referral_code=null&referral_story_type=post&tracking=browse_serp%3Adebc8318-ad48-4fd2-942c-2293e4332568 OP where are you based?

Ok I'll try and give some experience/thoughts, may well be a bit rambling! I don't really think of them as classics, but appreciate they are or very much on their way. I say this partly as lots and lots will not have been refreshed at all. It doesn't make them bad cars I'm just pointing out that the huge reliablilty and build quality means that +25 year old cars can be on original (pretty much) everything. We have only recently seen the start of people restoring them properly, underside/total refreshes, lots of cars are more original but the prices of either aren't that far apart. Parts are getting harder to come by now too and so unlike in the past a lower priced one is not always going to end up being the best buy even if you are prepared to take on the refresh work. Again 25 years old and many will be very good/clean, rust was never an issue but is slowly creeping in, the boot hatch around the glass is a classic area, and then the sills have been known to go, as have the plastic coated steel brake/fuel hardlines. For a long term owner like myself it feels like now is the hardest time to buy, everything is expensive and most needs some sort of work on top, and then used parts are very expensive and new parts sometimes discontinued. This isn't to put you off but you did ask for any problems! Are you open to all types Non turbo as well as the twin turbos? This will obviously broaden your choice and the non turbos are often more stock (power mods aren't cost effective or plain effective!

Check the turbo side ones, I had a pin hole leak on one of the thin front ones my old supras and when I took it off it was solid and crumbly.

last post on this link

there's little rubber sections to/from the oil filter housing I think.