kjgreen3

With Cameron at the wheel, in the future you may not be far off with that statement

PM Heckler He's a Forum approved hobbyist and supra electronics Guru. He can build you a bespoke unit. Here is his thread. Click: http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?231724-Face-Lift-Dash-PCB-s-in-Blue&highlight=Heckler Hope this helps.

In no particular order and I've added a favourite track from each artist. 36 Crazyfists BnWVFP-cdSs Korn SGK00Q7xx-s&ob=av2e Metallica -TVqqnSCXcE Avenged Sevenfold VurhzANQ_B0&ob=av2e Pearl Jam xfqzQKt9UeA

Sounds good let us know how you go on with the installation.

Ah I see, remember the Fuse/breaker is only there to protect the cable. If the runs are short It may be cost effective to run more thinner cable on smaller breakers (if you have space in the distribution board) example you have 20 6 foot lights running off two 16 amp breakers you could run it off 4x 6 amp breakers feeding 4x 1mm2 cable (Also if you have a fault on a circuit it will only knock out 5 light fittings instead of ten) infact quick calculation; 20 single tube fluorescents = 20x 70 watt = 1440Watt /230 = 6.26A So if you like you could run that off a single 10A circuit on 1.5mm cable and run another 10A 1.5mm cable to each of the lights where in the future you may want to put up halogens.

Sorry just seen you are running 2.5mm2, I assumed it was 1.5mm2. Why are you running 2.5mm2 for lighting circuits?

Check yellow pages for any local electrical wholesalers and give them a bell to find prices. In sheffield its roughly £37 + VAT for 100m of 1.5mm2 Twin+ Earth from my wholesalers. If you don't have too many (or high powered) lights you could get away with 1.0mm2 twin + Earth as long as it was fused correctly. Alternatively if the cabling is to be tested after installation (I hope so!) you could try the local scrappies and if anyone comes in with some part coils or even full ones you could buy it off the scrappy for the cost of how much copper they would get out of it (probably 15-20 quid per 100m).

Taken it twice since becoming an electrician (had to renew after 3 years), first time IIRC lasted 30 mins (out of 45) as I triple checked every answer. Second time 3 years later took me less than 15 mins. Both sittings passed first time. Only thing that can catch you out is one of two daft questions (where its so badly worded it could be one of two answers) or the colour coded fire extinguishers as mentioned.

Top page "internetwork" not just to do with LED's but you have a lot of useful information to do with Supras. Had to like it, considering my sig references you and your top work

Maybe not, maybe he lurked for a year or two like me before joining properly. I too PM'd a MOD (Homer I think.....) a couple of weeks ago as I think my recent renewal this month was my 3rd yearly payment therefore giving me lifetime membership woop! Hopefully if the appropriate mod is reading this thread he can sort out NOZ, me and westy882. Sorry for the Hijack Noz.

Are you romanian?

I know rogue traders are wrong, seems like you are waging a one man war against them but they are easily dealt with a few simple steps. Don't let in cold calling tradesmen for a start. If you need work carried out by a trademen ask family or friends if they can recommend a decent one. If that isn't an option ring a tradesmen up and ask to see a portfolio of some of their work (if a big job) and speak to some of their previous customers to see if they are suitable. As 90% of work that most small firms/sole traders get if from recommendations or word of mouth. Check that they are registered with the suitable trade body (Gas = Gassafe, Electricians = EAL,NICEIC etc.) Get a fixed WRITTEN price for the work to be carried out first before letting them commence. If its a long job, get a breakdown on a week by week or month by month basis and pay in stages, then you can keep tabs on the standard of work and only pay for what has been done. If you follow those steps you won't get conned. Again like I stated you have to let them in first, most people are conned because they don't do some basic research. You wouldn't buy a car for £40k without looking at it and taking it for a test drive and maybe checking its history if its second hand (or motoring reviews if its new). The same applies to a £40k extension to a house. I still state that the romanian child beggars are as bad (in different ways) as rogue traders as they aren't as easily dealt with, plus they are conning this country's benefit system out of millions of pounds every year. If they were just begging and not claiming I wouldn't have a problem. They are criminals like the rogue traders (although not the children, I'm talking about their families/minders). Also IMI the BBC will be biased to making 'entertaining' TV. I know its called Rogue Traders but why not give a balanced view and show some tradesmen who do a good job at a fair price? We shouldn't all be tarred with the same brush.

Simply put thay are bad as each other in different ways. However the vunerable and elderly still have to give over their money which is a CHOICE they have. God knows why anyone hands over large sums before work is carried out or completed. I doubt the child beggars have a CHOICE whether or not to beg, especially the ones who have to answer to an organised criminal element if they fail to turn up/make the expected amount of money from a days begging. Regarding the comment that these beggars are an annoyance, try looking further up the chain. The monies they earn fund worse things in this world.

Yes at least 99% of Rogue traders pay some kind of tax into the system (to try and look legit if nothing else). I doubt these beggars have paid anything towards the country they are effectively robbing from.

What about getting 3 more space savers? Its not like you will be going above 50 mph in snowy conditions anyway. They are skinny enough to grip well in snow.

+1 For Vredesteins (spelling is correct btw) in wet conditions (yet to drive them in the snow). They also are pretty good as a dry weather tyre, although no idea if they would be good for drifting or the track.

My dad had one for 7 years, for simplicity I will list good and bad points. Good Bought 2nd hand 3 years old for 30k (actually 20k as NA supe was traded as part ex for 10k) so had depreciated by 25k in 3 years! Sound of the engine can be heard from 2 miles away with the right exhaust. Acceleration was 3.7 secs with the red rose kit on the 4.5L version. Stupidity of the lack of safety features, no trac control airbag etc meant its a true drivers car which WILL KILL YOU if you make a mistake (this I suppose can either be a good or bad point depending on your viewpoint). Bad Every 3-4 weeks something broke, usually throttle pots even main TVR dealer in Blackpool couldn't suss one problem which had it running on 4 cylinders for a fair few months, not nice Electrics put together by blind YTS students using parts found in MAPLINS binned/out of date stock. Seriously Electrics were in ABS plastic boxes Velcroed to the inside of the boot lining! Spaceframe chassis made out of toffee and had to be completely removed and replaced at the grand old age of 5 years. Wouldn't start 20% of the time if the electrics were having an off day. Leaked in heavy rain through window rubbers Economy less than 5 miles to a gallon if driving it like you stole it Interior build quality very poor Exterior build quality poor Mechanical build quality poor Did I mention Electrics?.......... Overall Dad bought it for 30k had it for 7 years, cost him +40k in repairs/servicing/lost time over that period. For the last 2 years he had the car up for sale but still used it. So 70k in total and it so definately wasn't worth it. If you still want one I would say find a dealer pay him a grand and see if he will lease it to you for a month (HE will be praying you bin it though so he can get some money back through the insurance)

Amazing been randomly trying all modes out except campaign (saving that for the wknd). Beast mode is funny as, (think opposite to Horde) I love whizzing about as a ticker and blowing up COG members! Glad they have brought back the beserker from Gears 1 that mother is twice as hard to kill now.

Not my thing but as stated not the best music video, this is one of my top ten music videos but in the grand scheme of things it probably ranks in the top 100,000 Oh quick EDIT: NSFW contains very adult themes, no nudity, some swearing

Embedding isn't my thing!

A bit like religious texts

Very sorry to hear about your burglary like many others I know how you feel being a victim a few times myself (Car x2 house x1, Family business x 5). But I may be able to help with the means of their entry. They may have "bumped" the lock on the porch door (google bumping plenty of you tube videos showing exactly how it can be done). It happened to me but luckily I was in the flat at the time, It was late, the front door was locked (by a REKO lock one of the best security locks in the business) but I heard a scrabling sound and woke up to someone opening the door. I don't think he was expecting to be greeted by a half naked man holding a 20 oz claw hammer Anyway he legged it after I lunged at him. After he had gone I checked the lock and door for damage and their was none, based on that I thought (based on previous experiences) calling the coppers was a waste of my time and theirs as nothing was taken. Anyway I searched on the internet for how this guy could have gotten in and "bumping" the lock seemed the likeliest method which he used. As I said feel for your loss, but I hope this may answer your question and help you in the future with securing the property.

Surely having an intruder alarm fully set up and working would deter them, as if they get in (broken in, unforced entry) and the system was linked to the police then questions would have to be answered as why they are there? Why they can't turn off the alarm? Why they aren't the registered owner/tenant of the property? Also if they damaged the alarm then, criminal damage charges could be filed. Although a big guard dog trained to bite smelly hippy type people would be a cheaper easier solution!

You've probably seen this already on the RS website but heres the pdf specs. for the switch. http://docs-europe.electrocomponents.com/webdocs/0bf3/0900766b80bf35d8.pdf Bottom of page 3 has the pin out showing a common connection you can use as the earth common pin 4 IIRC.

Yes that would do it although contacts are only rated at 50mA although I suspect it wont be switching a highly current resistive load probably only momentary switching for the DASH 2 display.