spartan

I spent a bit more time on mine with the multimeter, concentrating on voltage (not just continuity) and found the problem: with a HID wiring harness in place there's nothing between the battery and the ballast units other than the 'new' relay (switched when you turn your lights on); when the meter told me that the voltage at the ballast was just 6V (reading the specs, most need at least 8v to kick), I realised then the rest was across the relay (and the resistance must be about the same as the non-working ballast to half the voltage). The relay looked OK but as soon as I disconnected the socket, I could see pin 30 was completely black/burnt. Now I'm sure these wiring harnesses are the best way to add HID but for their all-in cost (~£4), they're probably not using the best quality components. The replacement relay (admittedly from from Halfrauds - only place open after work) cost more than a fiver ... Here's hoping I never have to get that bottom nut on/off the rhs light - without fear of dropping the thing - ever again!

I feared that might be the case. Which HID kit did you get?

Mine has just done exactly the same thing and I am using a HID wiring harness. I've been all over the wiring with a multimeter and so far everything checks out. Very strange.

PM'd

Hi Asking on behalf of Mark Barnett (Kip) who doesn't get the chance to get on the forum these days. He's just looking for a standard TT exhaust to replace the one on his current car which could be on the way out. He's happy to collect but be aware he's in Wiltshire, near Salisbury. If you have one lying around, gathering dust or cluttering up the place, please contact him via e-mail: [email protected] Thanks!

There's also this: HSD coilovers vs TEIN's

PM'd

I changed from the Potenza's RE050s to Conti. Sport Contact 3s. For my driving style, I find the CSC3s superior and for value (£100/corner) I think they're hard to beat. HTH

Did this system actually come out of a tiptronic car or has the steering wheel just had the parts added, do you know? Cheers

In my opinion (and I must admit I haven't heard/read any others) they are too strong for the stock spoiler.

Yep - that's where I got mine (and maybe I was lucky to get them too but that's another story). PM'd Kev and I think we have an arrangement.

Great link! I have an original brochure for the Supra that coincides with the release of the VVTi engine on the TT - September 1997. OK, the text is all in Japanese but there's one of those feature comparison tables that clearly shows that REAS is standard on the 'top' manual models only and not available as an option on other models. I guess it could have changed later but I've never seen that. REAS is rare but that's because 1997.09+ RZ and SZ-R cars are pretty scarce even in Japan - RZ-S and SZ models are far more common (presumably because they were considerably cheaper when new). Even on pukka cars the REAS is often missing now because it's so expensive to repair (official service manuals suggest you can replace one side once, after that you have to change the pair together) so often replaced with a standard/after-market set-up. It would be great to see some pictures of your new system. From what I have read, I would suggest that when refitting only split the hoses at the built in check-valves and ensure that both sides are fitted before loading the suspension.

REAS was only fitted as standard on 97.09+ RZ and SZ-R models. I don't think it was available even as an option on other models. As has already been mentioned, the shocks are red and there is an oil line that comes off and joins to a central control reservoir/piston (makes it very tricky to remove/service). Hope that helps.

Yes - pressure too high for standard boot spoiler? I can barely pull it closed!

Where misquotes were made, I corrected the scores with a new post (as you can see). In my opinion, this thread is meaningful and has the potential to be even more useful, the more members post their scores and opinions (the 452s Jamie mentions being a case in point - all those positive scores offset by a similar number of negatives).

PM'd

PM'd.

No problem - thanks for letting me know.

Has everyone else got their struts back now? Still no sign of mine ...

I think I know what you mean. I have read that, despite the VSV activating, the IACV won't actually be fully open until the pressure fed via the VSV reaches 0.5 bar; it's probably unlikely that this boost could be easily achieved at 1/4 throttle from rest (the behaviour of the IACV is linked to pressure, throttle and vehicle speed). I'm guessing that the only reason the VSV behaves like this is for 'safety' reasons (protection against boost spikes, backfires up the inlet tract, etc.). Awaiting superior technical knowledge ... I doubt it - no real support outside Japan and it's been superseded by a later model ... I think you are right! I did drive a UK 6-speed before. I'm really impressed with the auto. gearbox but I still miss the manual sometimes. I guess the Tiptronic is a happy medium but I wish it had a few more gears in there!

Thanks for that Chris. The Informeter uses the OBDII port so is not directly connected to the TPS; it gets all its info. from the ECU. I wonder why the IACV behaves like this? I would have thought that opening the IACV would allow some of the boost created by the first turbo to run backwards through the second turbo, i.e. boost would build more slowly if you prod the throttle rather than if progressively opening the throttle. Maybe it's an attempt to keep the power delivery smooth? It would appear that my car is operating normally (I think the power delivery vagueness is just me still coming to terms with the 4-speed auto.) but I still don't understand those TPS readings ...

To avoid confusion, by TPS I mean Throttle Position Sensor and IACV refers to the Intake/Inlet Air Control Valve. I know that there have been a few reported cases of problems with the TPS on the VVTi but, touch wood, I have never experienced any of these problems (mine's a tiptronic, in case that makes a difference). However, throttle response does appear to be a bit 'vague' at times. A couple of things I've noticed that I would appreciate comments/feedback on: with everything switched on, bonnet/hood open but engine not running, the TPS is very noisy/whiney and I don't just mean when opening/closing the throttle via the cable; it does this even at rest. I assume there's some kind of stepper motor involved but I'm pretty sure it shouldn't be making this kind of noise. I have a Greddy Informeter fitted and one of the things that it can display is % throttle opening. This shows some rather bizarre readings! If the throttle is closed it shows about 20%; if opened slowly and progressively, the % rises steadily up to 100% (105% sometimes?!); if opened very quickly, the % jumps up to say 60% and then doesn't move even if making slight adjustments to the throttle opening. I'm guessing these readings are because the VVTi TPS is measuring rate of change of throttle opening, rather than actual throttle opening (the ATP does this?). Even so I don't understand these readings at all. Whilst conducting these tests, I noticed a loudish clicking from the back of the engine. I narrowed this down to the IACV VSV and, if I disconnect it, the clicking stops. Now, I've checked the IACV VSV using a multimeter and it appears to be fault free. However, what I've discovered is, if you open the throttle fairly quickly, the IACV is opened at about 1/4 throttle and closed at about 1/2 throttle (remember all these tests were conducted whilst the vehicle was stationary, engine off); if the throttle is opened slowly the IACV remains closed. More accurately, the VSV is actauted (the clicking) - I never actually saw the IACV move which I guess means there is nothing in my pressure tank (is that right?) Thanks for any enlightenment!

This version doesn't - it only shows a count of how many error codes are stored (so zero is the number you want to see). The later version - Informeter Touch - is meant to show the actual codes as is the Blitz RVit. I have found that the built in boost gauge reading is not particularly useful - the scale is hKpa and reads -0.33 (on my car) when I would expect it to be zero (engine not running). The O2 volt reading might be useful - at idle, I think it should oscillate around 0.45V. Mine does but the range of readings goes from 0.02 to 0.79. This wide range might indicate that the O2 sensor is slow to react to changes and I might need a new one ...