Bob

There's plenty of cheap disks knocking about on eay at the moment - it's not really advisable to swap to used discs, certainly not without changing pads as well.

Chris Wilson can get hold of rear wheel bearings - they're not Toyota afaik, but they're cheaper than anyone else.

Mate, if it's printed on it's NOT real carbon fibre!

Consider a direct swap for a bog-standard TT with a shagged intercooler?

Thought I'd post this here as there's a lot of people on here that know a fair amount about turbo'd engines! My father-in-law has a 2.3 turbo but has been having problems when under boost. It only happens occasionally and sometimes clears up, sometimes doesn't. It sometimes gets cured when restarting the engine, sometimes doesn't. Basically, he's getting engine 'flutter' when the car should be boosting. We originally thought maybe ignition issues, but a virtually new ignition system has proved fruitless. It's as if the turbo is cutting in and out then completely out. A hefty spray of WD40 around the ECU wiring loom seemed to have helped it, but then it came back the same as before. One mechanic believes that the wiring loom may be 'cracked'. All hoses have been checked and there seem to be no leaks or cracks. The next attempt is to replace the fuel filter (only £45) but I doubt that it's fuel related - I owuld have imagined the car would be running higher temperatures / coolant temps if it was leaning out that much under boost? I'm gonna have a poke around when it stops raining and when I'm sober (visiting the in-laws in Antrim this weekend. 'When in Rome . . .' and all that ), if the system is anything like the soop's I would be suspecting dodgy control valve thingummys. If anyone can shed some light it'd be much sppreciated.

Yeah, tiny little bulbs - not been able to find any to buy on t'interweb. I gave up and ended up soldering in a white LED with a resistor

I won't

Cheers Lee, you're a gent!

It measures at *roughly* 9mm. I took some crappy phone pics of the hole, and an exert from the manual. It seems that they're not a part that Greddy supply on their own; I've been in contact with Mohd Parts in the US and they suggest going to a hardware store - damned if I've ever seen anything like these in a UK hardware store though!

I'd give Chris Wilson a bell and see if he's encountered something like this before. He knows the odd bits and bobs about brakes, does Chris

Does anyone know where I can get some of the screw-in outlets for the Greddy Profec boost valve? They're 6mm diameter outlets, used on the E01 and B spec 2 boost controller solenoids. I think the thread is about 10mm but may be an imperial / American size.

Wow! A bargain there for someone! The carbing should theoretically be more effective than your Tein one though, the welds add more lateral strengthening (or summat like that!)

It's dead easy to take the whole unit out, then you can open it up and make sure there's no debris inside. Took me about 20 minutes to do mine, most of which was spent looking for the panel clips I'd dropped!

Remember to turn off traction control though - or it could be very embarassing!

Handy tip for replacing it - when i did mine, I used one of those jump-starting kits and a couple of bits of wire to apply a 12v feed to the motor while it was off the car - depending which pin you treat as earth, the motor will either expell or retract the aerial.bThat way you can have everything sorted and checked ready for refitting

My intercooler's on it's last legs, with most of the fins missing. My car has never pinked. I did have issues with hesitancy on full boost (2nd turbo) but replacing the coil packs solved that :edit: If I actually HAD any money, I'd put it on being either ECU-reset-solveable or plugs (can you tell I'm not doing much work today )

Well my stock TT runs fine on the occasional half-tank of 95 RON so I sincerely doubt it's the fuel, especially if you've recently filled it with fresh Optimax. Have you reset the ECU? Just wondering if it's may still be expecting Japanese 100 RON and needs to re-learn for our cheapo stuff. How about plugs? Couldn't the wrong grade cause pre-ignition?

Did you record what the odo said (mileage) when you dropped it off?

As far as I understand it, the engine only produces power in the form of torque (turning force). BHP is a function of rpm and torque. I think more torque = better drivability. Tractors and diesels don't rev very high and so the bhp is low - imagine a Supra that only revved to 2.5k!

If I hadn't bought an old shitter as a runabout already I would have definitely had this

Yep, courtesy of Chris Wilson Actually, if I'm installing the 2nd decat at the same time, I'll need 2 won't I?

Cheers lads. I've got Betty the breaker bar on standby as well, just in case

Sorry Tricky, my mistake - the stuff I've got is 31mm OD (about 16mm ID)

Cool, now I know what I could do with my boring grey one I've stripped out!

As one can use in such context as "That fat bird last night had a minge like a badly packed kebab". One could also use the phrase "Butcher's dustbin". Particularly saggy breasts may be commonly reffered to as "Spaniels' ears"