Project Supracharger

Analogues are easier to monitor than digidoolallitals and the grouping will help too.

The stepper motor gauges have warning lights if anything goes beyond the norms and the ECU will know what the AEM's are reading.

After the conversion proves it can be trusted they will become mostly functional ornaments.

I have fitted the battery into the divot, wired it through a 150amp mega fuse and an isolator switch which will make further electrical jobs simpler and the OE polystyrene blank has been remodelled to cover .

Including the battery, wire, mini bobbin, mega-fuse and solar panel, all done for less than £200.

The water/meth tank is built up with level sensor, fitted and plumbed.

this is coming on well must be soon to drop that engine in when do you think? what else do you have to do, im getting excited

this is coming on well must be soon to drop that engine in when do you think? what else do you have to do, im getting excited

You're getting excited because you're the only member to have seen it in the 'flesh'.

I won't be changing the engine, just transplanting the conversion from the jig engine onto the car engine.

Fine weather and workshop access permitting, I keep tinkering away at it and the hit-list is getting shorter, even though every job done contrives to create a few more.

I will soon need to decide on a date for the engine tuner and rolling road.

Today I final-fitted the components in the 'boot', a miles odo and the LED's into the dash ready for the transmission display.

Here's an updated Supercharger Day hit-list.

8. Fit and plumb the HHO generators and pump. (Need a dryer tank, some silicone hose, clips and hose connectors)

7. Sort out the electrickery for; Battery relocation, solar panel charger, HHO system, water/meth injection, EGT and boost data logging looms, charge-cooler pump and the transmission display.

6. Find some 2mm aluminium sheet and rubber door seals then fabricate a cold-air filter box.

5. Get and fit Adams' T.T. throttle and cruise cables. (Maybe soon I hope?)

3. Bulge the bonnet? (Dreading this job)

2. Find an AEM or GReddy (1/8" NPT) 3 bar MAP sensor. (Hoping a used one will turn up)

1. Buy 10-50W engine oil, water-wetter, methanol, distilled water and uprated rad cap. (No rush for these)

Then I can fit the supercharger conversion.

Today I went Supra shopping.

At the scrapyard I found;

A piece of aluminium sheet and a rear door trim off a people carrier of some sort, to make the cold-air box.

A Bosch fuel injector pig-tail from a 'didn't look'? for the charge-cooler water-pump connection.

And column-loom male and female connectors cut from a Celica, to re-pin and use to upgrade the Suprastick installation to 'plug&play', whilst integrating the Hecklertronics into the Toyota and Suprastick ECU looms.

Then a good hunt around Kerons' Suprabilia turned up another host of treasures;

A n/s boot foam, a carpet without a hole in it and even a few screws and clips, now I can tidy up the trim in the 'boot'.

A U.K. spec D.D. radio C/D to complete the dash build, when the instruments and Hecklertronic gear-lights looms go in.

And a rear light fault activation ecu to get the dash warning light working.

The jobs continue to create more jobs.

The faulty bulb warning light ECU is changed and not only has this fixed it's warning light on the dash, it has magically mended the battery warning light too.

The boot foam has been sculpted around it's new friends and the carpet without a hole in it, has now got one in another place.

Now I have somewhere convenient to hang an air freshener.

It's beginning to look less like a Supra pick-up for tomorrows Northants maxi eat mini meet.

with running all the electrics in the car

guages ,HHO and water meth, ect is the altenator going to be okey?

i have heard that the HHO can cause a large drain on the altenator and cancel out its benifits but there is only one way to find out will be nice to have a true answer with hopfully a dyno with it on and with it off

The alternator is an Eagle Electric 200amp, so that should be the least of my worries.

My only concerns are for the belt and power steering pulley, yet plan to upgrade these before it goes on.

hey man a while ago I posted a pic of the supra with a custom bonnet scoop, and thanks to another member on here i have a link for you to check out

-http://www.speedforsale.com/viewcar.php?vid=248&specificmakemodel=Toyota

enjoy!

Thank you

That is definitely similar to my intent, a wider and lower version of that would cover all and look the dogs danglies, we shall soon see if I am up to it.

The original battery is out, the conversion wiring complete and the little Odyssey 30 cranks the engine over a treat.

To prevent constant drain from the alarm pulling the voltage down, I have mounted a solar panel on aluminium brackets inside the rear hatch with the charge indicator LED fitted to be seen in the rear view mirror.

The amount of wires accumulating in the passenger footwell was becoming OMG!

So I have had a join the dots session before it grows into a nightmare.

I have relocated the Suprastick and made it plug&play, wired in Hecklers light display and made that plug&play too.

The gauges are now in their final homes and will wire them in next session.

49 wires have been spliced between the ECU looms, but there is still a birds nest to go and a lot more to add yet.

After today's tinkering, I took a video of the Maiden Voyage of Hecklers gear display lights in action, and I am having a go at my first video upload.

These are not full-blast runs, I am demonstrating the operation of the transmission and the display showing Suprastick control of the T.T. A343E that I have Hybridised with N/A A340E hydraulics.

The car is fitted with a T.T. auto 3.769 Torsen diff and 18x10 wheels on 275 40 tyres, which make the ratios long & leggy in readiness for the supercharger conversion and is geared for a theoretical top speed of 202mph @ 6,800rpm.

The first clip is on the farm road with Suprastick in auto mode - map 2 (sport patterns) at about 3/4ish throttle, which can be seen from the rpm of the gear changes.

At WOT, map 2 changes up at 6,799rpm every single time.

The second video was taken on route home where I found one opportunity to record the Suprastick operating in manualised mode, I am making these gear changes using the tiptronic steering wheel buttons.

Running out of road in the first clip, and running out of responsible space for the second, whilst holding the camera in my left hand.

Manu indicates Manualised Mode - O/D OFF indicates map 2 - sport patterns for Auto Mode and also engine ECU sport setting, in readiness for the AEM 30-1100.

LED's; Torque Converter Lock-up - 1st - 2nd - 3rd - O/D

The Suprastick has complete programmable control of the shift patterns, speed of gear changes and torque converter lock-up, with slip control in manualised mode using 'hold' changes.

got thats allot of wires!

what are the little LED's for under the Rev counter

EDIT- seen info added above vids!

what are the little LED's for under the Rev counter

what are the little LED's for under the Rev counter

 

EDIT- seen info added above vids!

It was posted beneath the pic in the previous post.

I have moved the info down a post and expanded it to avoid any further bamboozlement.

EDITED: To add Blonde as admitted.

The info was posted beneath the pic in the previous post, I have just moved it down a post to avoid any further bamboozlement.

blonde moment

Liking the Suprastick stuff, very cool

got thats allot of wires!

They're all gone now.

The gauges are all wired and working, even though the boost and water/meth flow have nothing to talk about yet. :taped:

I am pleased to have these out of the equation, because there remains the wiring for the HHO and water/meth systems, charge-cooler pump, ECU loom modifications and the data logging connections to work my way through.

Water/meth injection and charge-cooler pump wiring is off the list.

Here are a couple of snaps that show some recent tinkering.

I have returned the N/A expansion tank to its original location, where more by luck than judgement, it just goes in.

The Stant 1.3 bar rad cap fits the ASI rad without issues and with the OE battery out of the equation, there is now space for the HHO generators and pump.

I have discovered that my new laptop has Paint.

So have cobbled together a couple of bonnet options to ponder.

Top one looks very stylish, could catch on Bottom one is too narrow, or something though, IMHO. Would like to see top one a bit wider still. Style is not my forte though

I think it would need to be a little wider to clear all.

I need to mark out the spare bonnet to see how wide it needs to be, because to go too wide with the scoop loses the lines, whereas a cowl covers all without requiring such a wide vent.

I have hewn a chunk of 10mm mild steel into a base-plate for the belt idler pulley bracket and secured it with longer bolts over the OE tensioner on the jig engine.