Want to go single.

[DaveR]

Well I shaved my balls the other night. It's been a couple of months since I did it last. They feel great now. Really happy with them.

 

Good to know! Brazilian or the full Hollywood?

 

 

To OP:

A single turbo conversion is ace and I for one am certainly glad I've done it, but it's a much more visceral and to be honest less user-friendly experience than driving a BPU TT. I have the luxury now of living inside the same wire where I work, so my car gets used exclusively for weekend blasts (and track days come the summer - VERY excited about that! ), not for commuting or doing the weekly shop, etc. If I had to try to use it every day now, I think the experience may start to grate somewhat...

 

My recommendation to anyone now would be that, if you want a reliable, user-friendly but still fast and fun daily driver, stick to a BPU TT. If you want something that's more of a thrill to be used simply for pleasure, go single!

[hodge]

Hollywood baby yeahhhhh

[DaveR]

Hollywood baby yeahhhhh

 

[gavin.starr]

I think for the time being im going to fix what i have and get a good running BPU supra allthough the saving has started for the single, I just want her back on the road again for summer loving (if it doesnt rain all year again).

 

Its already got the BPU kit on but what benefit would cams and a ported head make if any?

 

Gav

[JamieP]

Mild cams wont hurt, id go with SRD stage 1 or jun 256's

 

Flow work would be a waste of time imo.

[gavin.starr]

Right guys decided to bite the bullet.

 

Ive got some of my money together now.

 

I just wondered what peoples recomendations for kits/turbos are. Im hoping to achieve a bench mark figure of 550-600hp I have already sourced my engine from a member on here.

 

Like I said im kind of new to all this so I will somewhat need to be spoon fed along the way.

 

if any one can shed some light what parts are best and where to source them from. I have seen a few kits for sale on here but think they may bee a bit large for my needs but you never know.

 

Any help would be appreciated just need a point in the right direction.

 

Thanks

 

Gav

[Ian C]

Mild cams wont hurt, id go with SRD stage 1 or jun 256's

 

Flow work would be a waste of time imo.

 

256 or 264 or a staggered combo is highly recommended as it gives you strong power to the rev limit. Stock cams choke up noticeably above 5500rpm. Adjustable cam gears would be a nice addition as well because you can get a smooth idle back with them.

[johnny g]

Right guys decided to bite the bullet.

 

Ive got some of my money together now.

 

I just wondered what peoples recomendations for kits/turbos are. Im hoping to achieve a bench mark figure of 550-600hp I have already sourced my engine from a member on here.

 

Like I said im kind of new to all this so I will somewhat need to be spoon fed along the way.

 

if any one can shed some light what parts are best and where to source them from. I have seen a few kits for sale on here but think they may bee a bit large for my needs but you never know.

 

Any help would be appreciated just need a point in the right direction.

 

Thanks

 

Gav

 

First piece of advice is to match your injectors and cams to the turbos.

Don't get massive injectors, you won't need them. 800cc should be enough for your target, if ASNU do them in that size, get them (I think they do all sizes in 50cc increments). SRD Stage 1 cams and a GTX35R turbo would be perfect for 550-600 and will spool great, IMO.

[dandan]

I cleared 600hp and managed 590lb.ft of torque on stock J spec cams at 1.7bar on SRR with a cast manifold and older tech T67DBB so you definitely don't need "cams" to hit your 550-600hp. Mine idles and drives as smooth as a BPU supra and the cams have a lot do to with that.

[gavin.starr]

Are you still running stock cams then

[dandan]

Yep sure am. I haven't read your whole thread but if you are doing this as a road car I would consider sticking with stock cams.

[gavin.starr]

Cool ill bear that in mind

[Chris Bailey]

My dad also runs stock cams on his HKS TO4Z Supra. It made 607bhp and 560lbft at 1.6 bar at SRR earlier this year.

[TBDevelopments]

whats peoples opinions on the cast manifold option turbo kits for the 500-550 range. seems to be a good option. alot more reliable than tubular, keeps more heat in the gases for faster spool. and the sellers (i know take as a pinch of salt) claim more torque from those units.

[marc_p]

whats peoples opinions on the cast manifold option turbo kits for the 500-550 range. seems to be a good option. alot more reliable than tubular, keeps more heat in the gases for faster spool. and the sellers (i know take as a pinch of salt) claim more torque from those units.

 

Pro cast:

 

-Cast is normally cheaper.

 

-More reliable as less likely to crack.

 

-Usually spools a couple of hundred revs lower.

 

Con cast:

 

- Not equal flow.

 

- Flow is more restrictive, so if you want big bhp, it would need to be tubular.

 

- Worse for heatsoak as the turbo is cramped against the manifold and block.

 

- Doesn't give the nice sound of a tubular.

 

HTH

[TBDevelopments]

to a point normally the difference between street driven cars and track based cars and the cast gives a much better result. I find them so much more reliable. Plus if you ceramic coat the manifolds and exhaust components which I would do on a supra set-up anyway this removes the heat soaking problem.

 

Just gives that reliable, get in and have fun over issues with cracking, leaking gaskets and other things that just get annoying after you've fixed them countless times and always wandering, if that little sound that crack in the collector again lol

 

Equal flow is over rated on a street car anyway so don't have to worry to much. Yes there are certainly gains to be had but over the reliability factor I'd rather take that, as ever tubular manifold I've ever used at some point in its lifetime has cracked. Just thermal dynamics of stainless I'm afraid. Supra will help because of the length of it and the thermal load and expansion is spread across a greater surface but on a 4 cylinder set-up, they are just terrible, always falling apart.

 

But I do love that single turbo sound on a supra. Beautiful

 

Anyway used one of the cast manifold based kits and can comment on the exhaust tone compared to BPU?

Edited June 13, 2013 by Gaz6002
Cutting out the things Tim has been told repeatedly aren't cool. (see edit history)

[marc_p]

to a point normally the difference between street driven cars and track based cars and the cast gives a much better result. I find them so much more reliable. Plus if you ceramic coat the manifolds and exhaust components which I would do on a supra set-up anyway this removes the heat soaking problem.

 

Just gives that reliable, get in and have fun over issues with cracking, leaking gaskets and other things that just get annoying after you've fixed them countless times and always wandering, if that little sound that crack in the collector again lol

 

Equal flow is over rated on a street car anyway so don't have to worry to much. Yes there are certainly gains to be had but over the reliability factor I'd rather take that, as ever tubular manifold I've ever used at some point in its lifetime has cracked. Just thermal dynamics of stainless I'm afraid. Supra will help because of the length of it and the thermal load and expansion is spread across a greater surface but on a 4 cylinder set-up, they are just terrible, always falling apart.

 

But I do love that single turbo sound on a supra. Beautiful

 

Anyway used one of the cast manifold based kits and can comment on the exhaust tone compared to BPU?

 

I agree, for a quick spooling street set-up, cast is the way, on mine I used a Whifbitz twin wastegate tubular, mainly down to two reasons, firstly, once I have a built block I'd like to be edging myself up to or past 850-900hp, secondly, they have a fairly decent anti-crack warranty on them.

[Wez]

Yep sure am. I haven't read your whole thread but if you are doing this as a road car I would consider sticking with stock cams.

 

 

Dont get me wrong, I gained a nice 60hp up top but the whole curve shifted to the right by approx 500rpm or more when switching to HKS264/264. Depends what your after really.

[gavin.starr]

Trying to keep things to a somewhat budget, would a piggy back ecu be acceptable for this or should i just feck it and go stand alone?

[marc_p]

Trying to keep things to a somewhat budget, would a piggy back ecu be acceptable for this or should i just feck it and go stand alone?

 

Depends what set-up you are wanting to run, if you want a small and basic single set-up for around 500hp, I can't see an issue using a piggy back, people have used them before and been issue free. If you are wanting to go nearer to something like the 750hp mark where a lot of the parts are getting a serious overhaul(i.e. Fueling, timing, etc) and you need more control of the map, then I'd be looking at a standalone system.

[gavin.starr]

Ah right ok, Im only looking to be around 550 ish Maybe a touch more, So I suppose thats one option I could look into.

[Luxluc]

I would try to get a second hand stand alone ECU if I were you. You can find nice AEM for under £750.

[TBDevelopments]

sounds like you after the same setup i am going for. I went with a power fc for my setup. i use them on all my cars and find they give very good drivability

 

Tim

[gavin.starr]

Right circumstances have now changed. Which means that i will no longer be able to continue with going down the single route house repairs and other items that need to be sorted have taken priority unfortunatley.

 

My question now is, I have a built engine purchased from Michel which is all lightned and ballanced, Michel mentioned that the standard ecu wouldnt be able to keep up with the ignition and fuel timing due to the fact that the engine will rev quicker and therefore the ecu will struggle to keep up with the timing.

 

I already have the mines ecu fitted and wondered if this would be sufficient to run the timing more effectivley, or would i still need to purchace a Piggy back ecu to run it, and if I do would the standard ecu need to be used or can i piggy back from the mines.

 

My other question is.

 

I already have a set of hybrids on the supra which i intend on using again instead of going single, But im after upping the boost from what i was using (0.7 Bar) up to around the 1.2 Bar region. If i were to do this would I need to change the standard 440cc injectors for some larger cc, I.e 550cc from the UK spec and if so what other mods do i need to run them, as far as im aware they are not just a straight forward drop in for the J-Spec.

 

I want to do things right the first time so that I dont have to pull it all apart again later on down the line, because I didnt do it propperly first time around.

 

Just trying to run budgets through my head and see what I can eliminate from my list of parts required. Any help would be great as the last thing I want to do is damage the engine due to poor fuel and ignition timing issues.

 

 

Gav

[gavin.starr]

Any one able to shed some light?