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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

Spend thousands on a big single, to become slower than a T.T.


David P
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Both 'proof' and 'evidence' are in the Clubs official Supra drag times, and it is informative to learn why there happens to be many TT's that are recorded to be faster than many singles.

 

Very poor post.

 

I know you only have 6 fingers on each hand, but count how many sub 13sec singles there are and how many sub 13sec BPU cars there are...

 

Then explain how you can define 'many TTs' to be faster than 'many singles'? There are 8 singles faster than the fastest BPU so surely the single car is quicker?

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Small and wide is best imo, no rubber band tyres.

 

I've got these 19s for cruising about but when the power comes going to be looking at some

18's. My car will be too loud for the strip so no point getting any drag wheels for me.you drag wheels are 15's aren't they? How big is the rubber on them? And why do people lower tyre pressures for dragging?

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Sounds like it must have been a decent spec, any info :)

 

Yeah 2.5ltr fully forged block

ported and polished heads

oversize valves and Sti cams

740cc injectors

Solaris ecu (before they were popular here!)

Gt35 on rotated manifold

Dog box with HKS twin plate

Stripped out and lots of carbon

Lots of aggressive anti-lag and lc with 4300rpm launch

 

Was an animal but I've moved on now ;)

Edited by davej705 (see edit history)
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A lot is down to internal parts and running as far inside the envelope as your budget and desired longevity allow. I can cite my RB26 engine as an example. Built from ALL new parts including all castings. Steel Farndon crank, steel Tomei rods, cooling channel in the crown Tomei forged pistons with Ti coated rings properly gapped, 280 degree cams with a fair amount of lift (10.80 mm), 780 CC injectors, modded ignition system to get rid of the scatter prone optical crank position sensor, trick Tomei olil pump, deep baffled sump, 38 row t/statically controlled oil cooler. big rad, direct drive high volume engine driven fan. On ported stock cast turbo manifolds running Garret 2860 -10 turbos. Motec M800 with LOTS of dyno and track mapping. A really high spec engine, screwed together with love. How much boost do I run? 1.3 bar. How much power? About 550 to 560 BHP. It's done maybe 10 track days since built, and virtually zero road miles, another 4 track days and it will be due a refresh, probably rings, valve lap, valve springs, rod bolts and a full crack test. So not a lot of boost, and not a lot of power compared to some figures bandied about for similar spec engines. I have the realisation that even starting with all new bits, track time takes its toll, and a rigorous strip, check and rebuild regime with the required replacement of "lifed" bits is vital. Take an 80,000 miler 2JZ, nail a single on at and some cams and expect a reliable 600 HP? I don't think so. Sorry. Once you get into more than say a 20% power hike the base engine needs to be as good as you can get it, and even more power will need plenty of bespoke bits to keep reliability, if it's used hard and often. What may just survive a few 1/4 mile runs with a cool down period between may well go pop after two laps of a race circuit. The thermal stresses are continuous, rather than for a few seconds starting with an engine at normal temps, with an immediate cool off period after the run.

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I've got these 19s for cruising about but when the power comes going to be looking at some

18's. My car will be too loud for the strip so no point getting any drag wheels for me.you drag wheels are 15's aren't they? How big is the rubber on them? And why do people lower tyre pressures for dragging?

 

Ok, last post:D

 

You wont be to loud for the drag strip, there is no noise limits so thats that excuse gone;)

 

Ive not had a chance to use my 15's yet, i did my 10.5 on a set of volk 17's.

 

The 15's are 275/50/15.

 

image

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I've got these 19s for cruising about but when the power comes going to be looking at some

18's. My car will be too loud for the strip so no point getting any drag wheels for me.you drag wheels are 15's aren't they? How big is the rubber on them? And why do people lower tyre pressures for dragging?

 

Drag strips don't have noise limits. Or the ones I've been to haven't

 

Damn you Jamie :D

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Ok, last post:D

 

You wont be to loud for the drag strip, there is no noise limits so thats that excuse gone;)

 

Ive not had a chance to use my 15's yet, i did my 10.5 on a set of volk 17's.

 

The 15's are 275/50/15.

 

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c338/jamie450x/redlinemag017.jpg

 

Interesting to learn they are 275's, they look wider.

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And why do people lower tyre pressures for dragging?

 

Watch a Supra setup for drag racing off the line and you'll see the rear suspension and tyres compress to get as much traction as possible off the line. The suspension is softer/longer travel and the wheels are smaller with big side wall soft tyres, these help transfer the power to the track and maximise grip.

 

CXa9ggyHa10

 

dOLnSgN1tMM

Edited by Nic (see edit history)
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Watch a Supra setup for drag racing off the line and you'll see the rear suspension and tyres compress to get as much traction as possible off the line. The suspension is softer/longer travel and the wheels are smaller with big side wall soft tyres, these help transfer the power to the track and maximise traction

 

Yeah I see they way it squats then is just propelled forward.I have friends that drag yank cars so will ask them for some lessons.

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Yeah I see they way it squats then is just propelled forward.I have friends that drag yank cars so will ask them for some lessons.

 

Weight transfer doesn't just happen at the launch, you will have to learn to manage this process upto and including the 1st gear change at about the 60ft mark (presuming your running a manual box), by getting this right your launch times will lower meaning your overall times will drop.

You will need to aim for sub 1.8 sec 0-60ft's to start getting into the 11's without having a lot ofbig bhp to gain time at the top end of the track.

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My old supra was easily as quick down 1/4 mile as my do-luck T67 ever was. Its initial pickup and its overall grunt just pipped the T67. However that's not the whole story. Once rolling on WOT the T67 devastated the performance of my BPU supe. In traffic the response of the TT made it so much more useable power wise, again not the whole story because after the second or so difference it took to spool the bad boy it was like unleashing hell. It really is two different kettles of two different fish. For a 1/4 a BPU supe will handle all of the traction there is to have. That is why dude cracked into the 10's before his holiday with a car that was significantly lower powered than its competitors. An understanding of how to apply the available power to the floor is tantamount to a good 1/4 time.

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In traffic the response of the TT made it so much more useable power wise, again not the whole story because after the second or so difference it took to spool the bad boy it was like unleashing hell.

 

It also depends on the single turbo you're using. 99% my driving in HK was in traffic, there was was only around 3-400rpms difference between my BPU TT first turbo making positive boost and my GT35R making positive boost. Trundling along in traffic say at 2-3Krpm the GT35R had the same response as my TT but delivered hugely more power.

Edited by Nic (see edit history)
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