Project Supracharger

[David P]

Since my encounter with a monster drain hole, the car has been handling like a pig and cocking a front wheel when reversing on full lock.

 

It felt as if the rack was bent, yet I haven't been able to find any damage and there's no tyre edge feathering.

 

Today I'm up and about a bit, so went and pestered the friendly local tyre and geometry workshop.

 

The front tracking and camber was found to be exactly as previously set, yet the rears were both equally toeing in, just out of the; green for good enough for them scale on the readout.

 

The 40 profile front tyres had seen better days so had them changed for the Pilot Sport 45's I wanted to try and had the rear tweaked back as close as could be to stock settings.

 

The car drives much better with stock profile tyres on the 18's and these works have transformed the handling from task to pleasure.

 

However, the front tyres now catch the arch a little at full lock so the car now needs raising by 10mm front and rear and will then need another geometry reset.

 

Hey ho.

Edited March 15, 2013 by David P (see edit history)

[David P]

Two post lift, transmission jack and a new right arm for the tight ones and a camera-hackin'n'man too.

 

The 3.769 A02B is out, and the 4.083 A01B with a T.T. flange on is in.

 

And I'm even still alive too.

 

A feather-bed job, cheers James.

 

Edited March 18, 2013 by David P (see edit history)

[David P]

Another hakin snap showing mine with the larger front tyres, bashin's and Turtle's and his empty shell.

 

285 40 rear, 245 45 fronts, I didn't quite get away the fronts which needs a 10mm lift to clear on full lock, so will need to raise rears to match.

 

With stock profile side-wall tyres on the 18" wheels, the improvement of the ride is amazing, it even soaks up sleeping policemen.

 

 

Supercharged charge-cooled manualised-auto, stripped out N/A W58 and T.T. VVTI Tipronic, with James Single 6MT Pram-Top would make a full set

 

Edited March 18, 2013 by David P (see edit history)

[David P]

After much head scratching; I've decided to swap in a GTE U.K./Export spec inlet cam and run it @ -1°?

 

 

My reasoning is;

 

This will reduce the overlap by 1° without increasing lobe separation and give centrelines closest to a supercharger cam.

 

The resulting 2° less duration and lower lift should be more than compensated by the boost and from less of it lost.

 

This configuration also weighs towards a more dominant exhaust cam profile and is a smallest angle lobe separation configuration of the bunch.

 

 

 

 

All I need now is a cam.

 

I'm chasing a couple of shadows, yet still looking.

 

There must be a few of these gathering dust somewhere.

 

If you have one, please contact me.

 

Thank you.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Exhaust cam. (common)

 

Lobe separation 114° TDC

Exhaust Duration 236°

Exhaust Camshaft lift 8.4mm

Exhaust valve diameter 29mm

Exhaust Valve timing - Opening 52° BBDC

Exhaust Valve timing - Closing 4° ATDC

 

 

Inlet cam choices

 

GE 10:1

Lobe separation 114.5° TDC

Intake Duration 235°

Intake Camshaft lift 8.3mm

inlet valve diameter 33.5mm

Intake Valve timing - Opening 3° BTDC

Intake Valve timing - Closing 52° ABDC

 

 

J spec GTE 8.5:1

Lobe separation 113.5° TDC

Intake Duration 224°

Intake Camshaft lift 7.88mm

Inlet valve diameter 33.5mm

Intake Valve timing - Opening 3° BTDC

Intake Valve timing - Closing 41° ABDC

 

 

Export spec GTE 8.5:1

Lobe separation 113.5° TDC

Intake Duration 233°

Intake Camshaft lift 8.25mm

Inlet valve diameter 33.5mm

Intake Valve timing - Opening 3° BTDC

Intake Valve timing - Closing 50° ABDC

 

For reference;

 

1G-GZE 8:1 camshaft spec

 

Lobe separation 113° TDC

Exhaust Duration 240°

Exhaust Valve timing - Opening 53° BBDC

Exhaust Valve timing - Closing 7° ATDC

 

Lobe separation 112° TDC

Intake Duration 228°

Intake Valve timing - Opening 2° BTDC

Intake Valve timing - Closing 46° ABDC

Edited April 2, 2013 by David P (see edit history)

[David P]

My bad back wasn't so bad today, so I've added the Lexus flappy-paddle shifters into the equation.

 

Now fitted into the car, but it's too cold out there to solder the 3 wires into the loom.

 

 

Edited April 2, 2013 by David P (see edit history)

[Noz]

Wheel looks sweet.

 

Wilson has an inlet cam?

[David P]

I need to modify the column cowl to clear the switches, but it's not just cold out there, it's evil.

 

Have spoken with Chris, but he couldn't find the cam so I'm still hunting.

Edited March 26, 2013 by David P (see edit history)

[Morpheus]

David, I think you've single-handedly redefined the word, 'Hybrid'.

 

Soon your car will be featured in Wikipedia and every other reference publication under that word.

 

Is there anything you're not going to do to it?

 

By the way, get yourself down a bloody chiropractor like I told you a month ago!

[Pulley]

Always live reading your build

Get your back sorted mate, I know how painfull and annoying it can be (broke mine in two places)

Cold weather don't help

[David P]

Hybrid Met a Morpheus is almost complete.

 

Bad news: After 13 weeks of bad back-ery, on Saturday I had an MRI scan, but they scanned the wrong bit.

 

Good news: It seems to be mending it'self.

 

Changing the exhaust has upset the map and it's to go back on the dyno next week, so I may as well get a shorter belt and fit the 3.8" supercharger pulley I have.

 

This week I must complete the modifications to the exhaust, change the T.P.S, reprogram the Suprastick and AEM ECU's and would like to install the modified valve-body, fit a 2 Bar MAP sensor, complete the water/meth system and fit a U.K. spec inlet cam.

 

Yet even with a bettering back, fine weather, wind of chance and neither sensor nor cam are yet with me, tinkering with the paddles was a warm placebo for more important things to be done outside in the bitter cold.

 

The Sard exhaust is way too loud and low between 3-4k, so I'm incorporating a smaller 3" tail-pipe to raise the pitch and an additional resonator to lose a few dB.

 

Stainless steel ebay-snips; Nissan Skyline 3" resonated decat and Mitsubishi GTO 2.5" decat pipe with a designer label, that are to be (surprise surprise) Hybridised into a resonated Y section and the smart new tail.

 

Edited March 27, 2013 by David P (see edit history)

[Morpheus]

Bad-backery

 

What a cunning linguist!

[David P]

Always live reading your build

Get your back sorted mate, I know how painfull and annoying it can be (broke mine in two places)

Cold weather don't help

 

Cheers Pulley, shame you're not around the corner, you'd come in very handy at the mo.

 

I'm waiting for access to a cosy workshop with lift and can then get a few of those things off the list without having to grovel around outside on the ground.

 

A fair compromise with my back which allows some Supra things to get done.

[David P]

Bad-backery

 

What a cunning linguist!

 

Metamorphosis "Met a Morpheus is" was the one I thought you'd like best.

 

And you spelt it wrong, it's "bad back-ery".

Edited March 26, 2013 by David P (see edit history)

[Morpheus]

Metamorphosis "Met a Morpheus is" was the one I thought you'd like best.

 

It was cleverer but not as funny!

[David P]

It was cleverer but not as funny!

 

Aaaaah

 

I'll lower the Fog Index.

[David P]

Today was a good Friday, not only was it a not so bad back day, but also a surprise Workshop access day.

 

The 2.5" GTO mid-pipe has been spliced and jigged in situ and stainless-steel MIG tacked ready to be TIG welded.

 

I need this section welding before dressing to the 3" resonator pipe.

 

[David P]

A U.K. spec inlet cam has turned up, thank you Slutters.

 

I also have a 2 Bar MAP sensor to replace the present 3.5bar, which will be a better pressure match and more importantly, be compatible with the ERL water/meth injection ECU.

 

I now have and almost hold most of the components to move the power up a notch.

 

But that was the easy bit.

 

From now till 11th the equation is; bad backery + slow delivery / bad weathery + slow TIGgery.

 

Edited April 2, 2013 by David P (see edit history)

[David P]

The modified valve body, actuator shims, new filter and ATF are in.

 

It’s fun and games doing this job upside down in ATF rain.

 

Dismantling went well until fiddling to remove the line pressure cable and ……….. POING!

 

Springs, actuators and ball valves leaping out all over the place, most of the big bits went into the catch pan and were recovered with some wrist deep oily fishing, but a little spring from behind the check valve nearly beat me.

 

I’d given up hope and was going outside for a better phone signal to arrange another to arrive from my stash of Supra Treasures, yet then found it, where it had managed to go the 'wrong way' and almost made it out of the Workshop door.

 

After un-shuffling the collection of springs and things, reassembly was complicated by discovering that the line pressure cable ramp on the replacement unit had been assembled up-side-down ……… POING! again.

 

 

Had a fag break, then fixed and fitted it.

 

 

The Results:

 

It hasn’t lessened the P to D bump, but the P to R and pause before engaging D trick gives a nice slick engagement.

 

Gear changes are all a lot faster, 1st to 2nd time has been quartered, 2nd to 3rd and 3rd to 4th are instant.

 

Can’t try it in auto mode until I’ve sorted out some electrickery.

 

Haven’t yet monitored the line pressures.

 

It’s a far better drive and definitely a step in the right direction.

 

 

Sometime whenever, I’ll fit stronger springs to the 1st to 2nd actuator to see if I can get the changes as instant as the others.

 

 

(I didn’t have my camera with me and will add to the post some pics that were taken when they arrive.)

Edited April 8, 2013 by David P (see edit history)

[David P]

Found the timing spike at tickover Gremlin, which was also the Suprastick auto-mode Gremlin.

 

I changed the TPS and swapped in a 2 Bar MAP sensor then reset the AEM and left the laptop display on whilst refitting the throttle body and noticed the voltage fluctuating, so gave the connector a wiggle and voila.

 

[mellonman]

Found the timing spike at tickover Gremlin, which was also the Suprastick auto-mode Gremlin.

 

I changed the TPS and swapped in a 2 Bar MAP sensor then reset the AEM and left the laptop display on whilst refitting the throttle body and noticed the voltage fluctuating, so gave the connector a wiggle and voila.

 

http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/attachment.php?attachmentid=167169&d=1365518247

 

That would be your problem right there!

[David P]

It's an 18 years old plastic, designed to be fit and forgot component that's seen -20°C and/or +100° almost as many times as it's been on and offed during the build and it's time has arrived.

 

I attempted open heart connector pin surgery, but the yellow retaining clip was too brittle to be re-used.

 

I've had similar electrickonundrums during the build and pleased to kill two of these Gremlins with one stone.

 

There are electronundums yet, but with bad weather and bad back, things that are working haven't been the most important things to fix.

 

One warm sunny day when my back will let me play antipodean origamilectrickery in the footwells, I'll root out the others.

Edited April 9, 2013 by David P (see edit history)

[David P]

Re. post 1318

 

Pre POING! ATF raindrops

 

 

Incorrectly assembled ramp on new valve-body

 

Edited April 10, 2013 by David P (see edit history)

[Mike2JZ]

Just read through the entire thread, I've gotta say your attention to detail and the fact that you are doing something completely different to 99% of people is really commendable! Keep up the good work. Also really like your video revving, sounds mean!

[David P]

99.999999999999%.

 

Thank you for the encouragement.

 

The conversion has now been my daily drive for around 7 months and 8k smiles, with no problem other than the intermittent tickover timing-spike Gremlin,

now evicted.

 

I've noticed that after this use the belt has begun to feather on the front 2 ribs, which is the same place the first belt died before I had engineered more supercharger-pulley wrap into the equation.

 

I suspect the supercharger is mounted a gnats nodger out of true and will adjust the alignment before it's remapped into the 400 Club.

 

It sounds a treat when chavved whilst standing, but under boost it's way too low and loud for my liking.

 

Reducing the tailpipe size from 3.5" to 3" should raise the note a little and an additional resonator will remove a dB or 3 without reducing the efficiency of the system.

 

There's a selection of kept up-to-date vid-clips, pics and specs in 'my garage'.

Edited April 10, 2013 by David P (see edit history)

[David P]

I arranged a lift over to the Workshop and found my spare TPS connector block, it too had seen better days yet the yellow pin locking clip was O.K.

 

 

 

 

Using the best of the bits, a functioning connector is born again from the two dead ones.

 

 

 

 

Soldered it into the loom, put it all back together, reset the TPS values into AEM and went for a test drive.

 

Still no auto transmission mode, but the Suprastick hasn't yet been reprogrammed for the TPS changes or the changed diff ratio.

 

Get home, left it running and found that the intermittent timing spike at hot tickover, is still there.

 

I shouldn't have counted my Gremlins before they're catched.

Edited April 11, 2013 by David P (see edit history)