Scott Posted December 27, 2009 Share Posted December 27, 2009 thing is mate its really to late for me to change any thing now just have to keep revs down?! just putting a thicker cloud over this whole thing No point in worrying about it mate. Some people spend loads more than you only to have their engine turn to toast. Some people spend loads less than you and their engines last forever. It is all down to the sum of the components and the abuse given. Don't go over 7.5k RPM and I'm guessing you will be absolutely fine. Is Ryan doing your mapping? If not, make sure the person knows the ECU as that is far more important than anything else you have spent your dough on..... All in my opinion of course! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamieP Posted December 27, 2009 Share Posted December 27, 2009 Id go with what Dude says, stock bolts and dont go over 7200rpm, mine has been like that for a long time now and alls been good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted December 27, 2009 Share Posted December 27, 2009 My RPM limit is 8k. Only hit it twice in 2nd.... does that count Who drives to their rev limit? Surely the torque band for acceleration is a little lower? I can understand hitting the limiter on a top speed run.... with serious power.. but surely anything else is only slowing you down? Ahh wait, thinking while I'm typing here, I guess that depends on the cams? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamieP Posted December 27, 2009 Share Posted December 27, 2009 Who drives to their rev limit? When at 600-700bhp it can be hard to avoid in the lower gears as the rev counter spins round so fast.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted December 27, 2009 Share Posted December 27, 2009 When at 600-700bhp it can be hard to avoid in the lower gears as the rev counter spins round so fast.. Yeah I can understand that. It is especially dangerous considering it is because of a loss of traction and there will be next to no load on the engine causing even more problems. Would it be possible to have a higher rev limit in higher gears? Would probably help the rate of high rev engine failures. Afterall, no load revs is a massive engine killer. Oh yeah...... change gear faster Jamie, 9's is next Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SupraHuman Posted December 27, 2009 Share Posted December 27, 2009 Not talking about bolts dude were talking about revs and you would leave the stock bolts would you?? Of course they will have been checked to make sure they had not stretched too much would'nt they. Yes aftermarket may well fail but at much higher revs and power, how do youknow what his bolts will hold ? do you know what boost and rpm he is going to run, 264's will hapily rev to 8K do you think that would be ok on stock bolts and unbalanced bottom end??? Where did he say he'll raise the rev limiter? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b_have Posted December 27, 2009 Share Posted December 27, 2009 My RPM limit is 8k. Only hit it twice in 2nd.... does that count Who drives to their rev limit? Surely the torque band for acceleration is a little lower? I can understand hitting the limiter on a top speed run.... with serious power.. but surely anything else is only slowing you down? Ahh wait, thinking while I'm typing here, I guess that depends on the cams? 8K? How are you measuring that? My rev limit is 7500, yet the oem tach shows 8k when the datalog shows 7500. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamieP Posted December 27, 2009 Share Posted December 27, 2009 8K? How are you measuring that? My rev limit is 7500' date=' yet the oem tach shows 8k when the datalog shows 7500.[/quote'] You on stock short block mate? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted December 27, 2009 Share Posted December 27, 2009 8K? How are you measuring that? My rev limit is 7500' date=' yet the oem tach shows 8k when the datalog shows 7500.[/quote'] I'm not measuring it. I have a Mines ECU. Apparently some of them have the RPM raised to 8k. I can only assume mine is one of those as it goes right off the scale Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b_have Posted December 27, 2009 Share Posted December 27, 2009 You on stock short block mate? Stock bottom end with new oem rod bolts, reworked head with 264's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Bullitt Posted December 27, 2009 Share Posted December 27, 2009 Where did he say he'll raise the rev limiter? the problem comes when you rev it higher to take advantage of the cams/QUOTE] He's saying that there is no point in having the 264 cams on a stock limit, therefore the RPM will have to be raised to take advantage of the BHP they produce. If APR's haven't been fitted then raising the stock RPM on standard fittings becomes risky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dude Posted December 27, 2009 Share Posted December 27, 2009 (edited) i wouldn't worry about the bolts at the power your looking at some companies will insist you change everything possible for a couple of reasons 1. they make more money out of you 2. it can help cover any weakness in their engine building skills, the stronger it is the less chance of it going wrong of they do something not 100% correct if you had an unlimited budget which lets face it most of us dont then yes you would uprate everything for longevity of the engine but for most people this isnt an option and you have to compromise somewhere Sorry I just need to answer these points:taped: 1) How so, the bolts need undoing and doing up, doesn't matter which ones go in and trust me there is not a lot of profit in bolts 2) What a load of bollox!!!! Let me take your engine apart and put it together with billet main caps and all ARP or Carr bolts but with the wrong torque settings and bearing sizes/tolerance and we will see how long it lasts. 3) Unlimited budget!!!!!! Engine rebuild with old bolts no balance etc lets say £1800 now add ARP rod bolts £80 Head studs £120 and a full balance £300, thats £500 on top of the £1800, but it might stop you wasting the £1800. Hope that makes sense:innocent: Edited December 27, 2009 by dude (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L33 Posted December 27, 2009 Author Share Posted December 27, 2009 Im on my phone so cant keep up with these replys i will ask the garage whats fitted when there back in the new year. Im not planning to raise the rev limit. I have wiseco pistons fitted. About 15k has been spent on parts some where i have listed parts and prices but cant look for links while on my phone have bought a couple others bits since like another lsd as mine seized up and almost resulted in my car crashing on a test run! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L33 Posted December 27, 2009 Author Share Posted December 27, 2009 Now reading that might be worth looking into raising the rev limit. I know i have arp head studs, and i remember some thing being mentioned about balancing so should be done just not sure about con rod bolts. Kept standard con rods tho Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dude Posted December 27, 2009 Share Posted December 27, 2009 Wiseco, nice dude, were they the coated ones?? Either way Ilike wiseco pistons, not as light as CP but very nice quality, I've just fitted a set in what will be my spare race engine, along with Crower Pro rods and ARP 625++ bolts ACL race bearings and ARP main and head studs (L19) after balancing the rotating assembly. For what its worth and IMO unless you are going to run a LOT of Nitrous or loads of boost or high revs there is nothing wrong with the stock rods,pistons or crank, I have not seen many rods actually fail but I have seen MANY rod bolts fail, the main reason I try and get customers to change pistons is when they need a rebore and we can get a nice forged piston for roughly the same as a stock one, same with the rods, unless you are talking Crower or Carillo stick with the stock rods, the crank I would only change if I was going stroker which is why I have left the stock crank in my engine, but I will limit the revs to around 8500 whereas I will rev the 3.4 with the billet crank to 9500, again a really decnt coated bearing like ACL is only marginaly dearer than a normal one like Vanderval for example. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dude Posted December 27, 2009 Share Posted December 27, 2009 Now reading that might be worth looking into raising the rev limit. I know i have arp head studs, and i remember some thing being mentioned about balancing so should be done just not sure about con rod bolts. Kept standard con rods tho Nothing wrong with stock rods dude, see my last post. The advantage of changing rods pistons etc is the weight loss, my rods are 200g lighter per rod my shimless buckets are 40-50g lighter and my pistons are also lighter so not only does it rev quicker but I am putting less strain on everything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamieP Posted December 27, 2009 Share Posted December 27, 2009 Dude, can rod bolts be changed going via the sump with the engine in place or is it to much agro? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dude Posted December 27, 2009 Share Posted December 27, 2009 Dude, can rod bolts be changed going via the sump with the engine in place or is it to much agro? Did it once on my 68 camaro with a big block, what a pain but that was bearings as well. Yes J it could be done by dropping the front subframe and removing the sump but if I was doing it on my own car I think I would just pull the whole motor and put it on a stand and just remove the sump, it is so much easier and you can check everything better, +++ you may have to use an extension on your torque wrench to torque the bolts from underneath and you really should not do that if it can be avoided, I havent just paid almost £400 for a new Torque wrench (think about that next time you get a bill) to use it incorrectly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted December 27, 2009 Share Posted December 27, 2009 Did it once on my 68 camaro with a big block, what a pain but that was bearings as well. Yes J it could be done by dropping the front subframe and removing the sump but if I was doing it on my own car I think I would just pull the whole motor and put it on a stand and just remove the sump, it is so much easier and you can check everything better, +++ you may have to use an extension on your torque wrench to torque the bolts from underneath and you really should not do that if it can be avoided, I havent just paid almost £400 for a new Torque wrench (think about that next time you get a bill) to use it incorrectly. Never thought about it that way, the engine doesn't really need to be pulled apart then? Just a bit of sealant to get the sump back on and the job is a good-un? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L33 Posted December 27, 2009 Author Share Posted December 27, 2009 not sure if there coated but were very good value from the states. i had to get the head bored that's why i went forged pistons! even when i was asking on here about them i was told not to bother! thanks for the help dude you sound very in the no Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dude Posted December 27, 2009 Share Posted December 27, 2009 Never thought about it that way, the engine doesn't really need to be pulled apart then? Just a bit of sealant to get the sump back on and the job is a good-un? Pretty much, pull the whole motor with the loom attached, you can even disconnect the aircon pump and leave that in the car, plonk it on a stand, spin it over and whip the sump off. Sounds easy when you say it quick!!! But if you can do this yourself there is very little outlay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dude Posted December 27, 2009 Share Posted December 27, 2009 not sure if there coated but were very good value from the states. i had to get the head bored that's why i went forged pistons! even when i was asking on here about them i was told not to bother! thanks for the help dude you sound very in the no I hope you mean the block dude!!!!!! I bet the wiseco's worked out the same money as stock pistons. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L33 Posted December 27, 2009 Author Share Posted December 27, 2009 yea sorry i ment block! it came to about 500 quid for a set of wiseco pistons will just be glad to get it back on the road and drive it. ive not built it for drag or track just for me really and bhp braggin rights lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted December 27, 2009 Share Posted December 27, 2009 Remember and put up a post once finished, for the newbies, about how you would have done it all differently if you could again Sell TT & buy ready made single FWIW I'm thinking about going single in the future. Won't be undertaking that sort of a project though. Full engine diagnostic.... if its not up to the task .... it's staying TT. If it is up to it, small single bolted on with some bits and bobs... jobs a good un. Granted I'll be about 8-10k lighter in the pocket but it definitely won't cost me a rebuild. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L33 Posted December 27, 2009 Author Share Posted December 27, 2009 thing is i blew my engine up so i had to start from scratch so wasnt that simple for me thats why its a bit more expensive but then i just got carried away and yea i will try and start some sort of thread, the garage said they have taken a few pics of the build to put on here Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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