Matt Harwood

LOL, you great tart!

With all those banjo bolts with tiny holes, I'd guess it must be a restriction... Neddless to say, mines out. Make sure you're feeling strong though, I've removed a couple now, and the bolts are bloody tight!

IMHO, having a Tracker isn't necessarily about insurance discounts. Sure a discount is nice, but that's not really what they're made for. If my car gets stolen, I'd be lucky to get paid out £10k, yet it probably stands me in three times that. I have a Tracker fitted because I want to get my car back as soon as possible. Even if it is in bits. It would probably still be worth more than what the insurance would pay out.

I drive by sonar! 'Cause my eyesight is shite! I don't brake late, I just brake 'in time' Good to meet you last night Wkd, eventually! Glad you liked it! Graham, the offer still stands, just let me know when

And that's the way it should be. Sadly, more and more retailers are losing interest in really taking the time to give good advice, as more and more people take their advice and then buy from Ebay or similar. It'll be interesting to see how high street retail and the quality of advice changes over the next ten years.

Are you changing injectors, or having a turbo upgrade?

Assuming your new mods give you a reasonable upgrade, I'll guess at about 797 RHHP. If it's a genuine 800ish horsepower, I'll guess your terminal speed should be about 142mph. Using those drag radials, assuming you can get some heat into them first, I'd guess that you'll be in the low 11's... I'll go for 11.25

I've fitted an ignitor pack from a JDM car to an early UK car before, and it worked straight away, so that rules the ignitor pack out...

They are definitely 12v pull down. I also tried 5v as that's what's recommended on Mohds site for the US spec, but that didn't work either.

Sorry-just re-read Charlotte's post. We tried the indemnity route but our buyers mortgage company wouldn't allow it Chantelle

Rosie We had huge problems selling the house before last. The problem came down to one window that we had installed and they wanted a guarantee for it but we had a friend who works fitting double glazing and had fitted it as a private job cheaper. It held us up by 6 weeks and we had our buyers threatening to pull out etc. They told the solicitor they didn't care about it but she said she was legally-bound to ensure it was in place and that our buyers mortgage wouldn't be released until it was. The only way we got around it was to say that it was new to our house but it was a second hand window that had previously been in someone else's house- figure that one out! Some areas will require planning permission for double glazing (my sister-in-law lives in a conservation area and she's not allowed it) and some areas brought in rules about building regs but you can apply for that in retrospect. The only thing you may have a problem with is obtaining a guarantee for the fitting-obviously someone is effectively saying that for next ten years they will rectify any faults on a window they didn't fit or supply. First stop -check with your local council as to planning/building regs for your area. Chantelle

I've tried both an EM Blue, and an Ultimate on two different UK cars and both cars refused to fire and showed a fault code 14. Ignitor. The only thing both cars had in common was that they were both early UK cars. Not that I can see that would make any difference. But if anyone figures it out, let me know what I did wrong

Yep, but only about 30 seconds further up the road. Directions below \/

Thats the main reason I didn't bother having a shop/showroom when we relocated workshops. I agree with Chris though. If it's done publicly, It's not so bad...

Good to see you've got so far with this. Well done. I'm not sure if you know or not, but if the temp is turned down to the lowest point, the climate system will automatically switch to recirculate during the day. (At night it shouldn't) So the only problem there that I can see is the fan speed. Hopefully you'll figure it out soon.

I've know new UK brakes to 'click' when changing direction, but not really clunk???

Best to ring first, yes please. As for the hourly rate, hmmm I think you misplaced the decimal point... By how many spaces though...

I doubt it's anything to do with the alarm. The alarm simply sends out 1/2 second negative pulses to the CDL unit. It's most likely a door motor/switch problem.

Booking at the moment for roughly a week or so in advance. Although if you're leaving it with me, it's not so much of an issue, you can drop it off anytime.

DON'T cut any wires! Get yourself a PC2-17-4 from Halfords. The connector you need is NOT the one that plugs into the back of the stereo, but if you follow this lead back, it'll lead back down to couple of plugs down on the passenger side of the inside of the centre console. There, you'll find two plugs. These are the plugs you plug the PC2 lead into. The PC2 lead will convert to ISO connectors which, hopfully, your new stero will have. Use the original mounting brackets and you should find the holes in the side of the new stereo will mate up.

See if Danny Lui, (pronounced Loo), still works there. I think he was one of the guys that set it up.

Can do if you like.

Clutching at straws now. How about an air leak down at the manifold-to-head or manifold-to-plenum... Possible injector seals?

Ha hasn't got one. He's using 650 PE 'drop-ins'.

Are you saying that the reading is 14.7 to 15.1 through cranking, or at idle, and from warm or cold? From Cold, at idle I'd expect a reading of around 11 or lower. When warm, it will fluctuate between roughly 14.4 to 15.5 as the stock ECU tries to keep it as close to 14.7 as possible. I'm not really sure what it would read whilst cranking due to the amount of current the starter motor pulls, this may 'upset' the guage. Theoretically, I'd expect it should be richer, (lower numbers), while the engine is cranking.