Matt Harwood

Was the previous one a cheap thing? Personally, if you're modifying things, I'd say that an AFR gauge is probably THE most important gauge to have.

Steve, just out of interest, is you're E-01 definitly making adjustments correctly? I've known cases where the E-01 locks up and causes problems. When this happens it seems to corrupt the E-manage and prevent any further adjustments. Usually running rich to be fair, but worth a try? To check it, just let the car idle and make an extreme adjustment on the idle cell and watch the AFR gauge to see if it changes. If the E-01 does need resetting, you need to go to the botom of the 'set-up' menu and select 'initialise' this will erase all its settings. Then, you'll need to input all the basic info like, number of cylinders, throttle type etc, then re-load the a fuel map and send it to the E-manage.

I wouldn't be at all suprised if he's still working on Supra's for a different company.

Legally, 70 Recorded on a track from a standing start, 178 Other, off the clock by about a 20mph increment

If Ian's mapped it, I'm fairly certain it would be set at 0

Just to clarify. The small brown one is the electric aerial relay, the lager cream one is the climate control ECU. The ABS is a metal ECU right at the back of the tunnel. The active spoiler ECU, (where applicable), sits on top of the ABS unit.

Possible, but unlikely. Most likely is the aerial mast is filthy dirty and clogged up with gunge in the joints making the aerial continuity poor. Alternatively, the coax itself or the aerial plug connection could be breaking down. Another alternative is that the radios tuner isn't too great or developing a fault. You can buy a cheapie manual aerial for about a fiver. Pull your radio out and plug the new areial in. That should rule out the stereo.

Either that or people won't bother to reply because they can't be bothered to decipher txt spk

The hybrids may be safe, but do you have the fuelling set up to cope with 1.4 bar?

Sounds like fun

I'm interested!

High pressure

Errr, sorry if this sounds a bit obvious, but wet, on wet days, and dry, on dry days. If the slip is too restrictive or it's a really hot day, try a higher percentage like 10% upwards..

Yeah but the French are known to be weird

12v mate

Yep. Mine is a respray. It's Rover Trophy Yellow. I've been waiting for the paint to go wrong ever since !

Hopefully they won't be needed!

1. Burt 2. Dave F 3. Stupra 4.gaz6148 5. Matt Harwood (Very probably) 6. 7. 8, 9. 10

I'd guess it was at a normal temperature UNTIL you did a launch. Hence it gripped at first, then as it got hotter, it started slipping again... I cooked my clutch at Bovingdon last year. It's fine for day to day driving, but if I start doing some big launches it starts slipping very quickly again.

You're on form tonight Jake!

The clutch will slip more when it's hot.

Yes, but I'm not back at work until Tuesday. If you haven't sorted it by then, give me a call on 01622 683044

I think they're just H3 55w. Nothing special from what I can remember... You should be able to get them from pretty much anywhere. (anywhere that sells bulbs anyway )

Unless you've got a rear crank seal leaking, I can't see how changing the oil would make the clutch slip. Either way, the box will need to come off sooner or later. I'd say it's coincidence. IMO your clutch is most likely in need of changing.

As already said, both, turbos are the same size. The sequential system is very complicated, but basically allows the first turbo to feed from all cylinders and spool up quickly to help drivability. The second turbo, (hence, TWIN!), then comes in at 4krpm to have both, (TWIN), turbos running in paralell to make maximum power with as little lag as possible. Hope that helps.