stevie_b

Ah, the Royal Navy School of Dancing

I'm after a new driver's door rubber seal - the one that runs around the bottom of the door frame (attached to the body, not the door). I've tried to look up on toyodiy what the part number would be - 62311B, see attachment. Is this the right part? Sometimes the diagrams and descriptions on Toyodiy aren't too clear.

Nice one, see you later!

Hi Soopra, yes I wondered that. I might just bring the daily driver, but if there's anyone attending who's used to a W58 gearbox, I'll bring mine and ask them to have a try in it. Just a couple of laps of the car-park, no point in an extended test derive, because once the box is warmed up, it feels fine. It's only when it's cold that it's notchy.

Anyone coming today who runs a W58 box in their car? I've got one, and I've never been quite happy with how it changes gear when it's cold. Was hoping someone else could have a go in my car and see what they thought of it.

I completely agree Al. For a *relatively* simple matter like this (reciprocal rights of UK citizens in the EU to stay where they are, and for EU citizens in the UK to stay where they are), but for something so crucial to so many families and businesses, it's mad not to have a gentleman's agreement already in place between the UK govt and the EU. I don't think allowing EU nationals already in the UK to stay indefinitely, will make a material difference to problems like housing, NHS, schools etc. It will help to give families stability (if you're Polish and you're about to choose a school for your child, what do you do? Gamble on being allowed to stay in the UK? Jack in your job and home and move back to the EU?) , and ensure business continuity (if you're a restaurant and you employ a lot of EU nationals, how worried would you be?) Hopefully mwilkinson is right here - I suspect I would have heard about it if the EU ruled it out.

Nice one, good for you! Don't worry about the bills - yes, you'll be truly skint for a bit, but the non-essential maintenance can wait until you have the funds to do it.

If you pay your membership fee, then you'll be able to PM anyone. I can understand reluctance to pay for access to forums like this, but this one is an absolute mine of knowledge.

marbleapple has done it recently. See post #28 onwards: http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?338406-Marbleapple-s-Supra-pottering-thread-Winter-Tidy-Up/page2

I remember thumbing through a mid-90s Parkers Guide. I treated it like Top Trumps - looking for the highest powered car. I don't think Parkers listed supercars. I remember their description: "looks like a space ship, and goes like one too".

1. KamaSupra +1 2. Soopra +1 3. Gretie22 +1 4. Dan H 5. AdamMelton 6. TT Paul 7. James_cbr (Maybe) 8. mplavery +1 hopefully 9. Ash +1 maybe 10. stevie_b 11.

Happy V-day. Apologies if you don't have facebook, I couldn't find a non-FB link. https://www.facebook.com/cinemadeviant/videos/932351413509897/

Surprised that wasn't an MOT failure. The MOT mandates a switch that lights up.

That's right. With a positive earth, current flows from the chassis to the load (e.g. brake light), and then to the -ve battery terminal. Could it work if you connect the cathode of the LED light to the battery side, and the anode to the chassis side?

Naive question - could you just connect the LED light the "wrong way round"? i.e. connect the light's cathode terminal to the supply (not to earth, which will have a higher potential than the supply). Mixing +ve and -ve earth on a single vehicle sounds like bad news to me - would you have to make sure the two systems are fully segregated? Anything connected across them (maybe the rider, in the case of a bike) will get current flow.

What's the garage please? May be best to PM me to keep the legal eagles happy. I only ask so I can avoid the place myself.

A looong time ago I used Holiday Autos - prices seem good, but haven't read the small print https://www.holidayautos.co.uk/car-hire/malaga.htm#/searchcars

I've never heard of a headlight bulb and its cable being inseperable. I'm assuming it's an aftermarket bulb (HID? I'm not familiar with what they look like). Also, for the mystery power cable - could it be for an older style phone, before they all moved to USB?

Welcome along!

Blown fuses never cause a battery drain. They'll indicate where you might have a short circuit.

Assuming you have a JSpec odometer - readjusting the odo to count in kms will only affect the new distance you travel in the car. The odo is like a counter, which ticks up once for every mile or every kilometre (one or the other, not both!) it travels. It has no knowledge of what the current count means, or what units it's in. This is why some people have an odo reading that they qualify by saying "the first xxx is in miles, then the next yyy is is kms" - personally I don't like that, it's opaque. But doing it properly costs a bit of money and you'd need someone to do it properly and document what they've done.

Your symptoms sound consistent with a partially knackered battery. When batteries get older they don't hold their charge for as long - they'll hold it for several days as opposed to 2+ weeks. When they degrade more, they'll only hold it for a couple of days, then eventually not even a day. You could try taking it for a long drive, then parking it up overnight (the alarm won't work, of course!) and removing the negative battery cable from the battery, to prevent any parasitic drain. I wouldn't put too much emphasis on the 12v off / 14v on readings. 14v when on is telling you the alternator is OK. But a slightly knackered battery can still show 12v off - it's when you try to put a load across the battery (e.g. starter motor) that it gets caned. You could start it daily to top up the battery, and see if that makes a difference. Personally I'd buy a battery charger/conditioner like a Ctek and leave that on overnight, until you get it fixed. Has he tried pulling the fuse from the sound system to prove that it's that that's causing the drain? Or connect a multimeter in ammeter mode in series (not parallel like a voltmeter!) with the battery, and pull fuses to identify when the drain stops.

I recently cleaned my headlights using a Meguirs kit to clean them up, then used this stuff to stop it discolouring in the future: http://www.elitecarcare.co.uk/optimum-opti-lens-advanced-uv-protective-headlight-coating.php It's not cheap (!), but we'll see if it does what it claims to do.

Good thread, it's refreshing to see someone post this type of thread about an NA. Dnk and Scooter have already given good answers. I would add that AFAIK you can't tell if a hose needs changing from a photo unless it's in really, really bad condition (e.g. split). Things to watch out for are collapsed hoses (can't remember how you test for these, but there should be info all over the internet).

Is it just Chrome you're having a problem with? I'm not familiar with chrome but the size of these things is usually controlled by the screen resolution you're using. For example, the address bar in chrome will be a comparable size to the menu bar in every application you have.