stevie_b

I'd be thinking about the expansion bottle lid popping off. I can't remember if the expansion bottle is pressurised like the rest of the system. Something is pressurising the expansion bottle (which may or may not be normal depending on the previous sentance), but the build-up of pressure is being released by the expansion bottle, not the rad cap. This is strange. I can think of 2 possibilities: 1) the expansion bottle cap is faulty, and releases pressure, thus causing the collant to boil and therefore loss of coolant. 2) the system is over-pressurising. (seems unlikely though: the rad cap should pop, especialyl a new one, when this happens). There might be other things to check that I can't think of.

5326 actuations according to the 1st post.

It grates on me the way his voice goes up in pitch by an octave or two when he's having some "banter" with the others. He's probably more annoying than Clarkson these days: at least Clarkson can be amusing when he's not in full smug mode.

I used to get 26mpg out of my NA when I ran it as a daily driver.

No worries.

No Jamie. If I had a stock TT supra, then what I said dictates that I'd need a damn good reason to remove it. If I didn't have such a reason, I'd keep it on. I would trust that Toyota's R&D engineers knew what they were doing when they decided the standard TT car needed a BOV.

Sums up what I would do if I had a turbo'd car. My rule of thumb is, "unless you know why you should perform a modification that changes a car from standard spec, then don't."

Very nice. The ad says it's factory spec apart from the exhaust. Well, it also has had the dildos removed at some point (and the holes not-very-tidily capped), but that's a minor point.

Chris, I'm slightly playing Devil's Advocate here but this is a point of view I read on here a few years ago: suppose BOVs are effective at preserving turbo life (by preventing shock loading) whilst having the unwanted downside of releasing hard-earned boost pressure: that could be a reason why race cars don't have them but domestic cars do: the race teams could presumably fit a new turbo for each race, as long as each one lasted the duration of the race. Whereas domestic users are more concerned with turbo longevity.

On a supra, I thought the speed signal was a square wave pulse, 4 pulses for every hub revolution. No idea how that would translate to a Ford, or whether the ABS system works in the same way or not.

I've been with the RAC for several years. Happy with their service, but they probably play the same games when it comes to renewal time.

That is sad news. His last few tweets paint a desperately tragic picture: "I can't remember what my wife and kids look... all I can see is Raoul Moat's face haunting me like Voldemort." "I've lost my sight, my job, my wife and my marriage." RIP

Welcome along!

The electrical spike you mention is a plausible explanation. The converters are small electronics units and it wouldn't surprise me if a spark when re-connecting the battery could take one out.

PS if I was speaking to someone who had recently made cold fusion happen, I would think of better questions to ask than for a photo of them gurning outside whatever warehouse they did it in.

There are lots of FAQs on that site, but the first few seem concerned with how to buy shares in the company or asking for photos of the Chief Exec in the factory: how odd. A better set of FAQs would surely be, "What is an Ecat?", "What fuel does it need?", etc etc. As a consequence, I don't know if this Ecat thing claims to have achieved cold fusion or not. But yes, cold fusion is one of physics' holy grails. Nuclear fusion produces huge amounts of energy, and it's clean too (no nasty radioactive by-products IIRC). The problem: it takes mind-boggling quantities of energy to make it occur (e.g. you'd need to heat up the fuel to some crazy temperature). Now, if it could be achieved without the huge energy input (with "cold" inputs), then you'd get all that energy out without having to put stupid amounts of energy in. It's never been successfully demonstrated on Earth. The Sun is a fusion reactor, but that is super-hot and is under huge pressure too.

I refer the Rt Hon member to post #10, point 2. Possible, but only if they had the dash apart (or via a strange conicidence). Do you usually have a speedo that reads in mph? I'm just wondering if you really mean "delimiter" and not "speed convert/delimiter". A malfunction in the second will cause the speedo to not work. A malfunction in the first won't affect the speedo as it sits downstream of the speedo, beside the ECU.

I think it would behave like any other FCD. You'll use more fuel if your boost goes above a certain level, but that's what a FCD is supposed to do.

I think it would be OK to estimate it at just under 400bhp (but you'd probably need to check the rwhp or fwhp query). As tericky-ricky said it's notoriously difficult to measure accurately, and you're doing your best to do so. It's people estimating their BPU TT car as 300bhp that they'd have an issue with.

Threads like this could see guys in pubs talking down their BHP figures.

The 18-55mm Nikon kit lens (the basic lens that the cameras tend to ship with) is roughly £100 new, significantly less 2nd hand I would guess.

AJI beat me to it with the link he posted, but above a certain distance from the screen your eyes wouldn't be able to resolve the finer detail that HD (and especially full HD) gives you. I have an HD TV but probably sit too far away from it to make much difference.

It's worth remembering that for low-speed impacts, the structure of some cars (chassis etc) can be damaged but the car can appear to have very little damage because the flexible bits (bumpers mainly) deform then pop back into shape by themselves, usualy leaving just a crack or two in the bumper.

A thermostat that's stuck will either cause the car to overheat (if it's stuck closed) or cause it run permanently cold (stuck open), but wouldn't on its own cause loss of coolant. I guess it's possible that a stuck-closed thermostat could have caused the rad cap seal to fail (this is what they're designed to do, like a safety valve on a pressure cooker), thus boiling off coolant from the rad cap. If the rad cap had failed, I would still expect to see crusty red (or whatever colour coolant you use) crud where coolant has boiled off though.

Those crazy yanks! They must have balls the size of water mellons to perform those stunts.