stevie_b

I agree that interest rates are low. I wouldn't agree that house prices are low. I would think the "average house price / average salary" ratio is not far off its all-time high. That doesn't mean they haven't got further to rise though.

Apart from petrol costs, I don't see any problem in using a Supra as a daily driver. I used to, and they can give ok-ish mpg if not driven hard.

My advice would be to keep the stock air box (and keep the stock filter too, but I'm a fan of OEM parts). There are many induction kits out there that don't have a decent cold air feed, so they sujust have the filter exposed, meaning they draw in warm air from the engine bay which results in a loss of power.

Good for you Lauren! Sounds like you've considered your options, and a standard manual TT is my idea of a dream car.

For sale on behalf of a family member, a Sony DVP-NS305 DVD player. In very good condition with remote and user manual. Silver colour IIRC. Specs can be found here: http://www.sony.co.uk/support/en/product/dvp-ns305. Offers?

+1

The diagram actually assumes your speedo measures in kph (as per Japanese models), so it should be fine for what you want. You only need to refer to part of the diagram: most of it is irrelevent. I posted it because it shows the pins of the odomoter plug clearly (and numbered), so you can identify the odometer's signal in and signal out pins. Ignore everything else.

I bought a Teng 19-110NM wrench from a place called RM Tools on ebay for less than £40. That torque range covers most of the things I'll want to use the wrench for. Thanks for all the suggestions.

It shouldn't have any side effect. I'm not sure what the buffer circuit actually does. If my instructions above are at all unclear then do ask again: best to be sure than to guess and get it wrong!

This is a good read. Keep up the good work Jessica!

The odometer is the thing in the centre of the dashboard that counts up the total miles the car has done. The odometer won't have any effect on the excessive fuel consumption. To bypass its buffer, refer to this diagram, cut the wire from pin 6 and splice the loom-side of the cut to pin 5's wire. Do this at your own risk, but I've advised other people to do it and no-one's had a a problem with it.

Code 42 sounds like a broken buffer circuit in the odometer. You can bypass the buffer circuit to fix it, or fit a new odo but that's more hassle. 11mpg does sound like tired O2 sensors.

Hi Biggenz, Would be good to see some Fiats at Supra Pod go against some supras. No prizes for guessing our favourite marque on this forum, but we're a broad church interested in most cars.

Seconded

There's your mistake. (apologies to any legitimate HW dealers out there, but you seem to be in the minority).

People who don't indicate. You'd surely fail the driving test if you didn't indicate at junctions, roundabouts (and not just when turning right! Cars are equipped with a left-turn indicator as well as a right-turn indicator), so why the frig do you think it's inappropriate for you to indicate now? Although it's maybe tame compared to some of the other antics deployed by drivers, this one takes my no.1 spot because it's so widespread.

A little fact for you: the cardboard containers that the popcorn is served in costs the cinema more to buy than the popcorn they contain.

How do you know you've been over 120 leptons? If the speedo said (say) 125 leptons then chances are you were going less than 120. The converter/delimiter is probably a small (no bigger than a small matchbox) device, maybe not tied down to anything, with a few wires coming out of it. There's a diagram of how to connect a Thor converter on here (a few of my posts about code 42 link to it), and from that you should be able to see what wire is the speedo's speed input signal. If you have a converter, it must be spliced into that wire somewhere.

Good suggestions, thanks guys! How do you go about getting them checked/calibrated? Do you do something home-brew like this? --> http://gl1800riders.com/forums/showthread.php?232615-How-to-perform-your-own-torque-wrench-calibration-testing .... or do some high street firms offer testing services?

What's the most useful one in term of torque range?

I'm in the market for a decent torque wrench for the occasional DIYer. I was looking at the Halfords Professional range (they get good reviews): I'm considering the 60-300NM or the 40-200NM. I can't think what would need more than 200NM of torque, so do you think the 40-200NM would suffice? As a start, I'd like it to handle wheel nuts (103NM on the supra) and odd jobs like the oil sump nut (?? NM), which I'm always worried about over-tightening. Any thoughts, or other recommendations? The Halfords range is about the top end of what I'd like to spend, so although Snap-On etc stuff is nice I couldn't justify the extra expense.

Happy birthday for yesterday Ed!

The OP's question is a fair one IMO. A lot of people talk about mapping on here but very few describe what it is. It would be a difficult question to search for on here because the phrase is used so much, but almost always with little/no explanation. I know very little about it, but here goes: an ECU contains information about how to manage the engine (how much fuel to inject into the cylinders, etc etc) for a given set of input parameters (engine revs, engine temperature, possibly things like boost pressure). In short, it contains a map of engine management vs inputs. The range of inputs in a standard map doesn't go from "0 to infinity": they only cover a small-ish finite range that covers all the likely input values. The map provided by Toyota is fine as long as the inputs aren't going to fall outside that range. When they do fall outside the range (i.e. as a result of major performance modifications) then the ECU needs to be re-mapped in order to cope with the new range(s). Toyot'a stock ECU can't be re-programmed to hold a different map, so a different ECU is needed if a car is to be re-mapped. This is a noddy explanation which leaves many holes and it might be incorrect in some details, but hopefully it'll give the OP a foothold on what we all mean by a re-map.

Nice looking car. I wonder if it's got a lot further to rise price-wise (both in that auction, and its value a few years down the line).

Fair.