stevie_b

You have to remove the motor part to fit the new mast. Removing the motor is straightforward: remove the plastic boot trim to get to the motor. Motor is held in place by one or two bolts IIRC.

I think the odo does have a "km" legend: see here --> http://homepage.ntlworld.com/peter.betts/supra/TechTips/full_odo.jpg Maybe the "km" legend in the OP's display is broken. Changing the speedo to read in mph doesn't automatically change the odo to count in miles. The two are surprisingly separate.

I can't put my finger on it, but I really like reading your updates about your son. Maybe it puts my minor troubles in perspective, I don't know. I genuinely wish I could suggest something useful, but I can't. It's in my nature to try and suggest solutions to things. I'm learning (slowly) that in these situations, what you sometimes need is someone who will listen to you (really listen, not just hear you) and empathise with all the stuff that's in your head. I'm saddened that your long-term friends aren't willing or able to provide that. I can't add anything else, other than please keep us updated.

The starter motor contacts might need replacing. When a car doesn't crank over at all, then a few minutes/seconds later it cranks strongly, that's my usual thought.

Out of curiosity, what made you fit an HKS filter and not a standard Toyota one?

Might not be this, but make sure your subframe bolts are tight. They can cause knocks.

Good post Jim, very helpful.

NA supras have a faster cold idle than TT supras. NAs do tend to idle cold at about 2000rpm. When it's warm the idle should drop to 700ish. 300rpm sounds like a very low idle, can't be far off stall speed.

The subframe bolts, if they're not tight, can cause the car to make some unnerving clunks when manoeuvring slowly, especially reversing with the steering on full lock. However if your car won't move after you get a clunk, it's probably something else. I just pointed this out as it's something to eliminate from your search. What do you have to do to get the car moving again? e.g. if you drive forwards for a bit, does reverse then start working again (until you get another clunk)?

I see the passenger has settled easily into the BMW persona.

I would badger CCI for written confirmation of the actual number of years. I've done this with a different insurer in the past, and once I explained the situation they provided the written proof to me on their headed paper. CCI know what your NCD years were when you joined them, and they also know how many accidents (I'm guessing none) you've claimed for whilst you've been with them, so they have all the info. Pester them if they give you the "computer says no" routine. mellonman: I think 6, 7, sometimes 8 or 9 years' NCD are considered by insurers, but I don't know how much difference it makes to the price, if any. Motor insurance pricing models make MPs' expenses claims look transparent!

It does look like a really nice, standard car. £30k sounds a lot but it's rare to find them this new, this original, this clean. Not many peers to compare it to.

I've also got a Ctek 3600 like Havard. Recommended. Parry: no battery (phone, laptop, or car) likes to be left to discharge. I don't know how shops (e.g. Halfords) keep their batteries sufficiently topped up on their shelves. Cold temperatures will really cane a battery, so if yours is kept in the warm this will help a lot.

Not sure if a UK insurer would insure a Rep. Ireland driver. I doubt you'd get a better quote than with a Rep. Ireland insurer though. There's not much point in us speculating: best to just phone some insurers, lots of threads on here mentioning the usual suspects.

This is a really good write-up. One question relating to a job I might need to do soon, did you clean the *inside* of the heater matrix, and if so what did you use?

Do you cover the +ve connection of the battery to prevent electric shocks or accidental shorting?

I have another question, about greasing the moving parts. I'm confused about the need for grease. Is (red rubber) grease necessary? Surely the dust boots on the pistons will keep the piston walls clean, and the brake fluid will lubricate them too. I can't see why grease on the pistons is necessary. I've heard that some people use grease to lubricate the surface between the piston head and the metal plate that the pistons push against (the one that backs onto the brake pads). I know those two surfaces shouldn't really be moving relative to each other, but I can see that the braking forces might cause them to shift a little bit, and some grease would help them settle into their relative positions when the pistons retract into their bores. Can I use red rubber grease on the slider pins? They're the parts where I can see I *do* need to apply grease, because they have a tendency to stop sliding after a few years.

Anthracite (MSB) or RSP for me.

Stevo, is this the thread you mean? --> http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?207694-Sticky-seatbelt My seatbelt suffers from this too.

Understood, thank you guys.

I think I'll try to get it out using the car's hydraulics or compressed air. Dnk, you mentioned I should clean the piston and its bore before putting it back in. The free piston hasn't actually fully popped out, it's just loose at the limit of its travel. The dust boot is still in place and hasn't perished or popped off as far as I can see. I presume that means the cleaning is unnecessary as no dirt should have entered the caliper. You also said I should pop the inner seal out. I guess this also isn't necessary if the free-moving piston hasn't left its bore?

Thanks Dnk, I tried to wiggle the piston out with a variety of tools: rubber strap wrench, nylon strap wrench (oil filter removal tool, basically), mole grips, plumber's adjustable spanner (pipe grips). The strap wrenches just slipped on the piston. The mole grips and plumber's spanner started to score the surface of the piston, despite using some 120 grit sandpaper as a protective barrier. It's only scored the tapered tip of the piston, as that's the only part that's peeking out from the caliper, but I didn't want to continue and knacker the surface. Having read your post though I guess the tapered tip doesn't matter too much. It's the cylindrical body that needs to be kept free from scratches. How much did you scratch your piston tips by using pipe grips?

An update: thanks to Scooter's advice in this thread (also mentioned by Digsy in an old thread) I managed to extract one of the stuck pistons. The other piston (the one that's not in line with the hydraulic feed hole) is still stuck. I have three choices: 1) buy some caliper piston pliers, and hope I can get enough grip/force on them to budge the piston. e.g. http://www.diytools.co.uk/sealey-vs1806-motorcycle-brake-piston-removal-pliers.html Disadvantage: might not get enough force on it. 2) buy a push-back tool to try to get the free piston back in its cylinder. Disadvantage: might not be able to push it in. 3) Refurb the free piston including replacing the rubber seal, refit the piston, connect it up to the car hydraulics, bleed, chock the free piston with wood blocks to force the stuck piston out. Disadv: might need to refurb the free piston twice (new seals) if I contaminate it with crud/rust when I finally extract the stuck one. I'm pretty sure both pistons on this caliper were moving OK 4 or 5 months ago, so I don't think the stuck one is seized for good. Any suggestions?

For standard or lightly-modified supras you've got it spot-on I think. The basics are the same as any other car. Supras don't have any "oddities" that I can think of. In fact supras tend to be more resilient against owner abuse than other cars.

Thanks Scooter. One of the calipers has the stuck piston that's in line with the brake line fitting, but the other caliper isn't. I'll give it a go one that one.