stevie_b

Bleed some out of the sump drain hole until the level is at the max mark. Unless you wrap your sump nut with PTFE tape (I've heard it's unwise to do this anyway) then it'll only take a few minutes. If it's "way above" like you say, it's not worth the risk of popping a seal or causing other problems by leaving it.

Almost certainly the starter motor contacts. You can buy a refurb kit from Toyota. Search on here for something like "starter motor contacts".

Graham S is 20 mins away from Reading in Basingstoke. He services my NA and is a mechanic by profession. You can drop him a PM on here.

Need more background info really, but the ticking noise could be worn bearings in one of the pulleys that the aux belt turns. My engine makes what could loosely be described as a ticking noise, and I think it's the PS pump pulley. To test this, you could remove the aux belt from the crank pulley (or whatever drives it) and run the engine for a few seconds (not too long, water pump is fed from aux belt IIRC!)

Sad times indeed. You were one of the members I remember when I was new. Ride safe!

Maybe you don't have a PDF reader installed on your PC. In summary, if the trans code on the VIN plate is "B" you have an LSD. If it's "A" you have an open diff.

Nail, head I suspect. It's a good plan, although some of the finer details have been sketched over.

Have you tried supporting the supra on its axles? Unless you're working on something like an old Series Land Rover, you'd probably need an alternative approach (I've not got much experience in this though so happy to be corrected). Since independent suspension and transaxles became the norm many years ago, axle stands can't easily be used on what passes as axles. CV shafts aren't load-bearing AFAIK, so I'm not sure they'd take kindly to be being used to support a car's weight. Even if they were, cross-members like on the front of the supra won't let you put an axle stand within a sniff of the axle.

Good thread. From reading and asking questions on here, I gather that the sill jacking points are not the best places to jack the car up, possibly because the sill's protruding lip is liable to get crushed by the weight of the car pushing down on the OEM wheel jack. I'm guessing that the jacking areas on the sill are reinforced to take the car's weight over a small area (if not, it'd be a pretty rubbish jacking point!) So, I guess one of the requirements of the axle stand adapter is that it has a recess deep enough to prevent the lip being crushed: is that correct?

I don't think prices will rise significantly for a few years. There's too many of them around to be rare, and they're arguably not as iconic as other fast cars that have appreciated (thinking of Sierra Cosworths and the like). Bide your time, keep looking, get a feel for prices.

I do too. Big fan of the stock look.

Welcome to the club. I'm not sure what you mean by that. Do you mean what's the difference between a non-turbo 2JZ (known as 2JZ-GE) and a twin turbo 2JZ (known as 2JZ-GTE)? To echo what other people have said about insurance, insurers use complicated algorithms to come up with a premium and unfortunately there's no alternative to getting a few actual quotes.

I've never heard of a P0500 error code. Did you check them yourself or did a garage do it for you? If you checked them yourself with a paperclip, the ECU can only flash digit-based codes at you, and AFAIK they don't go above two digits (I might be wrong though). See this diagram: http://homepage.ntlworld.com/peter.betts/supra/TechTips/dsc_speedo_mph.jpg Cutting pin 6 of the odo plug, blanking off the plug side of the cut and splicing the wire going into pin 5 of the speedo plug to the loom side of odo pin 6, will bypass the odo's output buffer. It's been done before with no ill effects, but of course you do this at your own risk. This assumes you don't have a speedo converter fitted. If you do, that changes the procedure a bit. The pink wire you cut or spliced, could that have been the one going to the ECU (pin 2 on the diagram)? Any wiring alterations are prime candidates for things going wrong so it could be worthwhile you lifting the carpet up and having a look to see what you spliced into what.

Curious post. Are you a trader?

Guys, this smells like code 42 (no.2 speed sensor error). The buffer output circuit of the odometer can give up after several years, and this will cause the ECU to throw a speed sensor error because the odo buffer is where it gets the speed signal from. I would try bypassing the output circuit. Not sure if you've done it already though (you mention the "splice thing" in your first post but don't say what that is).

Good post by Chris Wilson there. Most bodykits seem to be 100% style and not much substance.

I don't think the NA is regarded as having better handling because of a lighter engine or any other reason. Maybe the power's more predictable (linear as you pointed out), but that's it. It's not something the TT guys on here raise as a concern.

Did you mean a 1JZ, or a 2JZ which is the engine that mkiv supras were supplied with? A 1JZ is perfectly possible, there's a currently active thread discussing it, and several members use a 1JZ. I would guess it's a fair bit more work than fitting a superchip though (if one existed). As Abz said, changing the brakes isn't necessary, but you would need the proper ECU (and who knows what other supporting parts) to run the 1JZ engine. Have you considered the loom? You'd need to join the 1JZ loom to the 2JZ loom that's already in the car. This might be a simple job but you'd need to work out (or ask on here) how to do it.

Unlucky. As Ian said, it's of little consolation to you but well done for not playing the Victim Card.

Ah, I didn't read it like that. I'm still not sure if one can be shocked in a positive or pleasing way though.

So "shocking" means "good" in this context?

Welcome to the forum. It might be my firewall but I can't view any of your photo links. PS what do we call you? Same type of dilemma as when Prince changed his name from "Prince" to a symbol.

Another suggestion: if you manage to fix the issue and the solution isn't obvious in the discussion, then please take the time to post up what you did to successfully fix it. How many of you have read a thread that describes the exact problem they're having, only to find the thread goes dead before a solution is reported? OK, in some of those cases maybe a solution is never found, but I bet there's a fair few where the OP loses interest in the thread when they've fixed the problem either by themselves or via advice that's been offered. The above doesn't happen as much on here as on other quieter forums, but it's still good practice and polite. After all, by submitting tech help threads we're accessing a free source of knowledge, and sometimes it's time to feed knowledge back into the system.

It's been asked many times before, and discussed in part in this thread, but you have two choices: 1) fit a single turbo to the NA engine, we tend to call this "NA-T" 2) remove the NA engine and fit a twin turbo engine. Both of these routes will need supporting parts as well (e.g. NA-T will need engine management, intercooler, etc etc). I would suggest the TT route as it's a stock item, so you get the benefit of many £000's of Toyota's R&D experience.

PS I would do this if I was changing the O2 sensors. Not sure if it's necessary but it's an easy thing to do, and does no harm.