stevie_b

This and this. When turning in the wet, use balanced (by this I mean keep the engine revs constant and leave the gear stick alone if its a manual) and conservative throttle: it's not very exciting but it should keep the car facing the right way. Acceleartion (not speed) causes cars to skid or spin. Remember that acceleration is at its highest in very low gears, so when you're accelerating in 1st or 2nd, this is when the rear is most likely to let go, especially in you're turning. Same goes for braking. You can get away with hard braking much more if you're not turning. If you're braking and turning sharply, be prepared to touch cloth.

Climbing types refer to that as a "de-gloving"

Absolutely. When I bought my MSB 9 years ago most people weren't too bothered by the colour. I loved it, did from the moment I saw it.

It's probably all covered in the buyers' guide, but I can't think of any mkIV supra-specific faults to watch out for.

It's not stuck, it's locked. Next time Ed asks you if his handkerchief smells funny, run away!

You're very near your post limit without paying the £10 fee. 35 or 40 posts I think it is. I admire your passion for supras. You've clearly thought about it with your last shopping list post. Do some more research, save hard, then it might happen.

Check all electrical joints where the Thor converter joins to your loom. One of them might have a dry or loose solder joint. Ensure all joints are insulated.

Welcome to the club Christine.

The bean-counter's view: You won't get the value back from any respray you do. It'll make the car look a lot nicer if the respray is done well, but that's it. A respray, depending on the before and after difference, will add a bit of value, not almost certainly not as much as the respray costs. If you've got an auto TT, a £4k paint job is a significant chunk of the car's worth (£7k very roughly). Have you thought about asking Stonkin to do one of his "paint revival" jobs on it? Highly recommended on here.

4500rpm is about when the butterfly valve opens to give the N/A a bit more oomph. I can't remember any more details about it unfortunately, but it might give you a clue as to why your car's flat in the midrange.

You must must must insulate your joins.

That's good news. I'm really pleased for you and Nath.

You need to pay a subscription fee to post in For Sale or Wanted, then you can post in that section. Posting For Sale / Wanted threads elsewhere is just trying to circumvent this rule.

The pillar gauges hint at a boost gauge. Of course it's possible they're not turbo-related, or just tell the time in New York and Milan.

Quick question, why not use the red grease that Toyota supply? Not practical if you do it for a living, but if I can eake it out, should I just use the stuff they supplied in the kit?

Thanks Nic. By molybdenum grease, do you mean something like this? :- http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/200854449661 Or does it need to be moly grease specifically for brake applications?

I phoned up Toyota and they said it was "assembly grease", and I think it's safe for the slider pins as well as the pistons. I'm assuming the "disc brake grease" that goes on both sides of the anti-squeal shims has to be sourced separately. What would you recommend for that? Copper grease?

Perhaps they're not insured. Unlikely but possible.

Good point Abz. The way she handled it is worse than poor. The only positive about how she's gone about this is that she didn't try to say, "no wasn't me guv, honest". I doubt whether the police would take any action, but I'd be tempted to try anyway. Just driving off! What flipping planet are these people from?

Does anyone know whether the red grease supplied in the Toyota refurb pack is "lithium soap based glycol grease"? I'm guessing not but it's in an anonymous sachet. A clue here, post #7 --> http://www.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/117761-brake-caliper-guide-pin-grease-type/ Part number 08887-01206. But here it says differently: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1014314 Toyota Disc Brake Caliper Grease p/n 08887-80609 Toyota Disk Brake Grease III, tube 100 gm, p/n 08887-02706 Flippin' confusing! I could phone up Toyota and see if they know.

Link to wiring diagram on post #17: http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?274212-1996-Supra-N-A-5spd-problems!-Check-Engine-and-!/page2 The diagram shows you how to wire up a TRL speed converter, but it also does a good job of explaining what some of the wires going into the speedo and ECU do. If your pink wire in the ECU goes nowhere, you should be getting a code 42 error. Do your error warning lights work? Anyway, that's a secondary issue..... The speedo gets its input signal on pin 5 (blue with red stripe) of the speedo plug. Follow what that wire is connected to. It often leads to the speed converter.

Avoid the mistake I made and make sure all the pistons are nearly out before you remove the caliper(s).

I'm in the process of fully refurbing my J-spec front brake calipers, and I'm wondering what to use for lubrication on the slider pins? Some people use copper grease, but others say that's not right as it's too abrasive and is an anti-seize rather than a lubricant: http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/archive/index.php/t-138469.html Chris Wilson kindly pointed out to me that I shouldn't use red rubber grease on the slider pins, I think it's because the pins get too hot for it (hopefully he'll correct me if I've got the reason wrong). Chris: do you sell the Neo cv moly grease in re-sealable containers? The grease is something I'd like to keep handy in my toolbox when when I eventually refurb the rear calipers. If so that could be ideal. This is a possibility: http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-24115-Caliper-Hi-Temp-Silicone/dp/B000HBGKH4 So is this, but it depends on what your rubber seals/ dust boots are made of: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HBNV6W Some good info here, but the stuff they recommend might not be available in the UK: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1082760 Shipped from the US here: http://www.amazon.com/CRC-SL3301-Synthetic-Caliper-Grease/dp/B000M8Q234

The speedo converter will almost certainly be wired in behind the speedo somewhere. If your speedo doesn't work, the signal is being lost close to its source (it goes to the speedo first, the speed signal actually reaches the ECU last).