stevie_b

I use 10w40 semi synthetic.

Check your brake fluid level is at the max mark. Low brake fluid can cause this (and when accelerating, it can cause the fluid to move about in the reservoir sufficiently to trigger the low fluid warning). It could be the speed converter, but if it is that isn't a serious issue: it can be ignored. The danger is that there are other issues. When those warning lights light up, it means the ECU has logged error codes. You really need to get those error codes to us by using the paperclip trick.

Do a search for error codes. You bridge two connections on the diagnostic port with a paperclip.

What's up with yours? We might be able to help before the meet. There's not much that guys on here haven't come across.

The Basingstoke meet organiser-in-chief is KamaSupra. I quite fancy another meet now my supra's road legal again. I'll drop him a line.

There are meets in Basingstoke when the weather's not grim, bit of a trek from Southampton though. Fitting a speed delimiter is straightforward, but like anything, it depends on how comfortable you with working on the car (and with soldering a few wires together). I've fitted a combined delimiter and speed converter to mine.

Can't help with your question, but it reminded me of a story I've heard where a Royal Navy engineer dropped a huge spanner across the terminals of a battery that powered one of the old-style diesel submarines... They never did find the spanner afterwards. :o

As said, the angle of attack of those Machine Mart ramps looks way too steep for a supra, even an unmodified one. The supra's front wheels sit some way back from the nose of the bonnet, and this is what can scupper them. I would use some planks of wood of decreasing length, screwed together to form a ramp. Lightweight, cheap and sturdy.

^^ Blank post here by David P, what's going on?

Update: both slider pins on one of the front brakes are incredibly stiff. Not using the rubber bush at the tip of the pin has helped a tiny bit, but not enough. I guess the next step is to open out the pin bores a tiny bit with a flap wheel or similar.

How do you know the starter motor is OK? What tests have you done?

Hard to see because of the markings on the photo, but could it be the aircon condensation drain pipe? Edit: probably not if it's near the pulleys.

Gaz6002 for PM: middle lane morons annoy me.

Compulsory re-tests every 10 years.

You're not a failure as a father. I can see the thought processes that cause you to think like that (and I'd probably think like that if I were in your situation), but you're not a failure. I read your updates regularly and you do more for Nath than most dads do for their kids.

Bienvenue au forum. £7500 is a good budget. I would say a TT aerotop or TT 6 speed are within budget.

Note that the small rubber collar on the end of each slider pin (called something like an anti-squeal bush) is marked in the workshop manual as a non-reusable part, but Toyota don't include them in their brake refurb kit!

If they think like that it's very perverse, as if making someone else's journey harder makes their own easier. OK, so it'll slow them up a *tiny* bit, but not worth worrying about.

Thanks Chris!

Are JSpec brake pad carriers "sided" (i.e. specific to the left and right sides of the car)? Not that I can tell but thought I'd make sure. On my fronts, one is stamped as L and one as R, but looking at the marks left by the piston heads, it looks like the L one was fitted to the driver's side and vice versa!

I reckon you're right. There was a similar thread recently about whether it's best to invest in a UK spec or a JSpec. Whilst a mint JSpec might beat a shoddy UK spec, a mint UK spec is surely the best bet, and that's what you might have there (check the underneath for rust). With rare cars, there comes a choice whether you try to keep it mint to maintain its investment value, or enjoy driving it regularly. Unfortunately these tend to be mutually exclusive choices. If I were in your position, I would garage it and drive it on occasional long trips, not on trips to the Maccy D's drive-thru 2 miles down the road. If I was really lucky, I'd buy another, less-rare, supra as a run-around, so I could still enjoy the buzz of driving one whilst not having to wring my hands with worry every time I wanted to park in Asda for a pint of milk and some Pot Noodles.

That looks near perfect. Being black will help too > Whatever you do, if you're keeping it as an investment don't modify it. Nothing makes a collector's heart sink more than seeing the words "tasteful mods".

As an investment, IMO it would need to be as stock as possible. A stock JSpec would be much more preferable to a modified UK spec. The phrase "tasteful mods" will make any collector's heart sink.

There's so few about, you can't be too choosy. The mileage isn't really the biggest thing to check, it's how it's been maintained and whether the bodywork is on good condition. So to answer your question, 100k+ on a well maintained car should be fine.

I would normally say check the earth connections, but that's unlikely to be a cause because it only happens when the radio signal is weak. Check the aerial is connected properly, and check the brake light and head unit earths anyway.