stevie_b
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Everything posted by stevie_b
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Not my cup of tea at all, but some people like that look. Price: £2500? An NA automatic hardtop is usually considered to be the lowest spec. The car will sell or not based on if a buyer comes along who likes the wide arch and big wing look.
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That looks good!
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Supra Prices rising in Japan vastly over last 12 months..
stevie_b replied to Jurgen-Jm-Imports's topic in Supra Chat
Good for you! Are you keeping the Aerotop as well? -
Is your odometer configured to count in miles or kms? Being an import, as standard it would be kms. That still doesn't explain 100 vs 115 miles travelled. I would check your speed converter first. The better ones have adjusters in them to fine-tune the conversion. They don't usually need it though.
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Welcome to the club Joe. Good luck with the car search.
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Wheel clamp? But anything like that would be a hassle to fit/remove every time you want to use the car, and I imagine a clamp that'll put up a fight against a saw or disc cutter won't be cheap.
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Is that an MG Hammond was in? Weather looks good: it's been lashing down in Hants today. Japfest seems to have its fair share of biblical weather.
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I just googled reaming. It's either got an alternative meaning, or car maintenance has changed A LOT recently. The pins on one of my front JSpec calipers are very stiff, so I might have to get reaming. What tools would I need?
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Welcome to the club! Good work for researching it yourself: that goes a long way on here. There's lots of knowledgeable people here that can help if you have questions you can't find answers to though.
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I doubt I'll make this: family time.
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Go BPU, but keep the OEM parts so you can put them back if required.
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That is lovely. Even better if it was black though.
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I generally agree with you, but this is a debate that can't be won by anyone. It's subjective as to which bodykits people like, if any. Let it go, you'll only wind people up.
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Surely all stock supras, by definition, were "done" like that. All he's done is changed the wheels and exhaust AFAIK, and looked after it so the paintwork is in good nick and it has few/no dings.
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If you mean the bodykit in the 1st post, then I agree. It's got panel gaps you could park a bus in. I like Benjy's car: not too lairy, and looks like the kit wouldn't get in the way of actually using it. It's not what I'd do with mine though: I get clammy hands when I think about changing the stock 16" wheels with stock 17" ones. Meh, couldn't even fit matching wheels.
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Yes. Yes, they do.
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Battery drain active spoiler and one click on first start
stevie_b replied to ASM's topic in mkiv Technical
Refurb your starter motor contacts. There's a guide on here on how to do it. Toyota sell the refurb kit, no need to buy a new starter motor. -
Battery drain active spoiler and one click on first start
stevie_b replied to ASM's topic in mkiv Technical
Starting problem: when you turn the key the 2nd time, does the engine crank over strongly? If it does, your battery's not at fault, it's probably the starter motor contacts. If the battery hasn't got enough juice in it to start the car the first time, it won't have enough for the 2nd, 3rd, 4th etc time either. -
Ah, it's been a long day! So yes, they have the same feed. The speed signal first goes to the speedo, which then re-broadcasts it to the odometer. The odometer uses it, buffers the signal (it's this buffer that often gives up and causes error code 42, speed sensor error) and re-broadcasts it to the ECU. The speedo's at the start of the chain, and the ECU's at the end of the chain.
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That's correct. I don't want to hijack the OP's thread any more, but if you want to open another thread I'll happily go into more detail.
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Tayfun: your problem is probably caused by a failed output buffer in the odometer. You can probably connect the odo input to the odo output to fix this. I did a detailed description ages ago, let me see if I can find it...
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Hmm, unusual. Sounds like the converter is some kind of piggy-back device. I'd still try removing it and see what happens. If the speedo then works, you've proven it's the converter at fault. If the speedo still doesn't work, it doesn't prove anything because as you said, the speedo's circuit *might* have been altered (seems very unlikely though).
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For the purposes of the test, you should be able to connect the blue with red stripe wire from the speed sensor (the converter will take this as an input) direct to pin 5 of the speedo connector block. Disconnect the converter so you haven't got competing signals down one wire. Depending on the details of the converter, this might stop the odometer from working (and thus generate an error code at the ECU), but it'll be enough to see if your speedo is basically sound.
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So the only part you (or the garage) are swapping are the discs, is that correct? Swapping discs is an easy, non-messy job, but I don't know if removing the aftermarket bell complicates the job much. Probably not I'd guess. This means it's either the aftermarket disc that's causing the poor braking, or something else. When's the last time the brake fluid was changed?
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I agree that it's likely to be either the speedo dial or the speed converter, and my money's on the converter (or at least the electrical connections to/from it). Try wiring the speedo back to stock and see if the speedo works again.
