stevie_b

Agreed. I wouldn't even buy TRD ones, unless I had a highly modified Supra and I knew for sure why they were better than stock.

It's not a glowing review of the event.

I went a few years ago. It was a top, top day out, and I've no reason to think it isn't now. Probably more crowded than I remember though! I would consider flying to Southampton as that's probably the nearest airport. I don't think there's a train station nearby but I'm sure their website will suggest some good travel options.

Surely using boiled water is worse than using water straight from the tap? When you boil the kettle, the steam is the bit you'd really like - condense it into a cold container, and you've basically got distilled water. The water left behind in the kettle will have a higher concentration of calcium and others bits 'n' bobs than unboiled tap water. I suppose using boiled tap water in a soft water area means you'll have killed off most of the bugs in the water, so less likely to get algae etc. Edit: just re-read the bit about using a water filter to remove calcium etc. Kind of makes sense, although I don't know how effective those water filters are.

I know "maybe" is non-committal: I've got some time off around then so days out or DIY might prevent my attendance.

Great looking car. I really think you're on to something with the Corrado. I've always liked them but I'm not in the market for one (insufficient money and space, and probably time). Squat, muscular-looking. I remember reading about them in a well-thumbed Parkers Guide, whilst my peers were "reading" Razzle.

I agree with the airlock theory. As for the leak, have the garage done a pressure test on the cooling system?

The company referred to in these links might not be the same one as the OP was talking about. There's probably several companies called Boys Toys.

Star Wars day!

Try here: http://www.performancebatteries.co.uk You can search by car, and they do have late Mkiv Supras in their database unlike many websites. Just had a look, and they've got 2 at about £50 inc VAT. One of them is a Varta which are reckoned to be a good make. I've bought from that website several times: very pleased with them.

That's what I thought too: IIRC the signal from the speed sensor (what you're calling the driver) is a square wave pulse, which you'd need an oscilloscope to test.

What do you mean by "the driver"? Apologies for stating the obvious, but it sounds like an electrical short somewhere. I would double- and triple-check any wiring or circuitry which you have touched.

The Bilstein shocks are generally accepted to be better than the standard black ones. I don't know why, someone else more knowledgeable will be along soon...

Had you disconnected the battery? Sounds like the ECU was re-learning the idle speed. Nothing to worry about IMO unless it's accompanied by other symptoms.

NA cold idle is about 1800-2000rpm (noticeably higher than the TT cold idle). Warm idle is 700-800rpm.

"I love the smell of leather in the morning!"

[hijack] Or, for a more modest sum of money, here's a Volvo 340 with 130 miles on it: http://uk.news.yahoo.com/stuck-in-a-time-warp--pristine-1987-volvo-auctioned-after-owner-parked-it-in-garage-for-27-years-110203325.html#vtT5UxG [/hijack]

That seems to be getting rarer. 'Tis a shame.

It's silver.

It is normal: I've got that on my NA too. Pretty sure they're brake and clutch like Ric said.

If my diagnosis is right, I don't think giving the contacts a clean will fix it, because I don't think it's surface crud that's the problem. Someone will hopefully correct me if I'm wrong. A better test would be to have someone tap the starter motor with a soft hammer/mallet whilst someone else tries to start the car.

Starter motor contacts needs refurbing. (edit: do a test to see if locking/unlocking the car plays an important part. I think it won't, but if it does then it might be an immobiliser problem) Read this: http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?70712-Car-reluctant-to-start Sound familiar?

A bit more detail please. When it started, did the battery turn over the engine strongly, or did it sound very sluggish and slow? My guess (and it is a guess without more info) is that it's the starter motor contacts). If the battery is depleted, the situation isn't usually rectified by locking and unlocking the car (i.e. using even more battery power). When my starter motor contacts were failing, bizarrely leaving it a few seconds between cranking often caused the car to start eventually.

That's the case with many things. People (here, other forums, Facebook, etc, it tends to be confined to websites with a social networking slant) tend to exaggerate to make their posts more dramatic.

I've got a hammered boy racer manual, so I won't get anything near that if I sell mine.