stevie_b

Moobs don't count.

Very good advice particularly from Al. My 2p worth: 1) It's really hard with your first love. You do a lot of things for the first time (not just sex). The rush of feel-good chemicals in your brain when you're in love can be extremely powerful, and the feeling and memories really gets under your skin (in a great way when it's going well, and in a "I'm grasping a burning hot coal" painful kind of way when it's not). 2) Why has Havard not prescribed a lemsip and a w**k? Is he feeling OK? 3) I do think you're better off without her. That's really cliched and sounds straight out of the agony-aunt pages, but I believe it to be true. I refer to Al's excellent advice here. Sure, she has depression and probably needs support to help her with that. Her treating you like dirt may be a symptom of that, but it won't help her or you. 4) You probably hate her right now for posting up that stuff about seeing another guy. I think she's done you a favour by saying that. It's clarified that she's either using emotional blackmail to win you back (and that story's unlikely to have a happy ending, because I can't see that behaviour changing for a very long time) or b) she is very quick to move on, which suggests she was either seeing someone else already, or she is desperate to have a boyfriend. Needing a boyfriend/girlfriend is different from finding someone you want to spend your life with. One starts with "I need a guy/girl, I'll go out and find one", and the other is "Wow, you're fantastic, can we get to know each other better?" Try not to hate her. I don't think she was with you for the intention of using you. Love is tricky. She's dealing with the breakup in the way she knows. So must you.

It's sold now. Time will tell if it reappears with a higher price.

This made the front page of the Metro this morning. In that, they said his videos involved an M5, Audi RS6 and GTR.

If it's either of these, the speedo won't work.

Code 42 I'm assuming your speedo still works, as you said there's no obvious symptoms other than the warning lights. It's probably caused by the buffer circuit failing in the odometer unit. There are threads about that: I've posted in most of them. There's a modification you can do to the odo which bypasses the buffer circuit. Or, you can replace yours with a known good odo unit, and get the mileage counter rest to what it should be for your car.

Yep, it's a mk1 CMax.

My wife has scraped our daily driver down one side, against a post. What would you recommend to fix it up? My main priority is to prevent rust or other long-term problems. I don't know if it's feasible to fix it up so the damage is unnoticeable. Can anyone recommend a particular repair centre in Basingstoke / North Hampshire? The post is fine.

Yes please

I've heard it's a bit fiddly for a novice DIYer. I've never done it so I'm not speaking from experience.

Are the wheels staggered fitment? i.e. wider rears?

They're kind of the same thing. A synchro will help the gear match the speed of the engine. Poor gear change will be caused by very aggressive changes I suppose. But if the synchro is worn, no matter how carefully you nurse the gear change, it will crunch, unless you match the engine and gearbox speed.

Some good questions here. My personal situation is that my car has about 110k miles on it. I'm sure most people claim this, but I change gear very sympathetically. I've never drag-raced, and never done any kind of competitive driving, track days, or anything like that. The car has standard power and torque. It's all standard: clutch, cats, airbox, etc etc. Looking back at some of my old threads on here, I was asking about a crunchy gear change in 2006! Then, I did more miles in the car and the issue goes away once the box is warm. Now, I do a very short commute so it's much more prominent. Whatever's causing it, I don't think it's got any worse in the 9+ years of my ownership.

How much were you quoted for shipping, if you don't mind me asking?

@Luxluc: what courier will you use for shipping the transmission over to the US? I've been quoted $640 just for shipping.

I wonder where the front wings have gone? Unlikely to be crash damage, but who knows? The ad doesn't explain. It's also down a rear spoiler between pics 1 and 3.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181892932435

This might repeat what other people have said. I have read the previous posts, but thought I'd put it in my own words. There's 2 issues here, and they're not related: 1) There's a website that has a similar domain, but a different top level domain (e.g. something.com, and something.co.uk). I'm not an expert on legal ramifications, but the only issue that might arise is trademark. Unless it's an international trademark, I suspect it would be problematic to prove some kind of wrongdoing (which law applies, for starters? With .co.uk, then UK law, but with .com, who knows? US law at a guess? Very complicated.) 2) The "hyperlinking back to the main website" is fairly common. Purely a technical issue, easy to do, no other ramifications or repercussions.

Probably sit on the roadside, waiting for a breakdown recovery truck. What happened?

For my future reference as much as anything, I searched on here about the adjstable clutch pedal and found this (post 17 in particular): http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?44729-Supra-Clutches-can-you-alter-the-biting-point/page2 I've tested the clutch on my car, and it bites roughly in the middle of the pedal travel.

I'm going through a similar process with my W58 box. 2nd is crunchy when it's cold. Currently looking at getting the box opened up by a transmission specialist so he can look at what needs replacing, then order the parts in from Toyota.

As Mike said, if you don't undo the block's drain plug, you'll leave about half of the coolant in the system still. http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?323938-Coolant-drain-plug-on-block I found the coolant drain plug very hard to find. Some people have done it without, but IMO you need to remove the exhaust heat shield to stand a chance of finding it.

Interesting, these are my symptoms. When you say the clutch engaged at the bottom of the pedal travel, do you mean the biting point was right at the bottom?

I haven't fixed it yet. I've been speaking with a transmission specialist who'll take the gearbox apart and see what (if anything) needs replacing. From advice on here and from the gearbox guy, I strongly suspect it's a worn synchro. I haven't tried adjusting the clutch rod. Could this still be the cause if the gearchange is fine once the box has warmed up, and that it only happens on a specific gear change? The reason I ask is that I don't want to fiddle with other settings, and compound the problem.

I use a big syringe thing to suck the new oil out of the bottle, and push it into the diff. I don't think there's any space above the filler hole to pour straight from the bottle, even if the bottle has a tube spout. You have to get into a more awkward position for the gearbox than for the diff, but it's still not comfortable.