fastphil666

How much are you selling the skirts for? Are they 6n0 colour, gun metal grey?

I may have a slip control switch? Is it the type with snow/slip control?

Can the crown wheel be swapped from a tt auto small case to this, retaining your ratio's? Or take the lsd and fit it to the auto tt casing? Same thing really.

I think your bangnon the money with it being iacv valve. Thats the one highest in the engine bay, the one you bypass for ttc. After its run on friday i checked resistance as i have previously. This time however it was all over the shop, 65ohms at one point but wouldnt settle down. Ranged from 50-65ohms in about 5 seconds of checking. I only have a cheapo multimeter so i'll have to check again with a better one. Didnt want to buy a vsv if it was a split pipe, having checked and renewed all vacuum lines im happy its the iacv if my resistance results were correct.

I have just run the car in ttc mode, just to diagnose. Man its loud!! it seems quicker though? So my question now, what does ttc bypass? Pressure tank, all vsv's or all the above? Am i closer to diagnosing the issue?

Yep, watched it last night. I like it but numbers wise it wasnt done justice. If it could launch more effectively it would have cut the 0-60 and 1/4 times down drastically. I understand the ins an outs of reliably launching an older car, but a lot will take the results as gospel and think theyre golf r is faster!! Similar to the car wow vid the other week, mk4 vs mk5 supra's, if it had effective launch control it would have been bloody close!!

Just had a thought, i notice my issue mostly when ive dropped down in manual mode (auto tt car) to 2nd. The car is at say 45mph and just under 4krpm. If i boot it then, it sometimes doesnt make full boost for sequential, about 17psi in my case. Am i asking too much, in going into load at the transition point to 2nd turbo so the system hasnt pre spooled 2nd turbo (using egcv) Is it fine and im finding a hole in the system? The way sequential works means it has to make boost on 1st turbo, pre spool 2nd and change to parralell, im asking it to do that in around 1k rpm range.

Ive owned this one for 2 years now. Its my second one, my 31st car ive owned in 17 years of driving.

If it was a permanent no boost in 2nd turbo, i would be really worried. It will work 99% of the time, sometimes it will make a loud boost noise but only show 3-5 psi on the gauge. Come off the throttle and go again an it would boost and transition fine. I'll try ttc for a good 100 mile drive and see if it works 100% of the time, if so i'll look at a new iacv vsv. Thanks folks

Ive got aftermarket ones of those and have checked them after reading about them falling apart. All good. I have checked all vsv's previously using a guide. Were all ok but i know they can be intermittent and fail at any time. Ttc should let me know if any of them are at fault though. In the case of the dumpvalve i have thought about fitting a recirc adapter to it, the autobox should benefit from a recirc valve?

Well, ive just had half an hour spare. Linked a bike pump to the dumpvalve pipe, it held 40psi fine, so that will do for me. Ive always suspected a dodgy vsv but have bench tested all 4 an they were fine. I need to vacuum test the pressure tank, but im thinking of trying ttc just to rule stuff out. Ttc bypasses all vsv's, and the pressure tank?

Had an intermittent thing with my tt auto. Sometimes you'd put your foot down and get 5psi of boost which didnt go up even when the 2nd turbo should join the party. If you came off the throttle and back on, id get 9psi then 17psi at 4.5krpm, all good. Suspected a leak at the dumpvalve. Took it apart and put it back together. The circlip that joins the dv to the adapter, should it allow the dv to spin in the body or should it be rock solid? Before removal it couldnt be turned but its free-er now. The issue occurs more frequently now, so i think i was right. Think boost is escaping through the circlip join??

Been following your exploits on pistonheads, spied the supra in the background. Was wondering when we'd see an update. Good work.

Im thinking more that the oem route is the one id choose for a manual swap. Polo's reconditioned boxes around 6k sound good. Ive seen one's dragged out of the canal for 6k!! Most other conversions sound dreadful at idle, notchy to drive and dont have the ratio's to suit our diffs.

Sorry i tell a lie, i replied before checkout on ebay. When i went back in, these were suggested. So i bought them instead. Says "toyota" in the title, so they'll be miles better than bmw ones....

Ive bought some from ebay, bmw fixings. 4.7mm diameter, 15mm washer diameter, 19mm long total. £4 for 10 Oem were £2 each, so they could stay where they were. I found that toyota used the same screws for a lot of toyota lights, mr2, rav 4 etc...

Thanks for the help, could i have a little more?? Ive got the clips from vehicleclips.co.uk, copies but really good. I now need to buy the screws. Could you measure one up for me? I just need the length from point to washer, diameter and washer diameter. Thanks again

Looks a great base there mate

Is this the retaining clip we speak of?

Yes, if you could take a photo for me, that would be greatly appreciated. The arch liner holes have been torn outwards towards the arch edge. So not a hole anymore really, more a c shaped cutout.

Do they use a special bumper retaining clip? Looked on nengun and part numbers show a screw and a bumper retaining clip? Just to clarify, its where the bumper meets the arch liner. There hasnt been a fixing there since i bought the car.

The front arch liners have damaged bolt holes. I was looking for a solution to keep it all bolted together. Was thinking of using a combo of washers, maybe serated to bite into the plastic and keep the bumper and liner attached. Any ideas?

Good work, i did see it on ebay/pistonheads etc.

I have a bonnet just like your old one, i am thinking of selling it but i do like it. If you want to pm over an offer i might be interested in letting it go.

That was its preffered hiding place 20210116_163726.mp4